Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Lee Terveen
Page Views: 1,956 total · 29/month
Shared By: Tane Owens on Apr 29, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


28 Opinions

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Description

This sustained route climbs left to right around an intimidating arete. Thought provoking onsight that doesn't really back off for about 90% of the route. Flows nicely once you find all the crucial holds around the arete. Getting creative with heel and toe hooks will help you find a couple OK rests.

Location

On the large obvious arete to the right of Hymalayback and Cranium Crack.

Protection

10 draws. It wouldn't be a bad idea to stick clip and extend the first draw.

Photos

Kirsten KDog
  5.11c
Kirsten KDog  
  5.11c
This is an incredible climb! I'm not sure if it just suited me and my partner's climbing styles, but we both agreed it is definitely in the top 3 sport climbs either of us has ever done. Long, flowy, sustained, techy and super-exposed feeling. All the holds are just good enough. Would be a tricky onsight. WOW!!! Jul 8, 2013
Bob Rotert  
 
Probably the coolest climb I did on my first visit to Spearfish. This route ROCKS!! Amazing postion, movement, and Rock. Tricky to onsight due to the hidden nature of the holds. Jul 13, 2015
Travis Bieber
Fort Collins, CO
 
Travis Bieber   Fort Collins, CO
 
Agreed, great climbing, tricky onsight. Best to stick clip the first bolt. Apr 26, 2017
D. Scott Clark
Boulder
 
D. Scott Clark   Boulder
 
Great route! Trust the lie-backs! Definitely want to stick clip the first bolt (not the cold shut!) and use an extended alpine draw to reduce drag. Jul 4, 2017
Franck Vee
  5.11c
Franck Vee  
  5.11c
Not sure what counts as the 1st draw - if it is the one that is really low & easy to clip, you can actually unclip it once you clip the 2nd one (probably easier to do with an alpine draw still).

For the moves themselves, I would give it 3 stars - it's really good, but I have seen better climbs around those grades in Spearfish. The position is insane however and you do get a great feeling climbing - also somewhat nervous & exposed even though it's well bolted and nice falls if it comes to that.

Rather even & sustained, a few harder moves here & there just to check you're still paying attention. Jul 29, 2017