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Routes in Indecent Exposure

Baby Toes S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Base Camp S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Big N' Tasty S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cone Stoned S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cranium Crack S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dicky Do S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dicky direct S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Eyes Without a Face S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Get Some! S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
High Altitude Huck* S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
High Times S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Himalayback S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Indecent Exposure S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Indirect Exposure S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Jet Scream S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ka-Pow! S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ka-Powzer! S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Naughty Little Pillar S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Oh What?! S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Pulmonary Suprema S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rollin' With a Bowline S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Sky Liner S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sound of Silence , The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Split Her S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Straight With An Eight S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Streaker S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tasting Time S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Teddy Bersheer S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tittie Twister S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
booshka S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Lee Terveen
Page Views: 1,723 total, 31/month
Shared By: Tane Owens on Apr 29, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


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Description

This sustained route climbs left to right around an intimidating arete. Thought provoking onsight that doesn't really back off for about 90% of the route. Flows nicely once you find all the crucial holds around the arete. Getting creative with heel and toe hooks will help you find a couple OK rests.

Location

On the large obvious arete to the right of Hymalayback and Cranium Crack.

Protection

10 draws. It wouldn't be a bad idea to stick clip and extend the first draw.

Photos

Franck Vee
  5.11c
Franck Vee  
  5.11c
Not sure what counts as the 1st draw - if it is the one that is really low & easy to clip, you can actually unclip it once you clip the 2nd one (probably easier to do with an alpine draw still).

For the moves themselves, I would give it 3 stars - it's really good, but I have seen better climbs around those grades in Spearfish. The position is insane however and you do get a great feeling climbing - also somewhat nervous & exposed even though it's well bolted and nice falls if it comes to that.

Rather even & sustained, a few harder moves here & there just to check you're still paying attention. Jul 29, 2017
D. Scott Clark
Boulder
 
D. Scott Clark   Boulder
 
Great route! Trust the lie-backs! Definitely want to stick clip the first bolt (not the cold shut!) and use an extended alpine draw to reduce drag. Jul 4, 2017
Travis Bieber
Spearfish, SD
 
Travis Bieber   Spearfish, SD
 
Agreed, great climbing, tricky onsight. Best to stick clip the first bolt. Apr 26, 2017
Bob Rotert  
 
Probably the coolest climb I did on my first visit to Spearfish. This route ROCKS!! Amazing postion, movement, and Rock. Tricky to onsight due to the hidden nature of the holds. Jul 13, 2015
Kirsten KDog
  5.11c
Kirsten KDog  
  5.11c
This is an incredible climb! I'm not sure if it just suited me and my partner's climbing styles, but we both agreed it is definitely in the top 3 sport climbs either of us has ever done. Long, flowy, sustained, techy and super-exposed feeling. All the holds are just good enough. Would be a tricky onsight. WOW!!! Jul 8, 2013