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Routes in The Danks

A Little Kush For The Final Push S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Beer Goggles S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Black and Tan S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Blowin' Kisses At Disinterested Bitches S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Blue Sky Blond S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Blueberry Train Wreck S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Blunt Arete, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Booze Cruize S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Coin Operated Killing Machine S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Faded S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Freakin' High S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
GoldShlonger S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hash It Out S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hippie Grenade S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Housed S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hurtin' for a Squirtin' S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
I Like These Plants S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
If We All Had a Bong Weed All Get Along S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jackinated S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Jessica Crimpson S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
JuggerMeister S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kim Gnardashian S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Laughing Grass S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Mary Jane S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Munchies S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
My Bitch Makes Pizza S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
My bitch ain't no lady S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Pabst Blue Ribbon S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Party Foul S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Party In My Pants S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Patina Aguilera S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pickin' Fights With Dykes On Bikes While Wearing Sexy Spandex Tights S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Puke Stain, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Roach, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Root Beer'd S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sausage Party S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Schmitt's Gay S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Screaming Barfies S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
She Ain't No Lady Unless She's 280 S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Smearnoff S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Smoke Like a Chimney S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stakes Are High And So Am I S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sticky Icky S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tellin' Charming Lies Between Thunder Thighs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
This Is Your Brain On Jugs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Too Drunk To Huck S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Transversetite S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Twist One Up S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Upchuck S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Jamison Coin
Page Views: 944 total, 14/month
Shared By: BBQ on Apr 27, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


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I'm In Love With Mary Jane!

This route is nothing more than a thugfest of huge moves to huge holds yet legitimately owns the distinction of being the pumpiest 5.11 in Spearfish canyon. Mary Jane is blonde, bullet proof, overhung as hell, and tends to fight back with every fiber of her stony soul.

This climb is one of the easier routes to locate but one of the hardest to get up. Expect to feel breathless during those big reaches to huge pockets on pumpy, overhung terrain that gets in your face and never lets up. Enjoy a hard start that requires you to navigate a minefield of what appear to be big holds that get slopey and greasy if you don't keep moving.

Pull a roof and take a puff! You might get one rest at the fifth bolt before you endure and enjoy a series of sick and not as slick jugs and huge holds on hopelessly overhung terrain till the anchors. Light this one up and be prepared to inhale!

At The Danks according to Cronin's new guidebook

Middle-most route at the The Upper Danks. It's probably easier to walk down canyon on the pavement to get there. Take the main trail that starts 420 feet down the highway from the parking lot.

Protection

Bring a dozen quickdraws and a willingness to take a beatdown.
Franck Vee
  5.11b
Franck Vee  
  5.11b
Amazing 11b - not really a single hard move, it's all about the pump. If you're going for the onsight, then get ready to just plow through as fast/efficiently as you can and hope your forearms can take the abuse.

If just looking for 11s to get into the grade, this is a great candidate as there are no stopper moves - if you take at any point you won't find it that hard at all.

Fun, sustained, even climb, must do at this wall. Jul 25, 2017