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Routes in The Danks

A Little Kush For The Final Push S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Beer Goggles S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Black and Tan S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Blowin' Kisses At Disinterested Bitches S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Blue Sky Blond S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Blueberry Train Wreck S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Blunt Arete, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Booze Cruize S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Coin Operated Killing Machine S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Faded S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Freakin' High S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
GoldShlonger S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hash It Out S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hippie Grenade S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Housed S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hurtin' for a Squirtin' S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
I Like These Plants S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
If We All Had a Bong Weed All Get Along S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jackinated S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Jessica Crimpson S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
JuggerMeister S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kim Gnardashian S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Laughing Grass S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Mary Jane S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Munchies S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
My Bitch Makes Pizza S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
My bitch ain't no lady S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Pabst Blue Ribbon S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Party Foul S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Party In My Pants S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Patina Aguilera S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pickin' Fights With Dykes On Bikes While Wearing Sexy Spandex Tights S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Puke Stain, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Roach, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Root Beer'd S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sausage Party S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Schmitt's Gay S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Screaming Barfies S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
She Ain't No Lady Unless She's 280 S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Smearnoff S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Smoke Like a Chimney S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stakes Are High And So Am I S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sticky Icky S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tellin' Charming Lies Between Thunder Thighs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
This Is Your Brain On Jugs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Too Drunk To Huck S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Transversetite S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Twist One Up S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Upchuck S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: j.Coin
Page Views: 110 total, 2/month
Shared By: jamison coin on Apr 22, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


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Description

Fun climbing on big holds

Location

Dank wall

Protection

8 draws

Photos

Franck Vee
  5.12a/b
Franck Vee  
  5.12a/b
The first part is not a push-over and an interesting balance between technical and pumpy moves. You need to think about what you're doing and find the right beta, but not too much otherwise it will get pumpy.

Then it's really all about the crux section - there are quite a few chalked up holds out there and I think there are a couple ways it can be done, none of which are easy at the grade. Feels like a real 12a crux - it would be easier to pull it off with a good rest just before launching into it.

Hint: there isn't a good rest just before launching into it.

Once the crux is dealt with, it's relatively smooth sailing to the anchor BUT you still need to keep your head toghether, because at that point you're utterly crushed from that stiff lower section + hard crux pulling. If you can keep it toghether however she's all yours! Jul 25, 2017