Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: j.Coin
Page Views: 162 total · 2/month
Shared By: jamison coin on Apr 22, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


15 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Fun climbing on big holds

Location

Dank wall

Protection

8 draws

Photos

Franck Vee
  5.12a/b
Franck Vee  
  5.12a/b
The first part is not a push-over and an interesting balance between technical and pumpy moves. You need to think about what you're doing and find the right beta, but not too much otherwise it will get pumpy.

Then it's really all about the crux section - there are quite a few chalked up holds out there and I think there are a couple ways it can be done, none of which are easy at the grade. Feels like a real 12a crux - it would be easier to pull it off with a good rest just before launching into it.

Hint: there isn't a good rest just before launching into it.

Once the crux is dealt with, it's relatively smooth sailing to the anchor BUT you still need to keep your head toghether, because at that point you're utterly crushed from that stiff lower section + hard crux pulling. If you can keep it toghether however she's all yours! Jul 25, 2017