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Routes in Euphamiah Beresford Memorial Wall a.k.a. "The Butt Rocks Wall"

1902 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bad Medicine S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bitch Fucking Rat Sticks! S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Corn Route S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crimptonight S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dr. Feelgood S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Euphamiah Beresford Memorial, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
July 4th S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Love in an Elevator S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Once Bitten, Twice Shy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Panama! S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rebel Yell S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rude Awakening S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
San Francisco, CA S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
She's Only 17 S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Simply Ravishing S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sink It and Wink It S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Steak & Tequila S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Mike McNeil
Page Views: 1,315 total, 13/month
Shared By: BBQ on Jul 3, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

This absolutely fabulous route will make you stand up and salute Spearfish Canyon. Starts on "Oh beautiful for spacious pockets" and works its way to "Amber waves of a roof" that might give the intermediate climber a WTF moment. But don't worry, just think about how to attack the problem, and go for it, the moves are all there and the protection is exactly where you want it. Then keep jug hauling up this "purple mountain majesty", and you will end up far "above the fruited plains". Has anyone ever sung the ENTIRE America The Beautiful song? It's freaking long! Just like this exceptional route.

Location: 8th route from the right.

July 4th is listed as route #10 on the Butt Rocks Wall in the Spearfish Canyon, The VC and Other Black Hills Limestone guidebook by Mike Cronin. Look for the blocky, black pillar that is detached from the wall and would put you about ten feet above the trail if you were to sit on it. Belay from the trail. The climber will have to navigate a steep, dirty slope (often through poison ivy) to get to the climb itself. Starting on top of the black pillar is common practice. It is recommended that you use a big rope bag or a tarp to protect yourself and keep your shoes clean as you navigate your way there.

Protection

Take at least thirteen quickdraws. There are 11 bolts and closed shut anchors you need to clip while moving up this beast.
Joe M
Beckley, wv
 
Joe M   Beckley, wv
 
This is definitely a must do route!!! There are now 11 bolts plus the anchors. Jun 5, 2010