Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Tom Moulin, January 2014
Page Views: 837 total · 41/month
Shared By: Mikeclimbs O'Connor on Apr 10, 2017
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin .

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Start under the roof on big flat edges. Big powerful moves up right to some good but questionable edges. Then back left. One hold near the second bolt looks like it may have broken, making the first crux reachy or really strenuous if you're short. Then pull onto the slab for a series of delicate and balancy moves on side pulls and under clings to gain more positive edges. Full on adventure arete climbing to yet another delicate slab move up higher, then jugs for the last 10 feet or so. Definitely a heads up route that will get the heart pumping! Really fun!

Location

Beautiful arete to the right of Chrystler Crack.

Protection

8 draws. One longer one for the last roof is helpful for rope drag.

Photos

Alex Reed
  5.12c PG13
Alex Reed  
  5.12c PG13
Bring A Stick Clip! Clipping the first bolt is very scary and you risk falling down the gulley. The bottom crux is protected well but is very stout for the grade. Getting many of the clips on this route can be scary and you risk taking some gnarly falls.
Great climbing, proud lead, but a scary climb. Nov 2, 2017
Mikeclimbs O'Connor  
  5.12b
The first bolt you can hang and clip from the ground (stacked boulders). Make a couple moves then clip the second bolt from good holds. Now you climb through the first crux which is protected very well by the second bolt. No need for a stick clip. There are some sections up higher where a fall might not be very fun but the climbing isn’t has hard in those sections. If you’ve made it through the first crux you can surely make it through the rest of the route. SO FUN! Go do it! Dec 6, 2017
Tane Owens
Denver, CO
Tane Owens   Denver, CO
I disagree with O'Conner. Never trust cheater stones when the consequence is to fall and pull your belayer down a 100' gully. Be smart and stick clip the first bolt before stepping on the cheater stones. Apr 18, 2018
Anybody have some further insight into finding this climb. We messed it up last year, and don't want to mess up the hike again. Topo map, solid directions, etc.? Apr 30, 2018