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Oct 20, 2025
Even though this climb starts on Eminent Domain and finishes on the final 20' of Cease and Desist, the two… View Comment
Apr 11, 2024
Good tick, Josh! It's awesome people are still enjoying this one. Fwiw I hadn't rehearsed any moves on this… View Comment
Dec 5, 2023
Hey David, I definitely clipped a bolt at the first roof when I was on the route 2 weeks ago. I know the gu… View Comment
Nov 19, 2023
Is it two stars or is it three? That all depends on how much you let a little bit of choss affect you... Be… View Comment
Nov 3, 2023
1 star start with a 4 star top. All the difficulty packed into 2.5 moves on what's otherwise a really good… View Comment
Oct 3, 2023
The crux is cryptic, but the boulder problems are closer to v5 into v7. The bolting is kinda weird but the… View Comment
Nov 26, 2021
This route has been recently rebolted and feels pretty safe on all the hardware. Fixed steel carabiner to l… View Comment
Nov 25, 2021
The original version of this route did not go into the small corner, but rather moved straight up from wher… View Comment
Mar 29, 2021
Spelled Zamphir like the Pan Flutist View Comment
Mar 10, 2021
Thanks again, Max! Guess it's time to give it that 4th star! And it's interesting you had to excavate that… View Comment
Dec 26, 2020
This route has a really fun, short crux and excellent 5.10 crack climbing above. If you're the first one on… View Comment
Nov 3, 2020
Max and I had a great email exchange continuing the conversation here, and I agree with him that a single b… View Comment
Oct 19, 2020
Is this route still a closed project? All the respect in the world to folks going through the right channel… View Comment
Mar 11, 2020
The bottom has always protected with fingers through hand sized cams in pretty obvious placements. Some of… View Comment
Mar 10, 2020
Update as of march 6th: The recently added bolts to the left of the glue ins were removed and patched. The… View Comment
Feb 16, 2020
There is no fixed pin protecting the crux. Carry micro cams or ball nuts. Maybe don't fall. View Comment
Sep 21, 2019
Suggesting 'Chamber of Secrets' as a less racially charged name for this one. View Comment
May 4, 2019
This route is two routes left of The Mighty Quinn. The route in between the two is Little Tokyo 13d. View Comment
Feb 15, 2019
This route sports some of the most fun movement around with very sustained holds and some cool problem solv… View Comment
Nov 11, 2018
4 bolts and anchors View Comment
Nov 5, 2017
Depending on who you talk to, this route is between 12c and 13a. The single crux sequence is complex and re… View Comment
Oct 8, 2017
For expediency, my partner and I linked pitches 1,2,3 via the normal direct dihedral, then linked the 5.11… View Comment
Apr 16, 2017
Feels markedly harder than other techy 12cs at Jackson, both guidebooks call it 12d, and im pretty sure the… View Comment
Apr 16, 2017
6 bolts and anchors. View Comment
Apr 16, 2017
Excellent rock climb, really about as much fun as you can have outside the red on a whole pitch of downpull… View Comment
Feb 18, 2017
This route is interesting in that the opening boulder requires a skill set akin to climbing on the Tuff--ma… View Comment
Feb 18, 2017
Even though I didn't finish this one while I was there, I liked the crux because the column gets wider… View Comment
Aug 14, 2016
Oh yea, for sure no bolts. The fact that it protects with its own specific, creative gear is what justifies… View Comment
Apr 22, 2016
Re: 7th bolt I didn't want to bolt the climb in a way that required the draws to be hung to clip everyth… View Comment
Feb 9, 2016
It doesn't seem like there was any lack of feet on the lower crux, which I felt was about v4/5. The upper c… View Comment
Dec 27, 2015
This route would likely deserve all four stars if only the line were a bit more independent and free of the… View Comment
Oct 13, 2015
This one's easy enough to set up off of Bold Line, Resuscitation, or possibly even White Trash extension. View Comment
Sep 17, 2015
Carry blue ball nuts for the upper part and the whole thing is really safe!! Also, the above mentioned… View Comment
Sep 8, 2015
The approach for this wall is only "relatively long" by lower gorge standards. Even with thick undergrowth,… View Comment
Sep 7, 2015
This thing felt harder than Try to be Hip and easier than Neutron star. Think it only makes sense to call i… View Comment
Sep 1, 2015
I ended up using double ropes and protecting the crux with a red ball nut and something in the blue metoliu… View Comment
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