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Routes in Major Wall

Banana Peel S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bananas on Acid S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bat out of Hell S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bon Bon T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Buttress Fly S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cactus Practice S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Captain Blueberry S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chris's Route (name will change) S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Demon, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Devil's Plaything S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Hurt Me Not S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Juckets & Bugs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Liberace's Anus S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Limp Traddy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Major Chingadera S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Major Major S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Major Raspberry S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Milo Mindblender S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Pimp Caddy S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Pimp Daddy S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Pinche Wey S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Prickly Proctologist S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ramp, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
She Can Bolt S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Zee Wicked Bulge AKA:Puff Daddy S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: FA: TR - Pete Zoller and Curt Fry, 1991, lead - Matt Samet, 1991
Page Views: 2,386 total, 18/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Dec 10, 2006
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

A Socorro Classic! Make powerful sequential moves up a clean overhung wall. Start with easy moves up to a huge Hueco and clip the first bolt. From here get ready to crank. Angle left passing the second bolt and snag a rest at the large hueco, the only good hold on the route. Clip the third bolt and angle up and right to the 4th bolt. Pull the crux moves and it's over. Take a nap on the ledge and make a few easy moves past the 5th bolt to the anchors.

Location

Between Bats out of Hell and Captain Blueberry.

Protection

5 Bolts + Anchors

Photos

Blake Allen Green  
  5.13a
It doesn't seem like there was any lack of feet on the lower crux, which I felt was about v4/5. The upper crux is probably solid v5 for taller folk, and i feel it might be at least a letter grade harder to do the last two moves in sequence for people under 5'8" - 5'6". The moves on this one are very sustained and high quality. You could also avoid the rest jug way out left and increase the difficulty a fair bit. I added steel lower biners concurrent with other biners going in at the crag, cleaning should be straight forward now. Feb 9, 2016
djkyote  
I left two oval biners on the chains a year ago and now they are gone. I know new mexicans think that carabiners at chains are 'booty', but you are really just stealing from yourself. I would have thought that a classic 13 would see more respect from the community. hope you find a good use for them: they are 20 years old and ovals. good job.

and i agree, the start is definitely more difficult since said key foothold broke. Mar 5, 2012
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
 
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
 
I've heard the same thing about the boken foothold. I think it broke in the last year or two. I would have guessed the bottom crux to be V5 when I did it so if it is V6/V7 now then I would think it would be solid 13a.

Good luck on the finger, finger injuries suck. Mine has been injured since December... Mar 1, 2012
I heard a key foothold broke off at the lower crux (between the 2 jugs at the bottom of the route), and based on my attempts to find something to smear my stealth onyx resoles on I can believe that. Not sure when the alleged holdbreaking occurred, but DTP, if you climbed the route beforehand that may explain the controversy. Unfortunately I may never know how hard this is because I injured an A4 pulley (right ring finger) trying to work through that boulder problem. I max out at the cusp of V6/7 and it seemed to me to be just beyond my redline. Maybe if I spent more time on it I'd figure out an easier way through, but that won't likely happen this season >: I Mar 1, 2012
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
 
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
 
I've taken a lot of good natured abuse over the years for posting this as 12d on here. Here is the logic behind my posting of this at the 12d grade.

  • I had heard this was 13a if your tall, 12d if your short. I'm 5'6" so not especially tall.
  • When I did this I had never climbed a 13a, only 2 12d's Rucksack Wanderer (Maple) and Mad Hatter (Tower), I was able to do this in fewer goes than both the previous climbs. 2 try's on TR with beta from Ruben, and 1 try on lead for the redpoint, over 2 climbing days.
  • I wasn't and still aren't as strong on vertical face as I am on steeper more endurance oriented lines.
  • NM having a soft reputation annoys me, so I tend to grade things on the stiff side :)

Based off of this I didn't see how it could have been 13a. I'm pretty sure I clipped the second bolt (draws were pre-hung), and I remember the 4th clip, at the small roof, being really hard as well. Feb 27, 2012
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
  5.13a
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
  5.13a
I had been told when I first did this route that it was 5.12d if you pre clipped the second and 5.13a if you did not. Really seems kind of silly to be splitting hairs, FWIW the 4th clip is harder than the second anyway. Feb 26, 2012
Pete Zoller and Curt Fry had TR'ed it and wrote 5.12c/d at the base in chalk (spring 1991), and so I asked around all over Albuquerque and Socorro if anyone knew who the mystery topropers were. The timing was funny - I'd scoped the line one weekend, decided I wanted to come back and bolt it the next, and in the interim, on one of the weekdays, those guys - on a road trip down from Colorado - toproped it, wrote the grade in the hopes that someone might bolt it, then headed back home.

I got on it on TR that next weekend and proceeded to break off a jug flake in the middle of the crux, so figured if it had been 5.12c/d before that, now it was 5.13a. Dunno. That's what I graded it. Seems to be a slash grade, a 5.12d/13a, sort of like The Beast at Rifle, depending on whom you ask.

So, there you go re. the grade. Have fun! Jan 25, 2010