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Routes in (2) Wildfire Wall

Bad Finger T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bad Finger Extended (BFE) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Body Karate S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Caning, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cornercopia T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crime Wave T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Cry Some More (Extension) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cry of the Poor T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Do Not Resuscitate (DNR) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Gruff T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Iron Cross T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Just Say Yes S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Karate Kid S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Kung Fu Hustle S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Lion of Judah S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mad Man T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Money for Nothing S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Neutral Zone T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
On The Road T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Out Of Darkness T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Passover T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Pure Palm S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Resuscitation S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rim Job T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sidewalk Chalk T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Soft Touch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Split Decision T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Titus T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trump Slap S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Try To Be Hip S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
White Trash S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wildfire T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Yellow Belt T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Blake Green, September 2015
Page Views: 681 total · 23/month
Shared By: Blake Allen Green on Sep 27, 2015
Admins: Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

You & This Route


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Description

You're going to need physical and mental agility for this one! Start up the first 10-15 feet of Bold Line with a high stick clip, follow a row of crimps right to a slot and the second bolt. From here, the next 30 feet of climbing are deceptively pumpy and all the holds face the wrong direction. At the roof, move left and clip the bolt on Bold Line before a good rest. With your wits about you, pull left out of the rest immediately onto a compression column. Multiple technical cruxes highlight the next few bolts of climbing, and reasonable holds disappear just in time to create some of the most complex and wild sequences in the Lower Gorge. Finish up easy terrain to a high set of fixed steel biners on a ledge.

Location

Starts on Bold Line, right of Rescusitation.

Protection

9 bolts, fixed steel biners at anchor. Stick clip the first bolt.

Photos

This route would likely deserve all four stars if only the line were a bit more independent and free of the standing (no hands) rest. Even so, the crux is likely as perplexing and technical as it gets in the Lower Gorge, and that's definitely saying something.

All the bolts were placed to maintain the integrity of Boldline, which was originally the only line through this section of wall for decades. Thus, the first bolt on both Body Karate and the direct start are stick clip mandatory. The bolt placement moving over the roof and into the standing rest replaced an ancient, thin, bent piton.

Mad props to Peder Groseth for sending the direct start in summer of '17 and establishing the hardest route in the gorge, as well as Jess Groseth for sending the remaining finish (I think the same week) on the right column out of the standing rest for yet another fun compression. Dec 27, 2015

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