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Areas in Little River Canyon

Concave, The 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Jungle Gym/Gray Wall 0 / 14 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14
Lizard Wall 0 / 13 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13
Ninja Wall 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Toomsuba 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Tourist Wall 0 / 17 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 17
Elevation: 938 ft
GPS: 34.359, -85.668 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 23,356 total · 1,788/month
Shared By: TylerKC on Dec 18, 2016 with updates
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough
Getting weather forecast...

Description

Little River Canyon National Preserve is a classic and historic climbing area located in Fort Payne AL.

Previously kept under the radar during the 80's/90's Little River Canyon has since been exposed for the past 10 years or so and thus featured in every major magazine to the sport.

The climbing here is steep and thuggy at times as well as technical thin and vert. The sandstone is of grand quality and the season is practically year round.

For a southern hardman LRC is not to be missed especially the famous "Concave" wall with it's collection of classic lines in the .13-.14 range.

Getting There

From Fort Payne, follow AL-35 14 miles to
"Little River Canyon National Preserve"

From here there is a two lane road with pulloffs at multiple spots for whatever wall you wish to access.

Camping

For primitive camping, check out True Adventure Sports. This smaller campground is right next to Canyon Rim Road, about a mile and a half from Unshackled Wall. They have a pit toilet and running water.

For those seeking more amenities and quicker access to the northeastern walls of the canyon, check out Little River RV Park & Campground [link: littleriverrvpark.com]. It's more expensive than TAS, but they have hot showers, wifi and the owners are climber friendly. This campground is located next to AL-35, so bring earplugs.

63 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Little River Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Obsession
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ruhama
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bitless
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lemonade
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rocktoberfest
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Out of Africa
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Grasshopper
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Toomsuba
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tusk
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Lion
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Robyn's Route
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Heart of Darkness
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Silverback
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Hooligans
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
The Word
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Obsession Jungle Gym/Gray Wall 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
Ruhama Ninja Wall 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Bitless Tourist Wall > Crazy House 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Lemonade Lizard Wall 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Rocktoberfest Tourist Wall > Rocktoberfest 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Out of Africa Jungle Gym/Gray Wall 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Grasshopper Ninja Wall 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Toomsuba Tourist Wall > Toomsuba 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Tusk Jungle Gym/Gray Wall 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Lion Jungle Gym/Gray Wall 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Robyn's Route Lizard Wall 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Heart of Darkness Jungle Gym/Gray Wall 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Silverback Concave 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Hooligans Concave 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
The Word Concave 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Little River Canyon »

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Photos

Jeremy Hand
Northern VA
Jeremy Hand   Northern VA
Please Garrett! This place is a way too over looked gem! Dec 2, 2017
TylerKC
Fayetteville Arkansas
TylerKC   Fayetteville Arkansas  
I couldn't find any reason for it to not be allowed here. Already in 3 guidebooks, one of them solely based upon the canyon itself. Dec 19, 2016
Looking to visit in a few weeks, is there a local vendor that carries the guidebook? Thanks. Jan 4, 2018
Garrett Garner-Wells   Denver, CO
I'm happy to help update additional areas if the community decides it's time for LRC to live on MP.

The new guidebook looks fantastic! Does anyone have an update on whether it's available? The Rockery website still says it won't ship until 10/1/2016. Jan 5, 2017
BirminghamBen
Birmingham, AL
BirminghamBen   Birmingham, AL
I don't disagree, but that was the excuse the last three times LRC was posted (and deleted) off of MP. Let's see if you get some nasty private messages or if the page goes away quietly. If not, in 90 days, I'll edit this post to free up room for usable content.

Little River Canyon is an awesome place with fantastic sport climbing. There even may be some harrowing trad routes down in the canyon. In that it is now published and as the park has expanded, I believe more resources will come to the area...

Beyond the climbing, I believe the area to be one of the most scenic in all of of the east coast and have enjoyed exploring from one end to the other over 30 years... Even jumped off of the main falls....twice.

Dec 21, 2016
BirminghamBen
Birmingham, AL
BirminghamBen   Birmingham, AL
Oh no....here we go again. Maybe this page will be allowed to stand this time. Dec 19, 2016

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