Elevation: 938 ft
GPS: 34.359, -85.668 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 80,176 total · 2,728/month
Shared By: TylerKC on Dec 18, 2016 with improvements by Garrett Garner-Wells
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough
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Description

Little River Canyon National Preserve is a classic and historic climbing area located in Fort Payne AL.

Previously kept under the radar during the 80's/90's Little River Canyon has since been exposed for the past 10 years or so and thus featured in every major magazine to the sport.

The climbing here is steep and thuggy at times as well as technical thin and vert. The sandstone is of grand quality and the season is practically year round.

For a southern hardman LRC is not to be missed especially the famous "Concave" wall with it's collection of classic lines in the .13-.14 range.

Getting There

From Fort Payne, follow AL-35 14 miles to
"Little River Canyon National Preserve"

From here there is a two lane road with pulloffs at multiple spots for whatever wall you wish to access.

Camping

For primitive camping, check out True Adventure Sports. This smaller campground is right next to Canyon Rim Road, about a mile and a half from Unshackled Wall. They have a pit toilet and running water.

For those seeking more amenities and quicker access to the northeastern walls of the canyon, check out Little River RV Park & Campground [link: littleriverrvpark.com]. It's more expensive than TAS, but they have hot showers, wifi and the owners are climber friendly. This campground is located next to AL-35, so bring earplugs.

111 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Little River Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 9
Ruhama
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 37
Lemonade
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 17
Bitless
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 15
Rocktoberfest
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 4
Fight Club
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 14
Toomsuba
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 5
Steel Magnolia
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 10
Lion
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 23
Robyn's Route
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 7
Majosha
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 4
Porter's Arete
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 6
Long Doug
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 4
Hang Me
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 7
Hooligans
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 9
The Word
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Ruhama Ninja Wall
 9
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Lemonade Lizard Wall
 37
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Bitless Tourist Wall > Crazy House
 17
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Rocktoberfest Tourist Wall > Rocktoberfest
 15
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Fight Club Toomsuba
 4
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Toomsuba Toomsuba
 14
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Steel Magnolia Brandnewbia
 5
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Lion Jungle Gym/Grey Wall
 10
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Robyn's Route Lizard Wall
 23
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Majosha Toomsuba
 7
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Porter's Arete Jungle Gym/Grey Wall
 4
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Long Doug Lizard Wall
 6
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Hang Me Toomsuba
 4
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Hooligans Concave
 7
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
The Word Concave
 9
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Little River Canyon »

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Photos

BirminghamBen
Birmingham, AL
BirminghamBen   Birmingham, AL
Oh no....here we go again. Maybe this page will be allowed to stand this time. Dec 19, 2016
TylerKC
Fayetteville Arkansas
TylerKC   Fayetteville Arkansas  
I couldn't find any reason for it to not be allowed here. Already in 3 guidebooks, one of them solely based upon the canyon itself. Dec 19, 2016
BirminghamBen
Birmingham, AL
BirminghamBen   Birmingham, AL
I don't disagree, but that was the excuse the last three times LRC was posted (and deleted) off of MP. Let's see if you get some nasty private messages or if the page goes away quietly. If not, in 90 days, I'll edit this post to free up room for usable content.

Little River Canyon is an awesome place with fantastic sport climbing. There even may be some harrowing trad routes down in the canyon. In that it is now published and as the park has expanded, I believe more resources will come to the area...

Beyond the climbing, I believe the area to be one of the most scenic in all of of the east coast and have enjoyed exploring from one end to the other over 30 years... Even jumped off of the main falls....twice.

Dec 21, 2016
Garrett Garner-Wells   Denver, CO
I'm happy to help update additional areas if the community decides it's time for LRC to live on MP.

The new guidebook looks fantastic! Does anyone have an update on whether it's available? The Rockery website still says it won't ship until 10/1/2016. Jan 5, 2017
Jeremy Hand
Northern VA
Jeremy Hand   Northern VA
Please Garrett! This place is a way too over looked gem! Dec 2, 2017
Elvis Kucevic
Whitefield, NH
Elvis Kucevic   Whitefield, NH
Looking to visit in a few weeks, is there a local vendor that carries the guidebook? Thanks. Jan 4, 2018
Catherine Rioux
Toronto, ON
Catherine Rioux   Toronto, ON
Will be visiting in 3 weeks for the first time. Where can I buy the Dixie Cragger Atlas (3rd ed)? I don't want to order online (I live in Canada). We are going to drive through Chattanooga. Is there a place over there where I can buy it? Many thanks!! Mar 18, 2019