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Elevation: 1,074 ft 327 m
GPS: 34.32235, -85.67426
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 22,006 total · 252/month
Shared By: Andy Riley on Oct 14, 2018
Admins: Stonyman Killough, Luke Cornejo, saxfiend
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Description Suggest change

The home of the classic 'Unshackled' (13b), 'Movie Star' (5.12b) and several other great routes varying in grade and quality. The wall gets sun until afternoon, shade times depend on the part of the wall and season of the year.

Getting There Suggest change

From the triangle park continue down south on Canyon Rim Road for about 3.5 miles. You'll get to a pull off parking area on the left side of the road, park here. From here the total approach time is about 3 minutes. Somewhere in the middle/leftish side of the parking lot is a trail that heads down 20 feet to a short but wide chimney climb down into a gulley. Continue down the gulley until you are in the canyon. Can be a bit difficult to get large dogs down to the bottom of the chimney, but it is doable. The unshackled main wall is to the right around the corner, and several other good routes are to the left.

27 Total Climbs

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Location: Unshackled Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Unshackled

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 11
● Gumby Bears
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 37
● Dogtown
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 27
● Shepatitis
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 30
● Exploding Boy
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 19
● Lone Wolf aka Redneck Girls in Love
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 16
● Ron's Route
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 9
● Mini Fridge
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 10
● Hot Taaka
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 34
● Iron Mike
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 34
● Movie Star
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 4
● Zamphir
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 6
● Area of Doubt
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 4
● Big Cat
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 17
● Unshackled
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Gumby Bears
 11
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
● Dogtown
 37
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
● Shepatitis
 27
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
● Exploding Boy
 30
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
● Lone Wolf aka Redneck Girls…
 19
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
● Ron's Route
 16
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
● Mini Fridge
 9
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
● Hot Taaka
 10
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
● Iron Mike
 34
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
● Movie Star
 34
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
● Zamphir
 4
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
● Area of Doubt
 6
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
● Big Cat
 4
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
● Unshackled
 17
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Unshackled »

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Hot Takka
Hot Takka
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