Elevation: 1,074 ft
GPS: 34.322, -85.674 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 10,223 total · 338/month
Shared By: Andy Riley on Oct 14, 2018
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

Description

The home of the classic 'Unshackled' (13b), 'Movie Star' (5.12b) and several other great routes varying in grade and quality. The wall gets sun until afternoon, shade times depend on the part of the wall and season of the year.

Getting There

From the triangle park continue down south on Canyon Rim Road for about 3.5 miles. You'll get to a pull off parking area on the left side of the road, park here. From here the total approach time is about 3 minutes. Somewhere in the middle/leftish side of the parking lot is a trail that heads down 20 feet to a short but wide chimney climb down into a gulley. Continue down the gulley until you are in the canyon. Can be a bit difficult to get large dogs down to the bottom of the chimney, but it is doable. The unshackled main wall is to the right around the corner, and several other good routes are to the left.

17 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Unshackled Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Unshackled

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 15
Dogtown
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 6
Shepatitis
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 11
Exploding Boy
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 3
Ron's route
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 3
Hot Takka
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 15
Iron Mike
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 15
Movie Star
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 4
Area of Doubt
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 6
Unshackled
Sport
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
 3
Back in the Day
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Dogtown
 15
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Shepatitis
 6
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Exploding Boy
 11
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Ron's route
 3
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Hot Takka
 3
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Iron Mike
 15
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Movie Star
 15
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Area of Doubt
 4
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Unshackled
 6
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Back in the Day
 3
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Unshackled »

Sun & Shade

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

0 Comments