Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,585 total · 45/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Mar 5, 2007
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


152 Opinions

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Description

The intimidation factor on this nice sport route is the big roof near the top. If you're smart, you'll use the spacious ledge about half-way up to regain some energy for the pumpy finish.

Climb the steep face on good holds past three bolts to a ledge. Trend left, following the bolted line, then move right to a roof. A well-placed bolt protects the final moves to pull the roof on nice jugs.

NOTE: Oyster is the subject of some confusion with neighboring routes on the south side of Holiday block. In the Dixie Cragger's Atlas, the listing for Gravy Train actually describes Oyster, while the listing for Oyster should be labeled as Rabies (5.11a). Some consider Oyster a retrobolt of the trad line Gravy Train, but the two climbs, while close in proximity, are separate routes with distinctly different climbing character.

Location

Starts at the left end of the south side of Holiday Block, just right of Gravy Train. Lower off/rap from anchors.

Protection

Eight bolts; ring anchors at the top.

Photos

Gus Fontenot
Alabama
 
Gus Fontenot   Alabama
 
this route goes on gear too. If you do it trad, its called "The Real Oyster." Oct 23, 2007
Brad "Stonyman" Killough   Alabama  
I've done this route 20 or so times and I didn't realize it to go trad. That's awesome!! Nov 13, 2008
saxfiend
Decatur, GA
  5.10a
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
  5.10a
Finally got around to leading Oyster after all these years. Really nice climbing! The rest ledge is a real arm-saver. May 31, 2009
Cres Simpson
Cambridge, MA
  5.10a
Cres Simpson   Cambridge, MA
  5.10a
Great late afternoon climb in cooler weather -- this route gets sun all afternoon.

More 5.8+/5.9ish except for pulling the roof at the top, which felt like a solid 10a move.

Definitely an underrated Sand Rock route -- great views from the top and a solid climb. Jan 28, 2012
Brandon.Phillips
Portola, CA
  5.10a
Brandon.Phillips   Portola, CA
  5.10a
This is the farthest left sport route on this side of the wall. Agreed that it was 5.8/9 with a couple of 10a moves thrown in at the top. I would like to try it on gear. Nov 2, 2015