Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Elevation: 787 ft 240 m
GPS: 42.07016, -73.06375
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 83,202 total · 1,844/month
Shared By: sara mcfadden on Oct 2, 2021 · Updates
Admins: sara mcfadden, Old Timer, jim.dangle, Joe M
Warning Access Issue: Endangered Species DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

From https://climbgneiss.org/hanging-mountain/:

Hanging Mountain lays in the small, southwestern Massachusetts hamlet of Sandisfield, just three miles from the Connecticut border. The WMCC owns 14 acres of mountainside and jointly manages the area with Connecticut’s Ragged Mountain Foundation through a Joint Stewardship Committee. The RMF split the purchase of this parcel with the WMCC, creating the only climber owned area in Southern New England.

This approximately 1000-foot-long series of southeast-facing cliffs, ranging from approximately 60 to 240 feet in height, contains granite, granitic gneiss, and large pockets of friable schist. As the name may suggest, portions of Hanging Mountain can be unstable, at times shedding significant amounts of stone: wear a helmet, especially when belaying, and expect to encounter at least some loose rock.

Please check out the WMCC website for more information.

Please respect the following guidelines for visitors:

  • properly dispose of human and animal waste (use a wag bag and pack it out)
  • remain on the trail in order to protect sensitive species
  • keep dogs on a leash at all times
  • no hammocks (hammock use blocks the trail and causes damage to vegetation)
  • no drones - email wmcc@climbgneiss.org for special permission
  • keep group size small and don't monopolize climbs 
  • maximum group size is eight people. Email wmcc@climbgneiss.org two or more weeks in advance for special permission for larger group sizes. This applies to ALL groups, both guided and non-guided groups, formal or informal. (5 Tips for Climbing in Groups)
  • guiding is allowed, but advanced permission is needed for guided groups over eight people

Getting There Suggest change

The parking is located at 43 South Main Street, Sandisfield, MA. Google Map to Hanging Mountain Parking Lot.

The primary parking area and the trailhead can be found at the edge of the talus; the shoulder of the access road offers additional spots. Please park considerately, and make the $5.00 suggested donation to the “iron ranger.” There is a designated accessible parking space for visitors with disabilities.

A smaller, spill-over lot can be found on Army Corps of Engineers (federal, public property) land just across both Route 8 and the Farmington River. Exit our property, turn left (north) on Route 8, cross the river, and take a quick right. Cross a steel bridge, and take another quick right into a small, circular parking area. Again, please park considerately.

Guidebook

Suggest change

A great guidebook for the cliff is available on gunk's app

A PDF of the guidebook is available to download for free: drive.google.com/file/d/1p0…

The developers put a lot of time and effort into creating this great free resource and ask that users take the time to give feedback on the provided forms so there is direct communication between authors and climbers. Also, when making entries on this website PLEASE DO NOT COPY ENTRIES FROM THE GUIDEBOOK. USE YOUR OWN DESCRIPTIONS.

Updates will be made regularly. Please do not use any of this feedback for Mountain Project as this is being made available for free and can be regulated for Justice Diversity Equity Inclusion components by the WMCC. Please share input about routes at: tinyurl.com/RouteFeedbackHangingMountain.

We are open to feedback about implicit bias in route names. If you have input on how to help you or someone else feel more welcome and safe, please submit input at: https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSfY8Rt9DY_VsE-ai-v8CTt_avcVSrrDNslrZCpjy8m-tNiPxg/viewform.

Trails

Suggest change

The main access trail is located beyond the kiosk at the end of the parking lot. A map of the area is posted on the kiosk and signs clearly indicate each crag. It is of utmost importance that visitors stay on established trails to protect endangered and protected species.

Dogs

Suggest change

Dogs are welcome, but PLEASE KEEP THEM LEASHED to prevent them from destroying endangered plants.

MESA Review

Suggest change

Most of the 14-acre property at Hanging Mountain has been designated as Priority Habitat by MassWildlife’s Natural Heritage & Endangered Species Program (NHESP). As a result, Hanging Mountain and any work performed there is heavily regulated to ensure that the WMCC is in compliance with the Massachusetts Endangered Species Act and Wetlands Protection Act.

More information about NHESP can be found here.

Falcon Closure

Suggest change

The WMCC, in accordance to the wishes of Massachusetts Fish and Wildlife, maintains a voluntary, seasonal closure of selected routes to enable nesting pairs of Peregrine Falcons to hatch and raise their offspring in peace.

The second and third pitch of the Squirrel wall will be closed  February 15th – June 27th every year. The first pitch, the Acorn Face, remains open. There will be clear signage at the cliff indicating which routes are closed; please obey all signage.

Land Acknowledgment

Suggest change

It is with gratitude and humility that we acknowledge that we are learning, speaking and gathering on the ancestral homelands of the Muhheaconneok, the Indigenous peoples of this land.

Despite tremendous hardship in being forced from here, today their community resides in Wisconsin and is known as the Stockbridge-Munsee Community.

We pay honor and respect to their ancestors, past and present, as we commit to building a more inclusive and equitable space for all.

Safe Space

Suggest change

The WMCC wants this land to feel like a safe space for all visitors, including but not limited to BIPOC and LGBTIQ individuals, people with disabilities, people of all genders, all bodies, all abilities, and all neurotypes.

If you do not feel safe, please contact the WMCC at wmcc@climbgneiss.org and we will work to change that.

Route Development Protocol

Suggest change

The WMCC owns 14 acres of mountainside at Hanging Mountain and jointly manages the area with Connecticut’s Ragged Mountain Foundation through a Joint Stewardship Committee. Due to the presence of endangered plants on and around the cliff NO ROUTE DEVELOPMENT OR TRAIL WORK SHALL BE DONE WITHOUT THE EXPLICIT APPROVAL AND SUPERVISION OF THIS COMMITTEE. Violation of this can result in the closure of the entire cliff by the state. A route development protocol is in place and must be followed at all times.

80 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Hanging Mountain Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Hanging Mountain

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 75
Nevertheless
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 75
Stone By Stone
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 63
Cloud Nine
Trad
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 98
Rising Tide
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 27
Higher Ground
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 69
Trouble Weighs a Ton
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 101
Radiant Sky
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 103
Transcendentalism
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 7
Wholey Logic (P2)
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 9
Fever Dreams
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 47
Psychedelic Honey
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 14
Eminent Domain
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 35
Skywalker
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 42
Drawn and Quartered
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 4
Disco Pants
Sport 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Nevertheless Progressive Buttress
 75
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Sport
Stone By Stone Cloud Buttress
 75
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Cloud Nine Cloud Buttress
 63
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Rising Tide Grotto
 98
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Higher Ground Grotto
 27
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Trouble Weighs a Ton Cloud Buttress
 69
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Radiant Sky Acorn Face/Squirrel Wall
 101
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Transcendentalism Cloud Buttress
 103
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Wholey Logic (P2) Grotto
 7
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Fever Dreams Cloud Buttress
 9
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
Psychedelic Honey Cloud Buttress
 47
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Eminent Domain Corps Wall
 14
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Skywalker Cloud Buttress
 35
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Drawn and Quartered Cloud Buttress
 42
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Disco Pants Grotto
 4
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Hanging Mountain »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

loading