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Elevation: 787 ft 240 m
GPS: 42.07016, -73.06375
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Shared By: sara pax on Oct 2, 2021 · Updates
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Warning Access Issue: Endangered Species DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

From https://climbgneiss.org/hanging-mountain/:

Hanging Mountain lays in the small, southwestern Massachusetts hamlet of Sandisfield, just three miles from the Connecticut border. The WMCC owns 14 acres of mountainside and jointly manages the area with Connecticut’s Ragged Mountain Foundation through a Joint Stewardship Committee. The RMF split the purchase of this parcel with the WMCC, creating the only climber owned area in Southern New England.

This approximately 1000-foot-long series of southeast-facing cliffs, ranging from approximately 60 to 240 feet in height, contains granite, granitic gneiss, and large pockets of friable schist. As the name may suggest, portions of Hanging Mountain can be unstable, at times shedding significant amounts of stone: wear a helmet, especially when belaying, and expect to encounter at least some loose rock.

Please check out the WMCC website for more information.

If you plan to visit Hanging Mountain, the WMCC asks that you please respect the following guidelines for visitors:

  • properly dispose of human and animal waste (use a wag bag and pack it out)
  • remain on the trail in order to protect sensitive species
  • keep dogs on a leash at all times
  • no drones – email wmcc@climbgneiss.org to ask for special permission
  • keep group size small and don’t monopolize climbs (5 Tips for Climbing in Groups)
  • no hammocks (hammock use blocks the trail and causes damage to vegetation)

Getting There Suggest change

The parking is located at 43 South Main Street, Sandisfield, MA. Google Map to Hanging Mountain Parking Lot.

The primary parking area and the trailhead can be found at the edge of the talus; the shoulder of the access road offers additional spots. Please park considerately, and make the $5.00 suggested donation to the “iron ranger.” There is a designated accessible parking space for visitors with disabilities.

A smaller, spill-over lot can be found on Army Corps of Engineers (federal, public property) land just across both Route 8 and the Farmington River. Exit our property, turn left (north) on Route 8, cross the river, and take a quick right. Cross a steel bridge, and take another quick right into a small, circular parking area. Again, please park considerately.

Guidebook

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A great guidebook for the cliff is available on gunk's app

A PDF of the guidebook is available to download for free: drive.google.com/file/d/1p0…

The developers put a lot of time and effort into creating this great free resource and ask that users take the time to give feedback on the provided forms so there is direct communication between authors and climbers. Also, when making entries on this website PLEASE DO NOT COPY ENTRIES FROM THE GUIDEBOOK. USE YOUR OWN DESCRIPTIONS.

Updates will be made regularly. Please do not use any of this feedback for Mountain Project as this is being made available for free and can be regulated for Justice Diversity Equity Inclusion components by the WMCC. Please share input about routes at: tinyurl.com/RouteFeedbackHangingMountain.

We are open to feedback about implicit bias in route names. If you have input on how to help you or someone else feel more welcome and safe, please submit input at: https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSfY8Rt9DY_VsE-ai-v8CTt_avcVSrrDNslrZCpjy8m-tNiPxg/viewform.

Trails

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The main access trail is located beyond the kiosk at the end of the parking lot. A map of the area is posted on the kiosk and signs clearly indicate each crag. It is of utmost importance that visitors stay on established trails to protect endangered and protected species.

Dogs

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Dogs are welcome, but PLEASE KEEP THEM LEASHED to prevent them from destroying endangered plants.

MESA Review

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Most of the 14-acre property at Hanging Mountain has been designated as Priority Habitat by MassWildlife’s Natural Heritage & Endangered Species Program (NHESP). As a result, Hanging Mountain and any work performed there is heavily regulated to ensure that the WMCC is in compliance with the Massachusetts Endangered Species Act and Wetlands Protection Act.

More information about NHESP can be found here.

Falcon Closure

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The WMCC, in accordance to the wishes of Massachusetts Fish and Wildlife, maintains a voluntary, seasonal closure of selected routes to enable nesting pairs of Peregrine Falcons to hatch and raise their offspring in peace.

The closure is in effect from February 15th – June15th every year.

Land Acknowledgment

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It is with gratitude and humility that we acknowledge that we are learning, speaking and gathering on the ancestral homelands of the Muhheaconneok, the Indigenous peoples of this land.

Despite tremendous hardship in being forced from here, today their community resides in Wisconsin and is known as the Stockbridge-Munsee Community.

We pay honor and respect to their ancestors, past and present, as we commit to building a more inclusive and equitable space for all.

Safe Space

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The WMCC wants this land to feel like a safe space for all visitors, including but not limited to BIPOC and LGBTIQ individuals, people with disabilities, people of all genders, all bodies, all abilities, and all neurotypes.

If you do not feel safe, please contact the WMCC JDEI Committee at JDEI@Climbgneiss.org, and we will work to change that.

Route Development Protocol

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The WMCC owns 14 acres of mountainside at Hanging Mountain and jointly manages the area with Connecticut’s Ragged Mountain Foundation through a Joint Stewardship Committee. Due to the presence of endangered plants on and around the cliff NO ROUTE DEVELOPMENT OR TRAIL WORK SHALL BE DONE WITHOUT THE EXPLICIT APPROVAL AND SUPERVISION OF THIS COMMITTEE. Violation of this can result in the closure of the entire cliff by the state. A route development protocol is in place and must be followed at all times.

76 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Hanging Mountain

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 70
Nevertheless
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 71
Stone By Stone
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 58
Cloud Nine
Trad
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 90
Rising Tide
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 26
Higher Ground
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 65
Trouble Weighs a Ton
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 93
Radiant Sky
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 96
Transcendentalism
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 6
Wholey Logic (P2)
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 40
Psychedelic Honey
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 7
Fever Dreams
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 9
Eminent Domain
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 29
Skywalker
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 38
Drawn and Quartered
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 4
Disco Pants
Sport 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Nevertheless Progressive Buttress
 70
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Sport
Stone By Stone Cloud Buttress
 71
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Cloud Nine Cloud Buttress
 58
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Rising Tide Grotto
 90
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Higher Ground Grotto
 26
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Trouble Weighs a Ton Cloud Buttress
 65
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Radiant Sky Acorn Face/Squirrel Wall
 93
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Transcendentalism Cloud Buttress
 96
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Wholey Logic (P2) Grotto
 6
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Psychedelic Honey Cloud Buttress
 40
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Fever Dreams Cloud Buttress
 7
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
Eminent Domain Corps Wall
 9
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Skywalker Cloud Buttress
 29
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Drawn and Quartered Cloud Buttress
 38
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Disco Pants Grotto
 4
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Hanging Mountain »

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