Western MA Climbing
Areas in Western MA
1,000 Acre Swamp
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Battleship Rock
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Chapel Ledge
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Charlemont
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Dry Hill
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Farley Ledges
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Goat Rock
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Hanging Mountain
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Ice Glutch, The
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Monroe State Forest
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Montague Wildlife Management Area
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Mormon Hollow
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Mount Holyoke Range State Park
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Mount Sugarloaf State Reservation
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Mount Tom State Reservation
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Puffer's Pond
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Race Brook Falls *Lower Falls*
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Roadside Crag
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Rose Ledge
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Sanctuary, The
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Sunbowl
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Wendell State Forest
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West Dell
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Widow White Boulders
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Elevation: | 1,482 ft |
GPS: |
42.37201, -72.95598 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
Page Views: | 383,546 total · 9,550/month |
Shared By: | jim.dangle on Jun 3, 2020 |
Admins: | sara pax, Old Timer, jim.dangle, Joe M |
Description
The western regions of MA have the best climbing in the state both in terms of abundance and quality. Most of it is not widely publicized and routes listed here (especially when it comes to bouldering) only scratch the surface. Newcomers should check out Farley, Mormon Hollow and Rose Ledge for single pitch and areas like Neverland, Happy Valley, and Farley (again) for bouldering.
Classic Climbing Routes at Western MA
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Route Name | Location | Star Rating | Difficulty | Date |
---|---|---|---|---|
● Beginner's (aka Easy Corner) | Rose Ledge > 02 - Main Face |
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR | |
● Guillotine (aka Double Over… | Rose Ledge > 02 - Main Face |
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR | |
● Stone By Stone | Hanging Mountain > Cloud Buttress |
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5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport | |
● Double Helix (aka Rikert's… | Rose Ledge > 02 - Main Face |
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5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR | |
● Tennessee | Rose Ledge > 02 - Main Face |
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5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR | |
● Lunge Roof (aka Rhino Dyno,… | Rose Ledge > 03 - Overhang Buttress |
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5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR | |
● Rising Tide | Hanging Mountain > Grotto |
|
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport | |
● Cardiac Arete (aka route 8) | Mormon Hollow |
|
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport | |
● Trouble Weighs a Ton | Hanging Mountain > Cloud Buttress |
|
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport | |
● Radiant Sky | Hanging Mountain > Acorn Face/Squirrel Wall |
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5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport | |
● Transcendentalism | Hanging Mountain > Cloud Buttress |
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5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport | |
● Psychedelic Honey | Hanging Mountain > Cloud Buttress |
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5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport | |
● Priapism | Mormon Hollow |
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5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport | |
● Arrhythmia | Mormon Hollow |
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5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a V4 6B Sport, Boulder | |
● Tunnel Vision | Mormon Hollow |
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5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport |
Weather Averages
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Photos
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Guidebooks (3)
Featured Guidebook:
An Ice Climber's Guide to Southern New England and Eastern New York
Author: Todd Swain/ Publish…
This guidebook covers 200 ice climbing areas in Connecticut, Massachusetts, Rhode Island, souther…
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