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Routes in The Sanctuary

Balance Bar S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unknown (crimps crux) S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown (overhanging jugs) S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Elevation: 597 ft
GPS: 42.594, -72.434 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 2,458 total, 21/month
Shared By: Zigs on Apr 8, 2008
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer
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Description

This area has nice, short sport routes on good rock. It's also pretty hard to find which tends to keep away the crowds (who are all at Farley across the street). It is nearly to the NH border north of Springfield.

Getting There

Go with somebody who knows where it is. If you can't find anyone who knows where it is, then follow my directions although I take no responsibility for any time that you may spend lost in the woods.

...that said...

From I-91, follow Route 2 east until you cross into Erving. Directly across the street from the temporary Farley access parking lot is a right turn (left if you are coming from points east) that will take you across the Miller's River (towards the overflow parking lot for Farley). Cross the river and go right after the train tracks. Make a left on Old Farley Road and park at a turnoff on your right. Here is where the fun begins.

Bushwhack up the hill for about 200 yards, pointing in a direction perpendicular to Old Farley Road, until you intersect an old logging trail that goes off to your right (there is a small hard to find trail that will take you to this logging trail at the left end of the parking turnout if you are facing away from the road). Follow the small logging trail uphill for about a quarter of a mile until it splits. Take the left fork, up the hill, for about a hundred yards until you see a small granite roof, that looks like it would make a fun boulder problem, on your right (about 30 feet away). At this point, break away from the trail and pass the roof on its right. From here on, you may start seeing scattered cairns that lead to the cliff, but they are not well spaced or maintained. The best thing to do your first few times, is keep in mind that, to find the cliff, you will need to walk about a quarter mile forward (standing with the roof boulder to your immediate left) and a quarter to a half mile up hill to the left. When you start seeing a thirty foot tall cliff band with scattered bolt lines, you are there. It all should take about 30 minutes.

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