Mormon Hollow Rock Climbing
|GPS:||42.569, -72.461 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
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|Shared By:||kurthicks on Apr 6, 2009|
|Admins:||Joe M., Old Timer, jim.dangle|
The cliffs face southwest and get sun from late morning until sunset, though trees obscure the sun during the summer months.
1. 5.10a Hang Ten - A slab and face climb that pulls a roof on the far left of the crag.
2. 5.10b Tidal Wave - the next route right
2a. Pinch the Polish 10+
3. Excessive Force 5.13a - These three sport routes all pull the 15' roof.
4. Tunnel Vision 12d
5. Power Dive 12+
6. 5.6 Trad/TR -- The wide zigzag crack just left of the Chimney.
Cardiac (aka Africa) Buttress
This formation features the righthand of the two huge roofs and slightly resembles the outline of Africa.
7. The Chimney -- 5.7 Trad -- the clean cut chimney
8. 5.10+ Cardiac Arete The obvious rounded arete on the rightside of the Africa Buttress roof. One start up this and finish on #9 to make a 5.11a TR (Cardiac Bypass).
9. 5.11 TR Pacemaker - The deceptively easy looking, but hard slab climb on the clean face just left of the staircase.
10. 5.12a sport Arrythmia -- This overhanging arete leans over the staircase.
Original Sin Buttress
11. Original Sin -- 5.10a trad
12. 5.11- -- a thin line just right of Original Sin
This buttress lies just above a rotting tree lying on the ground.
13, 14, 15. Three 5.8 climbs ascending a face with a right facing corner system. Top rope or runout leads.
16. 5.8 First Diagonal (aka. Tree Crack)
16a. 5.11+ - Delaney Memorial Route
16b.5.12 - Don't Sweat the Small Stuff
17. 5.9+ trad/TR, Methodical Madness -- A fun thin crack with a pumpy crux at the end.
18. 5.8 trad/TR, Pulchritudinous Panda (aka Methodical Right) -- Start up #17, but move right at the top following a crack to a separate anchor.
19. 5.7 sport -- The Ramp. Follow four bolts up a clean slab to an anchor above the roof. A small cam (green alien) between the 3rd and 4th bolts makes it less runout.
20. Priapism 5.12a -- A beautifully steep sport route. Do it.
21. 5.9 trad, Second Diagonal -- The obvious crack just right of Priaprism.
22. 5.10 Trad, Third Diagonal -- The next crack to the right that leads to a bird's nest. At 2/3 height one can go left up a Y crack or through a handcrack in the roof past the nest.
Far Right End
23, 24, 25. 5.8/9 -- Three top ropes on the next boulder to the right.
Wayne's World (Entry Boulder)
The first rock encountered when walking up to Mormon. Reach the top by bouldering up the backside to bolted anchors.
26. 5.13R/X or TR, Dark Star -- This route faces the approach trail on the left side of the overhanging face.
27. ?? TR -- The left arete of the big boulder.
Just above the stone staircase lie these routes.
28. Boulder traverse on the left about 50' above the top of the Africa Buttress.
29. 5.11+ -- follow the trail straight up to find this sport climb.
30. ?? -- another set of TR anchors.
From the parking area, turn right at the "T" intersection. Walk about 100 meters to an old road on the left marked with a "No Parking" sign. Hike uphill on this overgrown road for about 200 meters, until it makes a sharp right turn at a flat spot. A spur trail on the left marked with a cairn leads another 100 meters or so to the crag, 10 minutes.
Per losbill: when parking at the T-intersection, be sure not to block the entrance to the two fields on either side of Davis Road.
Classic Climbing Routes at Mormon Hollow
Days w Precip