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Routes in Mormon Hollow

1. Unnamed route (left side) S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
13. (Central Buttress Far Left Slab Route) S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
14. T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
15. T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
15a. Direct start to 15 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Arrhythmia S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Bird Battle S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Cardiac Arete (aka route 8) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chimney, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Don't Sweat the Small Stuff S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Excessive Force S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Excessive Tunnel Power S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Methodical Madness T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Original Sin T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Power Dive S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Priapism S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pulchritudinous Panda T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tidal Wave (route 2) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tree Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tunnel Vision S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Elevation: 700 ft
GPS: 42.569, -72.461 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 26,772 total, 254/month
Shared By: kurthicks on Apr 6, 2009
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer
Getting weather forecast...

Description

Home to some classic climbs on excellent gneiss, Mormon Hollow is a fine complement to other nearby popular crags (Farley and Rose Ledges) of western Massachusetts. There is a nice smattering of moderate routes, good cracks, and a handful of steep, hard sport climbs. All of the routes here can be top roped off trees or bolted anchors, except those on the central boulder which requires a short boulder problem to reach the anchors. Access the top of the main cliff is via a stone staircase in the middle of the cliff.

The cliffs face southwest and get sun from late morning until sunset, though trees obscure the sun during the summer months.

I don't know the names of most of the routes, but here is a list of difficulties and descriptions from left to right. These will be amended if I get additional FA information.

Left Side
1. 5.10 Top Rope -- A slab and face climb that pulls a roof on the far left of the crag.
2. 5.10+ Top Rope -- the next route right
3, 4, & 5. These three sport routes all pull the 15' roof. All are 5.13.
6. 5.6 Trad/TR -- The wide zigzag crack just left of the Chimney.

Africa Buttress
This formation features the righthand of the two huge roofs and slightly resembles the outline of Africa.
7. The Chimney -- 5.7 Trad -- the clean cut chimney
8. 5.10+ TR -- The obvious rounded arete on the rightside of the Africa Buttress roof. One start up this and finish on #9 to make a 5.11a TR.
9. 5.11+ TR -- The deceptively easy looking, but hard slab climb on the clean face just left of the staircase.
10. 5.12a sport -- This overhanging arete leans over the staircase.

Original Sin Buttress
11. Original Sin -- 5.10a trad
12. 5.11- -- a thin line just right of Original Sin

Central Buttress
This buttress lies just above a rotting tree lying on the ground.
13, 14, 15. Three 5.8 climbs ascending a face with a right facing corner system. Top rope or runout leads.
16. Tree Crack -- 5.8
17. 5.9+ trad/TR -- A fun thin crack with a pumpy crux at the end.
18. 5.8 trad/TR -- Start up #17, but move right at the top following a crack to a separate anchor.

Priaprism Buttress
19. 5.7 sport -- The warm-up. Follow four bolts up a clean slab to an anchor above the roof. A small cam (green alien) between the 3rd and 4th bolts makes it less runout.
20. Priaprism 5.12a -- A beautifully steep sport route. Do it.
21. 5.11- Trad -- The obvious crack just right of Priaprism.
22. ? -- The next crack to the right that leads to a bird's nest. At 2/3 height one can go left up a Y crack or through a handcrack in the roof past the nest.

Far Right End
23, 24, 25. 5.8/9 -- Three top ropes on the next boulder to the right.

Entry Boulder
The first rock encountered when walking up to Mormon. Reach the top by bouldering up the backside to bolted anchors.
26. 5.13R/X or TR -- This route faces the approach trail on the left side of the overhanging face.
27. ?? TR -- The left arete of the big boulder.

Upper Tier
Just above the stone staircase lie these routes.
28. Boulder traverse on the left about 50' above the top of the Africa Buttress.
29. 5.11+ -- follow the trail straight up to find this sport climb.
30. ?? -- another set of TR anchors.
Raven Closure Details

Getting There

From I-91, turn east onto Route 2 towards Boston & Turners Falls. Drive 7.1 miles to a left turn onto Gateway Drive at a large, family entertainment center. Go about 100m, and turn right/south at the first stop sign onto Route 63. Stay on Route 63 as it crosses the river then goes through downtown Miller's Falls. The road continues straight, over a green metal bridge. Veer left onto Wendell Road. Go left after 0.8 miles onto Mormon Hollow Road. Drive 0.7 miles, and turn right onto Davis Road. Continue a quarter mile to a "T" intersection. Park on the right shoulder here.

From the parking area, turn right at the "T" intersection. Walk about 100 meters to an old road on the left marked with a "No Parking" sign. Hike uphill on this overgrown road for about 200 meters, until it makes a sharp right turn at a flat spot. A spur trail on the left marked with a cairn leads another 100 meters or so to the crag, 10 minutes.

Per losbill: when parking at the T-intersection, be sure not to block the entrance to the two fields on either side of Davis Road.

20 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mormon Hollow

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
The Chimney
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pulchritudinous Panda
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tree Crack
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
15.
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Original Sin
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
15a. Direct start to 15
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tidal Wave (route 2)
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
1. Unnamed route (left side)
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cardiac Arete (aka route 8)
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Priapism
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Arrhythmia
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Don't Sweat the Small Stuff
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tunnel Vision
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Excessive Force
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Chimney 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Pulchritudinous Panda 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Tree Crack 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
15. 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Original Sin 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
15a. Direct start to 15 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Tidal Wave (route 2) 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
1. Unnamed route (left side) 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Cardiac Arete (aka route 8) 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Priapism 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Arrhythmia 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Don't Sweat the Small Stuff 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Tunnel Vision 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Excessive Force 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Mormon Hollow »

Weather Averages

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Days w Precip
 
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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Anyone know what the bolted line left of Panda is rated? Looks pretty hard. Jan 17, 2017
Ben A  
About the directions- When hiking from the T intersection, the overgrown road which you follow that cuts off to the left does not have a "no parking" sign. This also feels like a trail rather than an overgrown road. Hike up this trail till you reach a the first fork, with the main trail going uphill to the right and a smaller trail going straight. Take the main trail to the right till you reach another intersection with two separate trails going to the left, the second having a cairn. Take the second and the crag is straight ahead. Also, you can park and hike in from a lot inside the state forest, as the WMCC explains at their site climbgneiss.com Aug 6, 2016
will ar
San Antonio, TX
will ar   San Antonio, TX
Was at MH the other day and routes 1&2 have had the bolts replaced. They are both fun routes and worth doing. There is an additional route that was put up to the right of 2, but it was wet and we didn't get on it. Additionally, #8 is now bolted, there is a partially bolted line to the left of original sin, and routes 14/15 have a couple of bolts (not sure it these had previously chopped bolts replaced or were retrobolted). Nov 22, 2015
Zach Swanson
Newton, MA
Zach Swanson   Newton, MA
#10 is Arrhythmia by the way, and it was rebolted fairly recently to reduce the risk of injury if you fell mid-route. Nov 17, 2015
losbill  
When parking at the T-intersection, be sure not to block the entrance to the two fields on either side of Davis Road. If I had been the farmer yesterday, I would have thrown a chain around the axle of the offending vehicle and "moved" it with the tractor to a more "convenient" location. Fortunately the farmer is a bit more laid back than me. Aug 10, 2014
I don't believe that Route #21 actually exists. The obvious crack just right of Priapism is 5.8, not 5.11. Nov 3, 2013
Jeffrey Daub
Athol, MA
Jeffrey Daub   Athol, MA
A note about the directions - it is Route 63 from Route 2, not Route 68. Mar 22, 2012

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