Elevation: 546 ft
GPS: 42.569, -72.461 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 64,097 total · 467/month
Shared By: kurthicks on Apr 6, 2009 with improvements by Dylan Levar and 2 others
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer, jim.dangle

Description

Home to some classic climbs on excellent gneiss, Mormon Hollow is a fine complement to other nearby popular crags (Farley and Rose Ledges) of western Massachusetts. There is a nice smattering of moderate routes, good cracks, and a handful of steep, hard sport climbs. All of the routes here can be top roped off trees or bolted anchors, except those on the central boulder which requires a short boulder problem to reach the anchors. Access the top of the main cliff is via a stone staircase in the middle of the cliff.

The cliffs face southwest and get sun from late morning until sunset, though trees obscure the sun during the summer months.

Wave Wall
1. 5.10a Hang Ten - A slab and face climb that pulls a roof on the far left of the crag.
2. 5.10b  Tidal Wave - the next route right
2a. Pinch the Polish 10+
3. Excessive Force 5.13a - These three sport routes all pull the 15' roof.
4. Tunnel Vision 12d
5. Power Dive 12+
6. 5.6 Trad/TR -- The wide zigzag crack just left of the Chimney.

Cardiac (aka Africa) Buttress
This formation features the righthand of the two huge roofs and slightly resembles the outline of Africa.
7. The Chimney -- 5.7 Trad -- the clean cut chimney
8. 5.10+ Cardiac Arete The obvious rounded arete on the rightside of the Africa Buttress roof. One start up this and finish on #9 to make a 5.11a TR (Cardiac Bypass).
9. 5.11 TR Pacemaker -  The deceptively easy looking, but hard slab climb on the clean face just left of the staircase.
10. 5.12a sport  Arrythmia -- This overhanging arete leans over the staircase.

Original Sin Buttress
11. Original Sin -- 5.10a trad
12. 5.11- -- a thin line just right of Original Sin

Janitors Buttress
This buttress lies just above a rotting tree lying on the ground.
13, 14, 15. Three 5.8 climbs ascending a face with a right facing corner system. Top rope or runout leads.
16. 5.8 First Diagonal (aka. Tree Crack)
16a. 5.11+ - Delaney Memorial Route
16b.5.12 - Don't Sweat the Small Stuff
17. 5.9+ trad/TR, Methodical Madness -- A fun thin crack with a pumpy crux at the end.
18. 5.8 trad/TR, Pulchritudinous Panda (aka Methodical Right) -- Start up #17, but move right at the top following a crack to a separate anchor.

Priaprism Buttress
19. 5.7 sport -- The Ramp. Follow four bolts up a clean slab to an anchor above the roof. A small cam (green alien) between the 3rd and 4th bolts makes it less runout.
20. Priapism 5.12a -- A beautifully steep sport route. Do it.
21. 5.9 trad,  Second Diagonal -- The obvious crack just right of Priaprism.
22. 5.10 Trad, Third Diagonal -- The next crack to the right that leads to a bird's nest. At 2/3 height one can go left up a Y crack or through a handcrack in the roof past the nest.

Far Right End
23, 24, 25. 5.8/9 -- Three top ropes on the next boulder to the right.

Wayne's World (Entry Boulder)
The first rock encountered when walking up to Mormon. Reach the top by bouldering up the backside to bolted anchors.
26. 5.13R/X or TR, Dark Star -- This route faces the approach trail on the left side of the overhanging face.
27. ?? TR -- The left arete of the big boulder.

Upper Tier
Just above the stone staircase lie these routes.
28. Boulder traverse on the left about 50' above the top of the Africa Buttress.
29. 5.11+ -- follow the trail straight up to find this sport climb.
30. ?? -- another set of TR anchors.

Getting There

From I-91, turn east onto Route 2 towards Boston & Turners Falls. Drive 7.1 miles to a left turn onto Gateway Drive at a large, family entertainment center. Go about 100m, and turn right/south at the first stop sign onto Route 63. Stay on Route 63 as it crosses the river then goes through downtown Miller's Falls. The road continues straight, over a green metal bridge. Veer left onto Wendell Road. Go left after 0.8 miles onto Mormon Hollow Road. Drive 0.7 miles, and turn right onto Davis Road. Continue a quarter mile to a "T" intersection. Park on the right shoulder here.

From the parking area, turn right at the "T" intersection. Walk about 100 meters to an old road on the left marked with a "No Parking" sign. Hike uphill on this overgrown road for about 200 meters, until it makes a sharp right turn at a flat spot. A spur trail on the left marked with a cairn leads another 100 meters or so to the crag, 10 minutes.

Per losbill: when parking at the T-intersection, be sure not to block the entrance to the two fields on either side of Davis Road.

34 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mormon Hollow

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 26
Pulchritudinous Panda (aka Metho…
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 25
14.
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 25
The Ramp aka Cursed Slab
Sport, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 21
Tree Crack
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 19
15.
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 35
Original Sin
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 10
The Janitor’s Cadillac
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 23
Tidal Wave (route 2)
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 21
The Mormon Experience
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 29
Hang Ten
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 41
Cardiac Arete (aka route 8)
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 57
Priapism
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 16
Arrhythmia
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 15
Tunnel Vision
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 4
Excessive Force
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Pulchritudinous Panda (aka…
 26
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
14.
 25
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
The Ramp aka Cursed Slab
 25
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport, TR
Tree Crack
 21
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
15.
 19
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Original Sin
 35
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
The Janitor’s Cadillac
 10
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Tidal Wave (route 2)
 23
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
The Mormon Experience
 21
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Hang Ten
 29
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Cardiac Arete (aka route 8)
 41
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Priapism
 57
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Arrhythmia
 16
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Tunnel Vision
 15
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Excessive Force
 4
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
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