Elevation: 546 ft
GPS: 42.569, -72.461 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 35,261 total · 299/month
Shared By: kurthicks on Apr 6, 2009 with updates from Dylan Levar and 1 other
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer, jim.dangle
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Access Issue: Raven Closure & Parking Details

Description

Home to some classic climbs on excellent gneiss, Mormon Hollow is a fine complement to other nearby popular crags (Farley and Rose Ledges) of western Massachusetts. There is a nice smattering of moderate routes, good cracks, and a handful of steep, hard sport climbs. All of the routes here can be top roped off trees or bolted anchors, except those on the central boulder which requires a short boulder problem to reach the anchors. Access the top of the main cliff is via a stone staircase in the middle of the cliff.

The cliffs face southwest and get sun from late morning until sunset, though trees obscure the sun during the summer months.

Wave Wall
1. 5.10a Hang Ten - A slab and face climb that pulls a roof on the far left of the crag.
2. 5.10b  Tidal Wave - the next route right
2a. Pinch the Polish 10+
3. Excessive Force 5.13a - These three sport routes all pull the 15' roof.
4. Tunnel Vision 12d
5. Power Dive 12+
6. 5.6 Trad/TR -- The wide zigzag crack just left of the Chimney.

Cardiac (aka Africa) Buttress
This formation features the righthand of the two huge roofs and slightly resembles the outline of Africa.
7. The Chimney -- 5.7 Trad -- the clean cut chimney
8. 5.10+ Cardiac Arete The obvious rounded arete on the rightside of the Africa Buttress roof. One start up this and finish on #9 to make a 5.11a TR (Cardiac Bypass).
9. 5.11 TR Pacemaker -  The deceptively easy looking, but hard slab climb on the clean face just left of the staircase.
10. 5.12a sport  Arrythmia -- This overhanging arete leans over the staircase.

Original Sin Buttress
11. Original Sin -- 5.10a trad
12. 5.11- -- a thin line just right of Original Sin

Janitors Buttress
This buttress lies just above a rotting tree lying on the ground.
13, 14, 15. Three 5.8 climbs ascending a face with a right facing corner system. Top rope or runout leads.
16. 5.8 First Diagonal (aka. Tree Crack)
16a. 5.11+ - Delaney Memorial Route
16b.5.12 - Don't Sweat the Small Stuff
17. 5.9+ trad/TR, Methodical Madness -- A fun thin crack with a pumpy crux at the end.
18. 5.8 trad/TR, Pulchritudinous Panda (aka Methodical Right) -- Start up #17, but move right at the top following a crack to a separate anchor.

Priaprism Buttress
19. 5.7 sport -- The Ramp. Follow four bolts up a clean slab to an anchor above the roof. A small cam (green alien) between the 3rd and 4th bolts makes it less runout.
20. Priapism 5.12a -- A beautifully steep sport route. Do it.
21. 5.9 trad,  Second Diagonal -- The obvious crack just right of Priaprism.
22. 5.10 Trad, Third Diagonal -- The next crack to the right that leads to a bird's nest. At 2/3 height one can go left up a Y crack or through a handcrack in the roof past the nest.

Far Right End
23, 24, 25. 5.8/9 -- Three top ropes on the next boulder to the right.

Wayne's World (Entry Boulder)
The first rock encountered when walking up to Mormon. Reach the top by bouldering up the backside to bolted anchors.
26. 5.13R/X or TR, Dark Star -- This route faces the approach trail on the left side of the overhanging face.
27. ?? TR -- The left arete of the big boulder.

Upper Tier
Just above the stone staircase lie these routes.
28. Boulder traverse on the left about 50' above the top of the Africa Buttress.
29. 5.11+ -- follow the trail straight up to find this sport climb.
30. ?? -- another set of TR anchors.

Getting There

From I-91, turn east onto Route 2 towards Boston & Turners Falls. Drive 7.1 miles to a left turn onto Gateway Drive at a large, family entertainment center. Go about 100m, and turn right/south at the first stop sign onto Route 63. Stay on Route 63 as it crosses the river then goes through downtown Miller's Falls. The road continues straight, over a green metal bridge. Veer left onto Wendell Road. Go left after 0.8 miles onto Mormon Hollow Road. Drive 0.7 miles, and turn right onto Davis Road. Continue a quarter mile to a "T" intersection. Park on the right shoulder here.

From the parking area, turn right at the "T" intersection. Walk about 100 meters to an old road on the left marked with a "No Parking" sign. Hike uphill on this overgrown road for about 200 meters, until it makes a sharp right turn at a flat spot. A spur trail on the left marked with a cairn leads another 100 meters or so to the crag, 10 minutes.

Per losbill: when parking at the T-intersection, be sure not to block the entrance to the two fields on either side of Davis Road.

28 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mormon Hollow

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 17
Pulchritudinous Panda (aka Metho…
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 12
14.
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 13
Tree Crack
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 14
15.
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 6
Methodical Madness
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 31
Original Sin
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 9
The Janitor’s Cadillac
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 10
Tidal Wave (route 2)
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 13
Hang Ten
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 22
Cardiac Arete (aka route 8)
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 5
Pinch the Polish
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 39
Priapism
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 6
Arrhythmia
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 7
Tunnel Vision
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 3
Excessive Force
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Pulchritudinous Panda (aka…
 17
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
14.
 12
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Tree Crack
 13
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
15.
 14
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Methodical Madness
 6
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, TR
Original Sin
 31
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
The Janitor’s Cadillac
 9
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Tidal Wave (route 2)
 10
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Hang Ten
 13
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Cardiac Arete (aka route 8)
 22
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Pinch the Polish
 5
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
Priapism
 39
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Arrhythmia
 6
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Tunnel Vision
 7
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Excessive Force
 3
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Mormon Hollow »

Sun & Shade

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
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Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Jeffrey Daub
Athol, MA
Jeffrey Daub   Athol, MA
A note about the directions - it is Route 63 from Route 2, not Route 68. Mar 22, 2012
Max Shaffer
Boston, MA
Max Shaffer   Boston, MA
I don't believe that Route #21 actually exists. The obvious crack just right of Priapism is 5.8, not 5.11. Nov 3, 2013
losbill  
When parking at the T-intersection, be sure not to block the entrance to the two fields on either side of Davis Road. If I had been the farmer yesterday, I would have thrown a chain around the axle of the offending vehicle and "moved" it with the tractor to a more "convenient" location. Fortunately the farmer is a bit more laid back than me. Aug 10, 2014
Zach Swanson
Newton, MA
Zach Swanson   Newton, MA
#10 is Arrhythmia by the way, and it was rebolted fairly recently to reduce the risk of injury if you fell mid-route. Nov 17, 2015
will ar
San Antonio, TX
will ar   San Antonio, TX
Was at MH the other day and routes 1&2 have had the bolts replaced. They are both fun routes and worth doing. There is an additional route that was put up to the right of 2, but it was wet and we didn't get on it. Additionally, #8 is now bolted, there is a partially bolted line to the left of original sin, and routes 14/15 have a couple of bolts (not sure it these had previously chopped bolts replaced or were retrobolted). Nov 22, 2015
Ben A  
About the directions- When hiking from the T intersection, the overgrown road which you follow that cuts off to the left does not have a "no parking" sign. This also feels like a trail rather than an overgrown road. Hike up this trail till you reach a the first fork, with the main trail going uphill to the right and a smaller trail going straight. Take the main trail to the right till you reach another intersection with two separate trails going to the left, the second having a cairn. Take the second and the crag is straight ahead. Also, you can park and hike in from a lot inside the state forest, as the WMCC explains at their site climbgneiss.com Aug 6, 2016
Anyone know what the bolted line left of Panda is rated? Looks pretty hard. Jan 17, 2017
Dylan Levar
New England
Dylan Levar   New England
I was just asked kindly by the landowners to remind everyone to not park in-front of the gates to the fields at the T intersection. Sep 9, 2018