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Areas in Massachusetts

Ashby Area 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Auburn Ice Canyon 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Ayer Boulders 0 / 0 / 2 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Bolton Lunch Rock and Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Borderland State Park Easton 0 / 0 / 0 / 32 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 32
Boulder Brook Reservation 0 / 0 / 0 / 16 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16
Breakheart Reservation 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Bunyan Mountain 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Cape Ann 38 / 24 / 56 / 894 / 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 974
Castle Hill 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Castle Rock, Marblehead 0 / 0 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Chapel Ledge 1 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Charlemont 0 / 0 / 0 / 29 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 29
Chelmsford Lime Quarry 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Clark Park 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
College Rock 3 / 0 / 18 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 27
Cuttyhunk 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Denrock 6 / 0 / 12 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 17
Doane Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Dry Hill 1 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Farley Ledge 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Fort Devens 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Garfield Woods 2 / 0 / 0 / 12 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13
Gilbert Hills State Park 0 / 0 / 0 / 89 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 89
Greater Boston Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Hammond Pond 11 / 0 / 78 / 67 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 143
Happy Valley and The Hideaway 0 / 0 / 0 / 31 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 31
Harold A. King Forest 0 / 0 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Hemlock Hill in the Arnold Arboretum 0 / 0 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Hokum Rock 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Hopkinton State Park 1 / 1 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
House Rock 3 / 0 / 4 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Inter Lochen Park 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Jenkins' Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Joe's Rock 4 / 0 / 12 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13
Kenmore Walls aka Back Bay Fens 1 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
King Philip Rock 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Leominster Area 45 / 1 / 23 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 51
Lynn Woods 8 / 0 / 13 / 1098 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1113
Manomet Point Bouldering 0 / 0 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Martha's Vineyard 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Middlesex Fells 6 / 0 / 20 / 67 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 87
Milford Bouldering 1 / 0 / 0 / 76 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 77
Monroe State Forest 1 / 0 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Mormon Hollow 8 / 12 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 20
Mt. Madison 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Nauset MiddleSchool Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Neverland 0 / 0 / 0 / 39 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 39
Nickerson State Park 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Nira Rock 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Peppercorn Hill 0 / 0 / 1 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Pine Banks Park 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Powder House Crag 0 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Quincy Quarries 20 / 1 / 101 / 6 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 111
Rattlesnake Rocks 32 / 2 / 40 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 54
Redrock and vicinity 17 / 8 / 27 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 36
Roadside Crag 0 / 2 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Rock House Reservation 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Rocky Woods 0 / 0 / 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Rose Ledge 20 / 0 / 22 / 13 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 40
Route 9 Boulder 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Sanctuary, The 0 / 3 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Sarah Doublet forest 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Savin Hill 1 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Scotland Boulder aka Haystack Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Shining Rock 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Stickney's Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Sunbowl 0 / 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
Tivnan Park Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Townsend, MA Bouldering 0 / 0 / 2 / 35 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 37
Tyngsborough Quarry 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Underworld Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Waitts Mountain Park 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
West Dell 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Westport River 1 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Whipple Hill Conservation Area 0 / 0 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Whitney Thayer Woods 0 / 0 / 0 / 28 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 28
Wilmington Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
World's End 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Wrentham State Forest 0 / 0 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Elevation: 5 ft
GPS: 42.399, -71.826 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Leo Paik on Jan 13, 2007 with updates
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer

Description

One of the original 13 colonies of the US, Massachusetts (still a Commonwealth) is blessed with a smattering of small climbing opportunities for the local climber. While it is unlikely that any of the 60+ areas is likely to be considered a destination area, this has been a training area for plenty of New England climbers and may provide unexpected pleasures for the incidental visitor. The tallest climb is likely less than 150 feet in the state. Nonetheless, for rock climbers seeking the vertical and able to relish in small pleasures, there is climbing to be done here. There are even tidbits of ice for the knucklebasher.

Due to the compact nature of the rock in Massachusetts, many areas are top-rope primarily. Many of these areas necessitate long lengths of sling material. Due to the fickle nature of New England weather, some of these areas can be difficult to climb for extended periods of time; however, global warming might actually improve this issue. Some rock, like that of Crow Hill will require extended time to dry out after significant precipitation.

Climbing in Eastern Massachusetts has been going on since at least the 1910s. Frank Mason, once AMC president, climbed on cliffs in West Roxbury now consumed for human construction. Robert Underhill, Miriam O'Brien, & fellow AMCers climbed at areas like Crow Hill and Joe English Hill. Climbing at Hammond Pond dates back to the 1920s. Once, Hitchcock Quarries (now filled in) provided multi-pitch climbing. There are photos from the 1930s from climbs at Rattlesnake Rocks. More recently, climbers like Kevin Bein, John Yates, Steve Arsenault, Henry Barber, Ajax Greene, George Meyers, Paul Niland, David Breashears, and Geoff Tabin cut their climbing teeth in the area. As climbers began searching for more challenges, some of the human constructions attracted attention and buildering began to gain attention for the urban-based climbers. Climbing has been going on in Western Massachusetts since at least the 1960s. The Western Massachusetts climbers have organized a grass-roots organization which is actively involved in preserving access to climbing areas. Their website is WesternMACC.com.

One of the great challenges to the climbing community here is the preservation of access to these climbing areas. Over time, a number of areas have been closed or even destroyed here. Many a situation is delicate, and thus, a centralized location for information could benefit all. Hence, please check out the local access issue prior to climbing in an effort to maximize the climbing for all. For Farley Ledge, please check WesternMACC.com first before climbing.

I've been to 14 of the 36 areas listed in Tim Toula's fine 1995 Rock 'n Road. Some of these areas are buildering areas. Twenty-one areas (of which I've been to 17) are listed in the 1987 MIT Outing Club's Boston Rocks which covers areas east of Worcester. Since, I understand Boston Rocks II has been updated to include more routes & areas. So, if you know the other areas, please fill in the details....

Special note: many of these route listings come from years ago when I once frequented these areas. Updates can obviously be made. This is a start for this website, since little else is obvious on the web.

Organizations

AMC. Appalachian Mountain Club/Boston Office at 5 Joy Street, Boston, MA (617.523.0636) may be a good resource for climbers.
Western Massachusetts Climber's Coalition is a grass roots organization of climbers in Western MA.
MIT Outing Club is an organization at MIT.
Harvard Mountaineering Club is an organization at Harvard.
Southeast New England Climbers' Association

Rock areas

Rock areas in Massachusetts include: Atomics, Bates Boulder, Berlin Boulder, Black and White Rocks, Black Rock**, Borderland SP (Easton), Boylston Quarry, Bow Ridge Reservation (Kallenberg Quarry, Pizza & Beer Quarry), Bunyan Mountain, Cape Ann, Castle Hill (Breakheart Reservation), Castle Rock (Marblehead), Chapel Ledges, College Rock, Concord Street (Gloucester)**, Crow Hill, Denrock, Dell Ave. (Boston), Douglas State Forest, Echo Bridge**, Esoteric Boston Areas** (MIT Domes, John Hancock Tower**, Delle Ave, Northboro), Farley Ledge**, Ft. Ruckman** (Nahant), Forty Caves (Berlin), Freetown State Forest, Gilbert Hills State Park, Gloucester (Annisquam**, Arrowhead**, Bray St**, Canton**, Cavalry/Gymnasium, Dogtown, Driven Boulder**, Dykes Pond, Farm Creek Boulder, Good Harbor Beach**, Green Tavern Boulder**, Hardy Mountain, Junkey Boulder**, Klondike Reservoir**, Lost Ledges**, Meeting House Rock, Menotomy Rocks (Arlington), Mod Gripping Quarry/Atlantic Ave, Mt Ann, Mt Jacob Swamp**, Nelson Quarry**, Ravenswood, Wheeler St**), Great Barrington Area (Bung Hill**, East Mountain**, Greenwood Cliffs, Monument Mountain, & Reservoir Rocks**), Hammond Pond, Happy Valley, Hideaway, Hills State Forest, Hopkinton SP, House Rock (Weymouth), Jenkins' Boulder**, Joe’s Rock (Wrentham), Kenmore Walls aka Back Bay Fens, Langsford Pond** (Gloucester), Lookout Rock (Northbridge), Lynn Woods (Lantern Rock), Magnolia (Gloucester area), Doliver Point, Hesperus, Mussel Point, Rafe's Chasm), Manchester (various), Marblehead (various), Melrose (various), Milford Bouldering (Vietnam**), Mission Hill** (Boston), Mohawk Rock (Savoy), Monroe State Forest, Mormon Hollow, Mt. Madison, Nelson, Quarry** (Gloucester), Northboro Arches**, Peabody Boulders, Peter's Hill (Sherborn), Pine Cobble, Purgatory Chasm SP**, Quincy Quarries, Rattlesnake Gutter**, Rattlesnake Rocks, Redrock, Redrock North, Rockport (boulders & quarries, Pigeon & Folly Cove, Halibut Point), Rocky Woods Reservation, Rocky Woods Rd (Taunton), Rose Ledges**, Route 9 boulder, The Sanctuary, Savin Hill (Dorcester), Stage Fort Park, Stickney's Boulder , Upton State Forest, Waban Arches**, Waitts Mt (Malden), ?? (Montague), West Roxbury Ledges, Westford Quarry, Westport River, World's End (Hingham), Wrentham State Forest. (**known or possible access issues).

Ice Climbing

Boston Rocks II describes ice in the Boston area. New England Ice and NEClimbs describe ice in the New England area.

Auburn Ice Canyon - South of Worcester, with cold temps, this canyon offers a variety of ice. NEI3-4. Access a bit touchy.
Black and White Rocks / Fells - with cold temps, there is a cascade and gully near Crag 6.
Castle Hill - with cold temps, a bit of ice forms at Breakheart Reservation.
Crow Hill - moisture and cold temps create some ice here occasionally.
Rockport Quarries.
Zoar road cuts (check the legality first).

Guidebooks

Boston Rocks II covers 50+ crags and 800+ routes in Eastern Massachusetts. Get it! Boston Rocks 1987 or 1995 editions are likely difficult to find. Boston Rolls, East, and assorted guides exist for the state. Rock Climbing New England may be useful.

Weather

You can potentially use the NOAA website for information. Humidity can be high, especially in eastern Massachusetts. Crisp, sunny, fall days in Massachusetts can be amazing.

Gyms

Boston Rock Gym Woburn, MA.
Gravity Rock Gym Stow, MA.
Carabiner's Rock Gym New Bedford, MA.
MetroRock Everett & Newburyport, MA.
Gordon College Rock Gym Wenham, MA.
Latitude Sports Club Peabody, MA.
Lighthouse Fitness climbing wall Plymouth, MA.
Sterling Gymnastics Sterling, MA.
Exxcel climbing & gymnastics Newton, MA.
MIT climbing wall Cambridge, MA.
Rock Spot Climbing : Sprague Street, Boston/Dedham & Old Colony Avenue, South Boston.
Central Rock Gym, 299 Barber St., Worcester, MA.
Rock On Adventure, Norwood, MA.
Central Rock has a bouldering gym in Cambridge and a full gym in Watertown
http://brooklynboulders.com/somerville/

Ah, the ole days of climbing with Fires on the bricks lining the old theatre/former Boston Rock Gym....

Getting There

Look way, way, way east.

Boston Map

Boston map. One of the weirdest things in Boston proper is that there are fewer legal parking spots than cars in this city. Go figure.

Pictures

Photo samples from Boston Rocks II in the area Set 1, Set 2, Set 3.

Bouldering

There is even a bouldering website for bouldering in New England and specifically Massachusetts.

3,251 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Massachusetts Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Massachusetts

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Boardwalk
Trad, TR
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Green Route
Trad 2 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Layback
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Zipper
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sidewinder
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Guillotine (aka Double Overhead Cam)
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Intertwine
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Outside Corner
Trad, TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tarzan
Trad
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Thin Line
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Double Helix (aka Rikert's Corner)
Trad, TR
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tennessee
Trad, TR
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cro-Magnon
Trad, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Jane
Trad, TR
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Priapism
Sport
Boardwalk Leominster Area > Crow Hill > 6. Practice Face (right end) 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, TR
Green Route Leominster Area > Crow Hill > 2. Green Corner 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 2 pitches
Layback Quincy Quarries > J Wall (aka L Face) 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Zipper Redrock and vicinity 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Sidewinder Leominster Area > Crow Hill > 6. Practice Face (right end) 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Guillotine (aka Double Over… Rose Ledge 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Intertwine Leominster Area > Crow Hill > 5. Main Face 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Outside Corner Quincy Quarries > K Wall (aka M Face) 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Tarzan Leominster Area > Crow Hill > 3. Fisherman's Wall 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Thin Line Leominster Area > Crow Hill > 5. Main Face 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13 Trad
Double Helix (aka Rikert's… Rose Ledge 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Tennessee Rose Ledge 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Cro-Magnon Leominster Area > Crow Hill > 3. Fisherman's Wall 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
Jane Leominster Area > Crow Hill > 3. Fisherman's Wall 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 Trad, TR
Priapism Mormon Hollow 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Massachusetts »

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
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Joe M.    
DCR allows climbing on State property, so you should be all set in Freetown. If I remember correctly, there was a group of "Southcoast" climbers from Carabiners doing a bunch of stuff there and a Weetamoo Woods in Tiverton.

If you poke around their facebook page, you might be able to get some useful info: facebook.com/SouthcoastClimb/.
Apr 10, 2017
Does anyone know about the climbing access in freetown state forest in Fall River MA? If there is climbing access, then does anyone know if there are any developed boulders??? I was thinking about heading up there but wanted to about the access beforehand. Apr 9, 2017
Tim McGivern
Medford, ma
Tim McGivern   Medford, ma
Just wanted to update some topics from this thread here:

1) A Eastern MA/Greater Boston LCO (Local Climbing Org) is beginning to form. See the thread below or send me a message for more info

mountainproject.com/v/does-…

2) Waits Mountain Park (Possible the "new" cliff mentioned here by Jbraman?) has been cleaned up and fixed up. The brush at the base of the cliff was removed along with the PI. The new photos posted show the improvements. Much better!

3) The DWS mentioned could be the quarry in Becket, MA. I believe this is where Josh Larson put up Eli (5.13c). There are quarries all over MA, including Cape Ann. Some have deep water and climbing. It looks like there are at least a few routes at the Becket Quarry. If you are familiar with them, please add them to the MP database.

4) There are still new routes and areas going up in and around Lynn Woods. A new map which expands on the lynnwoodsbouldering.com map will be available soon for the areas without access issues (there are a lot with access issues.)

EDIT: Here is the new map: NEW LYNN WOODS MAP Mar 13, 2017
Tim McGivern
Medford, ma
Tim McGivern   Medford, ma
I found some really nice blocks in the Spring Pond Woods in Peabody over the weekend. One of them is "Lookout Rock", I believe. It looks like they are on public park land and have access from the path around Spring Pond. There are at least three quality 12-15 foot blocks with potential for more in the surrounding woods (trying to head back Friday or Saturday. I can't imagine these bad boys have been overlooked in the hunt for North Shore boulders over the decades. Let me know if you have any other information. I am waiting to post the area and pictures until I hear back from Old Timer and other folks here. May 10, 2016
bend  
So... deep water soloing somewhere? Is it secret? Or may I know where to find some? I'm coning to the Boston area in June and would love to get on some. Apr 10, 2015
T Roper
DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
T Roper   DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
Don't let some forgotten piece of unused choss sit and be ignored by the local topropers. If it feels good, you know it will be fun, and it won't threaten future access, then do it. CT is a much better state now with numerous places to clip some bolts. Jan 10, 2015
jbraman
boston, ma
jbraman   boston, ma
@Tim I have no idea re: bolts in The Fells. I guess the crag I am speaking of scares people off because of poison ivy and location. Jan 6, 2015
Tim McGivern
Medford, ma
Tim McGivern   Medford, ma
Hey Jbraman, where is this "new" area you are talking about? One of my pastimes is exploring less climbed areas around the north side of the city (Fells, Melrose, etc.), so I'd love to exchange information with you, and I'll also reiterate the fact that there is no such thing as a new area around here. Maybe a new boulder or two, but even that is unlikely. Also, please understand that not all climbers are sport climbers. There is nothing worse than a bolt war. Redrocks has suffered terribly from bolt wars. Don't be afraid of top roping. With so many tiny cliffs around here, it is the norm. Welcome to local ethics. Everywhere has them. Jan 4, 2015
Tim McGivern
Medford, ma
Tim McGivern   Medford, ma
Anybody know which line is Central Scrutinizer at Hard Knox Rocks in Melrose? I've narrowed it down to two. The overhung arete on the right, or up the middle of the face on the slopers. Any helpers? Aug 17, 2014
losbill  
So who was out at Crow Hill working Jane on Sunday 2/2/2014? Neglected to introduce myself. Could use some new cold weather partners since Doug moved away and Kevin is involved in coaching his girls in basketball! Despite my decrepit appearance and the fact I had a grandson in tow, I am steady on belay, can consistently top rope CroMag, and will someday get the crux of Jane (on toprope!). On the negative side I do drink a fair amount of beer and have been known to bring a bit of whiskey along on the really cold days. Feb 5, 2014
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
JD1984, there can be one. All it takes is someone to do so. I never climbed ice in MA. If you are inspired, have at it!

Edit: if you want, I can start it for you...like we did in Colorado's section. Feb 3, 2014
JD1984
Worcester, MA
JD1984   Worcester, MA
I'm a bit surprised that there is not a section dedicated to ice climbing in MA. Feb 2, 2014
What happened to Langfords Road near Gloucester? Oct 20, 2013
B-Mkll Mackall
Bozeman, MT
B-Mkll Mackall   Bozeman, MT
Someone should work on a Great Barrington section for here... wish some beta existed! Is there a moratorium a la Farley? Sep 29, 2013
trundlebum
Las Vegas NV
trundlebum   Las Vegas NV
A good resource for some early info:
Climbing in Eastern Massachucetts
by Steve with Sam Streibert Hendrick
"" Sep 6, 2013
Okay.... Purgatory Chasm, circa 1975. My buddy Tom (right) and I were juniors in high school, and my brother George (left) was still in Middle School. At this point, we had done things like a winter ascent of Mt. Washington and were feeling pretty cocky.
Aug 4, 2013
jbraman
boston, ma
jbraman   boston, ma
Thanks for the info. Though not real excited about top-roping (in general), leading on thin pro/rock, or high-balling over sketchy ground. Definitely wish the East Coast didn't have the Puritan mentality. The rest of the US is more open to making rock accessible as far as I can tell.... May 4, 2013
Quote: "Hey all. I just moved from the west, where there are tons of sport routes. I have been exploring a new area in the Boston area on public land. It has never been climbed as far as I can tell. If I put up bolted routes, will I be roughing up someones feathers? A few bolts would make some really sketchy, highball (25 ft), 5.11 problems some fun, short leads....
Thanks"

Brian is right. Not to discourage your efforts, but it's highly unlikely that you would find an area in eastern MA that has never been climbed -- especially in the Boston area -- so please, please do some homework before bolting anything. In general, bolting is not encouraged in Eastern MA where the cliffs are pretty small and there is history of top-roping and bold lead ascents and solos. If you want to develop an area, start by posting it up here. Other climbers will enjoy hearing about it and may chime in with some history. There is a lot of cool, really helpful development that you can do for the climbing community without bolting. So please post it up!

Jim Apr 19, 2013
Brian
North Kingstown, RI
Brian   North Kingstown, RI
"A 'new' area on public land that has never been climbed before." There is no such thing in the east. Also just because it is public land, bolting may not be legal.

>>>Hey all. I just moved from the west, where there are tons of sport routes. I have been exploring a new area in the Boston area on public land. It has never been climbed as far as I can tell. If I put up bolted routes, will I be roughing up someones feathers? A few bolts would make some really sketchy, highball (25 ft), 5.11 problems some fun, short leads....
Thanks Apr 19, 2013
jbraman
boston, ma
jbraman   boston, ma
Hey, all. I just moved from the west, where there are tons of sport routes. I have been exploring a new area in the Boston area on public land. It has never been climbed as far as I can tell. If I put up bolted routes, will I be roughing up someones feathers? A few bolts would make some really sketchy, highball (25 ft), 5.11 problems some fun, short leads....
Thanks Apr 18, 2013
Jcomeau
North Conway
Jcomeau   North Conway
Tim, that stuff should be in the Boston Rocks book. At least Black and White Rocks. Jan 29, 2013
Tim McGivern
Medford, ma
Tim McGivern   Medford, ma
I've been exploring the Black and White rocks area as well as crags and boulders in Melrose recently. Just walking around the Middlesex Fells in the B&W vicinity, I'm finding numerous boulder problems and a short route here and there that aren't listed anywhere that I can tell. Also, on the other side of Fellsway East near Boojum Rock extending all the way over to the Flynn Rink area, I walked past at least a dozen decent looking problems. Also in the Melrose area are Hard Knox Rocks, Lebanon Street Playground, and Greenwood Cliffs. A little north and you have Breakheart Reservation and Powerline Boulders in Wakefield and Peabody. Lots of boulders around here for sure. Dec 23, 2012
JD1984
Worcester, MA
JD1984   Worcester, MA
Does anyone have any information about Forty Caves in Clinton/Berlin? Explored the area and found dozens of climbable boulders, some with chalk on the more obvious routes. There doesn't appear to be any access issues, as it is all on conservation land and boulders are as high as 30 feet in some places. Lots of potential here... anyone know of any existing routes? Any nearby trad routes? Nov 2, 2012
Jcomeau
North Conway
Jcomeau   North Conway
Anyone ever climb at Shining Rock in Northbridge? Jun 6, 2012
Chris McNeil
Anchorage, AK
Chris McNeil   Anchorage, AK
There has been talk of creating a Cape Ann climbing association. This small little area of the North Shore has such an unbelievable amount of rock that is widely forgotten...even by locals! Check out the Redrock and the Cape Ann pages for developments in revived crags, bouldering areas, quarries, access issues and/or resolutions. Several of us have been very active at working towards getting this area restored to the real potential that's out here. Once the rock thaws, I highly suggest coming out for a day trip. Jan 23, 2012
Rich Brereton
Pownal, ME
Rich Brereton   Pownal, ME
I'm amazed with the awesome job the Western Mass Climbers' Coalition has done preserving access to and conserving areas like Farley, Mormon, Rose, etc.

In eastern Mass, the access problems and environmental issues are just as tough as they used to be out west. Why no organization that builds consensus and leads the way on access and conservation? Why the ongoing squabbles over bolts, retrobolting, and FA history? Surely we can all agree on a best course of action for taking care of the limited rock we all share in our backyard.

We need an EMCC for this half of the state! Nov 9, 2011
John Richardson
Greenfield, Ma
John Richardson   Greenfield, Ma
Hello All,

Just wanted to share a website that I've created with the MountainProject community, so check out Beer and Climbing and feel free to let me know what you think!

Hope you enjoy - it's young, and there will be more content coming soon!

-John Apr 29, 2011
DFrench
Cape Ann
DFrench   Cape Ann
Michael,

What specific areas are you talking about? I agree that there could be a few more inconspicuous anchors, but this just wouldn't fly in certain places without ruffling some local feathers. Perhaps bringing it up in the forums is a step in the right direction, though it would help to know what crag you're climbing at.

-Doug Sep 8, 2010
I recently moved to Massachusetts, so I'm not extremely savvy on the local etiquette. I've noticed there are a lot of disclaimers about the wear on the trees being used as toprope anchors. Is there a reason that bolted toprope anchors haven't been added to some of the more popular areas? I'm from the west where it seems that bolts are a lot more common. It just seems to me that a few inconspicuous bolts would have far less impact on the local crags and a few trees would be saved. Thoughts? Sep 7, 2010
New to the Northshore....

Is anyone involved with the Tuesday Night Climbing Club(ish)?

I was at Waitts this past Tuesday, but it was just me and the poison ivy. Aug 5, 2010
Please add Central Rock Gym, Worcester, MA to you list of MA gyms. Apr 20, 2010
Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
You guys should submit some photos of these areas. Jun 5, 2007
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
Jim, thanks! I never was very good at that his story stuff. Feb 11, 2007

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