Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,697 total · 14/month
Shared By: kurthicks on Apr 6, 2009
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer, jim.dangle

You & This Route


9 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Raven Closure & Parking Details

Description

This is the tight chimney, not quite a squeeze, that is situated about 50' left of the stone staircase on the left side of Africa Buttress. Climb inside the chimney from the base or face climb the outside for the lower half, get in the belly of the beast, and shimmy and thrutch your way to the top. An unusual route for the area and a must do.

Location

There are two large roofs at Mormon Hollow. This route climbs the wide crack on the left of the righthand roof (the "Africa Buttress").

Protection

There is no gear for the lower half of the route. Above that a single set of cams from 0.5" - 3" will protect in horizontal cracks. The route can be top roped off of trees if the runout is intimidating.

Photos

Coz Teplitz
Watertown, MA
Coz Teplitz   Watertown, MA
After entering the chimney, it is possible to chimney straight sideways into the chasm and pop out of a hole ~20 feet from the edge. This doesn't increase the difficulty at all, and is a fun adventure. You pop out right by the central staircase, so it's convenient as well! Jun 5, 2011