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Routes in Mormon Hollow

1. Unnamed route (left side) S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
13. (Central Buttress Far Left Slab Route) S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
14. T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
15. T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
15a. Direct start to 15 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Arrhythmia S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Bird Battle S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Cardiac Arete (aka route 8) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chimney, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Don't Sweat the Small Stuff S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Excessive Force S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Excessive Tunnel Power S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Methodical Madness T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Original Sin T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Power Dive S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Priapism S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pulchritudinous Panda T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tidal Wave (route 2) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tree Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tunnel Vision S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,516 total, 14/month
Shared By: kurthicks on Apr 6, 2009
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer

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Raven Closure Details

Description

This is the tight chimney, not quite a squeeze, that is situated about 50' left of the stone staircase on the left side of Africa Buttress. Climb inside the chimney from the base or face climb the outside for the lower half, get in the belly of the beast, and shimmy and thrutch your way to the top. An unusual route for the area and a must do.

Location

There are two large roofs at Mormon Hollow. This route climbs the wide crack on the left of the righthand roof (the "Africa Buttress").

Protection

There is no gear for the lower half of the route. Above that a single set of cams from 0.5" - 3" will protect in horizontal cracks. The route can be top roped off of trees if the runout is intimidating.

Photos

Coz Teplitz
Watertown, MA
Coz Teplitz   Watertown, MA
After entering the chimney, it is possible to chimney straight sideways into the chasm and pop out of a hole ~20 feet from the edge. This doesn't increase the difficulty at all, and is a fun adventure. You pop out right by the central staircase, so it's convenient as well! Jun 5, 2011