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Routes in Mormon Hollow

1. Unnamed route (left side) AKA Hang Ten S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
13. (Central Buttress Far Left Slab Route) S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
14. T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
15. T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
15a. Direct start to 15 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
19 - Unknown slab 4 S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Arrhythmia S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Bird Battle S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Cardiac Arete (aka route 8) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cardiac Bypass Direct TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Chimney, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Don't Sweat the Small Stuff S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Excessive Force S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Excessive Tunnel Power S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Methodical Madness T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Original Sin T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pinch the Slick S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Power Dive S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Priapism S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pulchritudinous Panda T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tidal Wave (route 2) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tree Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tunnel Vision S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Unknown T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown Megaflake S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unknown Slab 2 S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown Slab 3 S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Zizag Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,588 total · 14/month
Shared By: kurthicks on Apr 6, 2009
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer, jim.dangle

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Access Issue: Raven Closure Details

Description [Suggest Change]

This is the tight chimney, not quite a squeeze, that is situated about 50' left of the stone staircase on the left side of Africa Buttress. Climb inside the chimney from the base or face climb the outside for the lower half, get in the belly of the beast, and shimmy and thrutch your way to the top. An unusual route for the area and a must do.

Location [Suggest Change]

There are two large roofs at Mormon Hollow. This route climbs the wide crack on the left of the righthand roof (the "Africa Buttress").

Protection [Suggest Change]

There is no gear for the lower half of the route. Above that a single set of cams from 0.5" - 3" will protect in horizontal cracks. The route can be top roped off of trees if the runout is intimidating.

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Coz Teplitz
Watertown, MA
Coz Teplitz   Watertown, MA
After entering the chimney, it is possible to chimney straight sideways into the chasm and pop out of a hole ~20 feet from the edge. This doesn't increase the difficulty at all, and is a fun adventure. You pop out right by the central staircase, so it's convenient as well! Jun 5, 2011

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