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Routes in Mormon Hollow

1. Unnamed route (left side) S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
13. (Central Buttress Far Left Slab Route) S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
14. T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
15. T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
15a. Direct start to 15 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Arrhythmia S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Bird Battle S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Cardiac Arete (aka route 8) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chimney, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Don't Sweat the Small Stuff S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Excessive Force S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Excessive Tunnel Power S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Methodical Madness T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Original Sin T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Power Dive S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Priapism S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pulchritudinous Panda T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tidal Wave (route 2) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tree Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tunnel Vision S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 563 total · 22/month
Shared By: Zach Swanson on Dec 8, 2015
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer

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Raven Closure Details

Description

Powerful burly moves up the sharp arrete of the Africa Buttress, hanging over the built-up staircase.

Used to have some gnarly falls but has been rebolted recently and seems to have less potential for injury.

Location

Easily found on the Africa-shaped formation between the Power Drive/Excessive Force roof and the Priapism corner. A built-up staircase wraps the arrete to the topout. You can't miss it.

Protection

5 wavebolts
Bolts for anchor (bring two draws) at the top, and you can top-out and walk off down the staircase. Anchor will need to be cleaned from the top, there are no chains/rings/quickclips.

You might consider stick clipping bolts #1 and #2, as the first bolt primarily just gets the rope in-line and will do little to prevent you from decking if you fall above it.

Photos

Cavan O
Somerville, MA
Cavan O   Somerville, MA
Update to the description, there are only 4 bolts plus anchors that I can remember. Also i think starting on the face jug (that can be used to put the first bolt in) and then making your way out and up left to the ArĂȘte makes the climb a bit harder then just starting on the ArĂȘte. Oct 17, 2016