Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,024 total · 32/month
Shared By: Paul Crowder on Mar 12, 2006
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer, jim.dangle

You & This Route


61 Opinions

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Description

This is a face and flake climb with a (formerly) Tennessee-shaped flake near its top. It is a bit runout at the top if you choose to lead it. Rated 5.7 in the 1970s, the loss of a key part of the Tennessee flake since that time has resulted in a change in grade to a current consensus of 5.9 to 5.11, depending upon your reach. To most folks, the crux of this route will seem like pretty solid 5.10, with small crimpy handholds, delicate, balancy footwork, and a long reach to more reassuring holds near the top of the route.

Protection

TR, or a trad rack, including nuts and cams.

Photos

GoBotRocker
Spfld, Ma
GoBotRocker   Spfld, Ma
Tennessee Flake, much easier B4 "the flake" took a ride. It has at least 2 variations. 1st var, from the pedestal climb left on an arching ripple (5.10 or so). There is another variation that works to the right (just a bit) to surmount the pedestal, it's very delicate.

Solar Flare, 5.11b, is also a variation off the main route 1/3 the way up. A left-arching crack leads to a vertical seam. With 2 buckets and 2 cruxes on the climb, you'll be happy to have strong fingers and a cool day, as warm weather makes all the routes at Rose greasy, especially this one. Feb 17, 2007
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.10-
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.10-
This climb is very fun, a great climb! I think it would protect very well on gear, maybe having a little runout (gear by your feet when finishing the crux). I highly recommend this climb! Dec 2, 2011
Climbed this yesterday with a couple people shorter than myself. We didn't believe the "consensus 5.9 to 5.11" before, but afterwards came to the same conclusion. Wingspan of 5'11" or greater, it's 5.9. Wingspan of 5'9" or less, it's at least 5.11. Apr 8, 2013
SP Boston
Watertown, MA
  5.9
SP Boston   Watertown, MA
  5.9
A nice change of pace after doing Guillotine, this classic is steep and requires some layback and balance moves, as well as some carefully timed high stepping with small hand holds. Others rate it 5.10 and higher, and suggest that the finish is rather height dependent. At 5' 10" and 6' 1" neither of us had a problem with the finish, so the hard finish might enter into the equation somewhere below 5' 10" in height. Another in-your-face route for gym climbers transitioning to finding good holds outdoors.

Some of the rock is so chalky that it is getting a little slick. May 27, 2014