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Routes in Rose Ledge

Beginner's (aka Easy Corner) T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Bishop V2 5+
Chimney, The TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Deadpoint V1 5
Delaney's Arete T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Double Helix (aka Rikert's Corner) T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
En Passant V2 5+
Everything is Purple V12 8A+
Fun Crack (aka Fist Fight) T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Greeting Crack T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Guillotine (aka Double Overhead Cam) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hampshire Corner T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Indian Summer Arete TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Joe Brown Special T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
King Phillip's Face TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lip, The V2 5+
Lunge Roof (aka Rhino Dyno, or Gunks Roof) T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Marie Antoinette TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Off Width (aka Stetson Stumble) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Paper Guillotine V3 6A
Partners in Climb T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Pawn V1 5
Pendulum (aka Ben's Boot) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Playland T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pommel Horse V3 6A
Right Twin Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rook V5 6C
Rook Direct V4 6B
Rose Rash TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sideline TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Snake Eyes V2 5+
Solar Flare T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Straight Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Summer Stroll T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tale of Two Cities (aka Whoops) T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tennessee T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tiger Walk T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Unknown V3/4 V3-4 6A+
Uppercut V3 6A
Widowmaker (aka Leave it to Beaver) TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,911 total, 16/month
Shared By: Zigs on Mar 27, 2008
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer

You & This Route


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Description

This is hands-down my favorite climb at Rose Ledge. It has two distinct and great cruxes, wonderful face climbing, a short but relatively splitter crack, a juggy roof and some sequency crimping. I'm a little uncertain as to whether the rest of the Western, MA climbing community would agree with me about how classic I think this route is (it was one of my first 5.10's so I'm biased) but I'll let you make up your own minds.
The climb starts in the obvious finger crack just to the left of the big left facing corner in the middle of the Tennessee wall (the Guillotine). After climbing this crack to a large ledge you can rest and chat with your belayer before the first crux. Follow the chalk above your head (really fun sequence) until you've gained a stance involving a small flake and edges for feet. Then some easy climbing leads you to the roof on your left and crux #2. A reachy move past the roof leads to a jug, from which you can gain a good crimp and pull the roof on smeary feet. This section looks blank put there is a great jug...if you can find it. At this point, mantle onto the ledge and touch the anchors.

Location

On the Main cliff or Tennessee wall at Rose Ledge, Marie Antoinette climbs the face to the immediate left of the Guillotine. You'll be able to recognize it both by the chalked crimps on otherwise blank-looking rock about halfway up, and the small roof with the two chalk ticks in a crack on the underside of it near the top (right above the chalked up crimps).

Protection

You have three options for pro. Traditionally, folks use long webbing or static line to set up a TR. However, the only usable rocks and trees are around 30 feet back from the edge of the cliff, so, if you choose this method, bring a LOT of webbing.

If you don't have long webbing (like I don't), there are a couple of flakes right at the top of the cliff that take bomber gear (1 #1, 2 #2s, and a #3 Camalot). There is a tree that you can anchor yourself to right at the top of the climb to find the placements initially, but once you know where they are, it's super easy to reach down and place your gear from above. There is a staircase on the right side of the cliff that accesses the top, although descending these stairs is easily the most harrowing part of any Rose Ledge experience.

If you do feel the need, I suppose you could lead it on gear, although it would certainly warrant at least an R rating. The gear would be small, and a fall from the first crux would be ledgy at best and a grounder at worst.

Photos

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jrathfon
5.10a PG13
jrathfon  
5.10a PG13
Definitely goes, more like PG-13, don't place gear in the flakes! Have a tight belay for sure, I've never taken the ride, but that ledge would be awfully close. May 6, 2009
I did this the other day and there are two nice top roping bolts atop this route. Mar 29, 2009