Routes in Rose Ledge
|Beginner's (aka Easy Corner) T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Bishop V2 5+|
|Chimney, The TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Deadpoint V1 5|
|Delaney's Arete T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13|
|Double Helix (aka Rikert's Corner) T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|En Passant V2 5+|
|Everything is Purple V12 8A+|
|Fun Crack (aka Fist Fight) T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c|
|Greeting Crack T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Guillotine (aka Double Overhead Cam) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Hampshire Corner T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Indian Summer Arete TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Joe Brown Special T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|King Phillip's Face TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Lip, The V2 5+|
|Lunge Roof (aka Rhino Dyno, or Gunks Roof) T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Marie Antoinette TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b|
|Off Width (aka Stetson Stumble) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Paper Guillotine V3 6A|
|Partners in Climb T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13|
|Pawn V1 5|
|Pendulum (aka Ben's Boot) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Playland T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Pommel Horse V3 6A|
|Right Twin Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Rook V5 6C|
|Rook Direct V4 6B|
|Rose Rash TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Sideline TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Snake Eyes V2 5+|
|Solar Flare T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13|
|Straight Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Summer Stroll T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Tale of Two Cities (aka Whoops) T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Tennessee T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Tiger Walk T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Unknown V3/4 V3-4 6A+|
|Uppercut V3 6A|
|Widowmaker (aka Leave it to Beaver) TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|GPS:||42.611, -72.471 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Shared By:||Paul Crowder on Mar 12, 2006|
|Admins:||Joe M., Old Timer|
DescriptionRose Ledge consists of a series of small cliffs on the east side of the Connecticut River Valley, in very north central Massachusetts. Rose Ledge is principally a toprope area because the cliffs are quite short - not much more than 50 feet high, at most. Many of the routes can be led using a trad rack if you're so inclined, and there are a number of routes with pretty moderate grades, which makes Rose Ledge a great place to learn how to lead with trad gear. There are really no sport routes at Rose, due to the traditional ethic that is the norm at this crag. What Rose Ledge lacks in size, it makes up for in quality. It's absolutely worth a visit if you're in the area.
Rose Ledge is located on Northfield Mountain. Northfield Mountain is owned and operated by FirstLight Power Resources, formerly Northeast Utilities, which is a local utility. FirstLight has a hydroelectric reservoir at the top of Northfield Mountain, and you'll see related electrical infrastructure - overhead power lines, an electrical substation near FirstLight's Northfield Mountain Visitor Center, etc. - on your approach to Rose Ledge. FirstLight hosts summer outdoor programs and a winter cross-country ski area on the mountain, and Northfield Mountain's trails are popular with hikers and mountain bikers. A number of schools, colleges and universities in the area teach introductory rock climbing at Rose Ledge, and climbers regularly visit Rose from at least as far away as Boston.
The rock at Rose Ledge is horizontally stratified gneiss. The rock is pretty solid, and Rose Ledge is home to routes that range from 5.3 or so up through 5.13. There are a number of really popular routes at Rose. These routes date to at least the early 1970s, when Rose Ledge was frequented by Dave Rikert, and then by Al DeMaria of Vulgarian fame and Al's students and instructors from his excellent outdoors and rock climbing programs at the nearby Northfield Mount Hermon School (NMH). These routes -- including Fist Fight, Tennessee, Double Overhead Cam, Leave it to Beaver, Rikert's Corner, and Ben's Boot -- have been given these names -- the names that Al and his programs used in the mid-1970's -- on an "Also Kown As" ("aka") basis in this online guide, with modern route names used first, in order to make it easier for today's visitors to find these routes.
As of 2009, Al Rubin's excellent guide, "Rose Ledge Rock Climbs (2nd Edition)," is once again in print, and this guide is an encyclopedic source of information on rock climbing at Rose that provides far more information than we've assembled here, and Al's guide also includes a lot of information on routes that are less heavily used. As of January 2012, this writer was able to acquire a copy of Al's guide via the Western Massachusetts Climbers Coalition website (see below). It's possible that Al's guide is also available elsewhere, either online or in a retail shop. Please consider supporting Al's efforts by buying a copy of his guide.
Getting ThereDriving Directions: (From the FirstLight Power Resources website)
Northfield Mountain is located on Route 63, two miles north of Route 2, or five miles south of Route 10, in Northfield, Massachusetts.
TRAVELING NORTH ON I-91:
Travel Route 91 North to Exit 27.
Travel Route 2 East for eight miles.
Turn left onto Route 63 North. Travel two miles. Northfield Mountain is on the right.
TRAVELING SOUTH ON I-91:
Travel Route 91 South to Exit 28.
Turn left onto Route 10 North for five miles (heading toward Northfield).
Turn right onto Route 63 South for five miles. Northfield Mountain is on the left.
TRAVELING FROM THE EAST:
Take Route 2 West. Approximately 6.5 miles after the Erving Paper Mill, take a right onto Route 63 North.
Follow Route 63 for 2 miles. Northfield Mountain is on the right.
TRAVELING FROM THE WEST:
Take Route 2 East to Greenfield. Travel on Route 2 East/Route 91 north, getting off at Exit 27. Continue on Route 2 East for approximately 8 miles to Route 63 North.
Turn left onto Route 63 North. Northfield Mountain is 2 miles up on the right.
Parking: Northfield Mountain has a Visitor Center, which is the most spacious option for parking. Please use the Visitor Center if you're bringing a dog to Rose Ledge. There is also a small parking area on private property on Poplar Mountain Road. Poplar Mountain Road is the first street on the east side of Route 63, south of Northfield Mountain. The Poplar Mountain Road parking area is about 1/4 mile up Poplar Mountain Road, on the left, across the street from an obvious private garage. This lot is private property and the owners have been gracious enough to allow cars to park here for years, so please be considerate. If there's a fee box in the lot, please pay to park in the Poplar Mountain Road parking lot.
Approaching from FirstLight Power's Northfield Mountain Visitor Center parking lot: Walk south on the Jug End trail (a ski trail in winter), beneath high tension power lines, until you reach the Rock Oak Ramble trail on the left. Rock Oak Ramble is a well maintained foot trail - a ski trail in winter - that climbs steadily up the mountain. Take the second right onto the Rose Ledge Foot Trail just before the main trail trends somewhat steeply uphill toward Yellowjacket Pass. This intersection is marked, as of Summer 2007, with a sign that points out both the way to Yellowjacket Pass, and the turn onto Rose Ledge Foot Trail. As you walk up the Rose Ledge Foot Train, Rose Ledge will begin to appear through the woods on the left side of the trail, initially as low, somewhat rambling outcrops, and then as increasingly taller cliffs. Approach time: About 35 minutes.
Approaching from the Poplar Mountain Road parking lot: Walk up the hill to the end of the paved road, and then up a trail that angles somewhat left into the woods. Cross the Jug End Trail at a high tension power line and walk up Rock Oak Ramble, approaching Rose Ledge as for the approach from the Northfield Mountain Visitor Center. Approach time: About 20 minutes.
Classic Climbing Routes at Rose Ledge
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season