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Routes in Rose Ledge

Beginner's (aka Easy Corner) T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bishop V2 5+
Camp Corner T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Chimney, The TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Deadpoint V1 5
Delaney's Arete T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Double Helix (aka Rikert's Corner) T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
En Passant V2 5+
Everything is Purple V12 8A+
Fun Crack (aka Fist Fight) T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Greeting Crack T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Guillotine (aka Double Overhead Cam) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hampshire Corner T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Indian Summer Arete TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Joe Brown Special T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
King Phillip's Face TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lip, The V2 5+
Lunge Roof (aka Rhino Dyno, or Gunks Roof) T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Marie Antoinette TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Off Width (aka Stetson Stumble) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Paper Guillotine V3 6A
Partners in Climb T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Pawn V1 5
Pendulum (aka Ben's Boot) T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Playland T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pommel Horse V3 6A
Right Twin Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rook V5 6C
Rook Direct V4 6B
Sideline TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Snake Eyes V2 5+
Solar Flare T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Straight Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Summer Stroll T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tale of Two Cities (aka Whoops) T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tennessee T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tiger Walk T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Unknown V3/4 V3-4 6A+
Uppercut V3 6A
Widowmaker (aka Leave it to Beaver) TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: Unknown (Please let me know if you have history on this)
Page Views: 1,963 total · 16/month
Shared By: Chris Hillios on May 4, 2008 with updates from Read Januskiewiecz
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer, jim.dangle

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Description

This climb is located on "Overhang Buttress"

Start in the short, right-facing corner. Continue up over small upper overhang.

Location

This is located on Overhang Buttress - right of the gap from Main Face.

Protection

TR from top.

Per Read Januskiewiecz, TR from the top or lead with small nuts up to the dyno. Then small to medium-sized cams to the top.

Photos

SP Boston
Watertown, MA
  5.10a
SP Boston   Watertown, MA
  5.10a
After a very awkward and challenging start that we bypassed by entering from climber's left rather than the right side, this route gets wild! Enter a low ceiling with a thin horizontal finger crack above your head for balance. Move up quickly to horizontal jugs, and position your feet for the lung to the rhino horn. At 5' 10" and 6' 1" there was no dyno involved, but rather a very committing upward move under the roof, with a nice swing forming on the top rope to boot! Overcoming the roof is hard work but huge jugs help the transition to steep 5.8 face climbing to the top (made more difficult by tired arms from the work below).

Several spots made me think for sure I was at the Gunks, not in the jungle of western Mass. May 27, 2014
Alissa Doherty
Boston, MA
Alissa Doherty   Boston, MA
This route is a real gem. It has a techy start into a burly roof to a nice face. I'm 5'5" with a wingspan slightly less and had no problem doing the dyno statically. It requires a very high foot and solid lockoff, but doesn't increase the difficulty more than a grade. Most short climbers are probably accustomed to working around reaches with that move anyway :) Jul 18, 2014
Jon R  
This thing is a great lead too, G rated! Nov 12, 2015
Joe M.    
From John Gassel:

There are now some bolts for top rope anchors. They sit back pretty far from the edge so plan on using a static line or some long webbing. Nov 17, 2017
Joe M.    
From Greg Dematteo:

This was THE testpiece back in high school. We always called it "The Lunge." Never heard of it as "Rhino Dyno"....must be a newer name for it. Glad to see that people are still there keeping it alive. I hope those poor little trees on top aren't being used anymore. It's probably worth advocating for some TR bolts on some of these routes. Nov 17, 2017

More About Lunge Roof (aka Rhino Dyno, or Gunks Roof)

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