Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: Unknown (Please let me know if you have history on this)
Page Views: 2,151 total · 16/month
Shared By: Chris Hillios on May 4, 2008 with updates from Read Januskiewiecz
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer, jim.dangle

You & This Route


40 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This climb is located on "Overhang Buttress"

Start in the short, right-facing corner. Continue up over small upper overhang.

Location

This is located on Overhang Buttress - right of the gap from Main Face.

Protection

TR from top.

Per Read Januskiewiecz, TR from the top or lead with small nuts up to the dyno. Then small to medium-sized cams to the top.

Photos

SP Boston
Watertown, MA
  5.10a
SP Boston   Watertown, MA
  5.10a
After a very awkward and challenging start that we bypassed by entering from climber's left rather than the right side, this route gets wild! Enter a low ceiling with a thin horizontal finger crack above your head for balance. Move up quickly to horizontal jugs, and position your feet for the lung to the rhino horn. At 5' 10" and 6' 1" there was no dyno involved, but rather a very committing upward move under the roof, with a nice swing forming on the top rope to boot! Overcoming the roof is hard work but huge jugs help the transition to steep 5.8 face climbing to the top (made more difficult by tired arms from the work below).

Several spots made me think for sure I was at the Gunks, not in the jungle of western Mass. May 27, 2014
Alissa Doherty
Boston, MA
Alissa Doherty   Boston, MA
This route is a real gem. It has a techy start into a burly roof to a nice face. I'm 5'5" with a wingspan slightly less and had no problem doing the dyno statically. It requires a very high foot and solid lockoff, but doesn't increase the difficulty more than a grade. Most short climbers are probably accustomed to working around reaches with that move anyway :) Jul 18, 2014
Jon R  
This thing is a great lead too, G rated! Nov 12, 2015
Joe M.    
From John Gassel:

There are now some bolts for top rope anchors. They sit back pretty far from the edge so plan on using a static line or some long webbing. Nov 17, 2017
Joe M.    
From Greg Dematteo:

This was THE testpiece back in high school. We always called it "The Lunge." Never heard of it as "Rhino Dyno"....must be a newer name for it. Glad to see that people are still there keeping it alive. I hope those poor little trees on top aren't being used anymore. It's probably worth advocating for some TR bolts on some of these routes. Nov 17, 2017