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Routes in Rose Ledge

Beginner's (aka Easy Corner) T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bishop V2 5+
Camp Corner T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Chimney, The TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Deadpoint V1 5
Delaney's Arete T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Double Helix (aka Rikert's Corner) T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
En Passant V2 5+
Everything is Purple V12 8A+
Fun Crack (aka Fist Fight) T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Greeting Crack T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Guillotine (aka Double Overhead Cam) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hampshire Corner T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Indian Summer Arete TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Joe Brown Special T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
King Phillip's Face TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lip, The V2 5+
Lunge Roof (aka Rhino Dyno, or Gunks Roof) T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Marie Antoinette TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Off Width (aka Stetson Stumble) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Paper Guillotine V3 6A
Partners in Climb T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Pawn V1 5
Pendulum (aka Ben's Boot) T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Playland T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pommel Horse V3 6A
Right Twin Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rook V5 6C
Rook Direct V4 6B
Sideline TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Snake Eyes V2 5+
Solar Flare T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Straight Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Summer Stroll T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tale of Two Cities (aka Whoops) T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tennessee T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tiger Walk T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Unknown V3/4 V3-4 6A+
Uppercut V3 6A
Widowmaker (aka Leave it to Beaver) TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,737 total · 31/month
Shared By: Paul Crowder on Mar 12, 2006
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer, jim.dangle

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Description

Begin in a left-facing dihedral to the right of Tennessee. Climb the dihedral to an overhang on the right. Pass the overhang with some difficulty, and step up a few moves to the top of the crag. It is easier if you're tall. The crack that ascends part of the face on the left of the dihedral is a separate climb, but can also be used to climb the first part of this route.

Protection

TR, or easily protected with a traditional rack, including nuts and small to large cams.

Photos

GoBotRocker
Spfld, Ma
GoBotRocker   Spfld, Ma
Another great climb. The roof is not as difficult as it might look, remember it's only 5.8. Also makes a great lead. Feb 17, 2007
Greg DeMatteo
W. Lebanon, NH
  5.8
Greg DeMatteo   W. Lebanon, NH
  5.8
The Rose Ledge classic! Man do I have some memories of this place!! May 17, 2007
SP Boston
Watertown, MA
  5.8-
SP Boston   Watertown, MA
  5.8-
This route has a good combination of stem and mantle moves down low and ceiling and juggy moves up high. It has long been a favorite of mine in the area and even though it was buggy on Memorial Day, it was good to be back on Guillotine. A good route for strong gym climbers making the transition to real rock. May 27, 2014
Sam J
  5.8
Sam J  
  5.8
Definitely would recommend bringing at 1-2 #2/#3 for the fist jam section before the roof. Apr 17, 2016

More About Guillotine (aka Double Overhead Cam)

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