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Routes in Rose Ledge

Beginner's (aka Easy Corner) T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bishop V2 5+
Camp Corner T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Chimney, The TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Deadpoint V1 5
Delaney's Arete T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Double Helix (aka Rikert's Corner) T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
En Passant V2 5+
Everything is Purple V12 8A+
Fun Crack (aka Fist Fight) T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Greeting Crack T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Guillotine (aka Double Overhead Cam) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hampshire Corner T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Indian Summer Arete TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Joe Brown Special T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
King Phillip's Face TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lip, The V2 5+
Lunge Roof (aka Rhino Dyno, or Gunks Roof) T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Marie Antoinette TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Off Width (aka Stetson Stumble) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Paper Guillotine V3 6A
Partners in Climb T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Pawn V1 5
Pendulum (aka Ben's Boot) T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Playland T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pommel Horse V3 6A
Right Twin Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rook V5 6C
Rook Direct V4 6B
Sideline TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Snake Eyes V2 5+
Solar Flare T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Straight Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Summer Stroll T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tale of Two Cities (aka Whoops) T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tennessee T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tiger Walk T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Unknown V3/4 V3-4 6A+
Uppercut V3 6A
Widowmaker (aka Leave it to Beaver) TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
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Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: Brian Delaney, 1970s
Page Views: 1,289 total · 16/month
Shared By: Rich Brereton on Nov 9, 2011
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer, jim.dangle

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Description [Suggest Change]

Traverse in from the right. Climb the arete to the top.

Location [Suggest Change]

Climb the obvious left arete of the main face 15 feet left of the start to Tennessee.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Horizontals for pro. It can be toproped from a tree anchor at the top of the cliff.

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M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
So what makes this 40 foot route 4 stars? What did you like about it? Nov 9, 2011
Rich Brereton
Pownal, ME
  5.11+ PG13
Rich Brereton   Pownal, ME
  5.11+ PG13
M Sprague, I added Delaney's Arete and gave it 4 stars because it's an area classic. The position on the arete and the climbing are great. It was also contributed by a badass New England/Colorado climber back when 5.11 was a testpiece grade in the region. It doesn't get the traffic it deserves, while the routes right next to it get toproped to death by huge parties. Please climb it and see what you think! Nov 12, 2011
Jimmy Downhillinthesnow
Bozeman, Montana
Jimmy Downhillinthesnow   Bozeman, Montana
Either I was doing it totally wrong, or this is a damn hard 11. Jul 15, 2017
Ska Ggs
 
Ska Ggs  
 
Tech, slab, balance ...things you want in an 11, but all miserable movement and not sure what makes it a 4 star ... go right 15 ft and lead Tennessee. Great and easy anchors though, so worth a burn! Mar 1, 2018
Rich Brereton
Pownal, ME
  5.11+ PG13
Rich Brereton   Pownal, ME
  5.11+ PG13
Yeah, to be perfectly honest I can't really remember this route. It's been ages. I posted it back before I really "got" mountain project. Someone who's done it recently, feel free to put a better description here in the comments, and I'll update the route page. Mar 1, 2018

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