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Tennessee
5.10-,
Trad, TR, 40 ft (12 m),
Avg: 3.3 from 102
votes
FA: unknown
Massachusetts
> Western MA
> Rose Ledge
> 02 - Main Face
Description
This is a face and flake climb with a (formerly) Tennessee-shaped flake near its top. It is a bit runout at the top if you choose to lead it. Rated 5.7 in the 1970s, the loss of a key part of the Tennessee flake since that time has resulted in a change in grade to a current consensus of 5.9 to 5.11, depending upon your reach. To most folks, the crux of this route will seem like pretty solid 5.10, with small crimpy handholds, delicate, balancy footwork, and a long reach to more reassuring holds near the top of the route.
Protection
TR, or a trad rack, including nuts and cams. 2 bolt TR anchor (hangers, no chains) at the top.
[Hide Comment] Tennessee Flake, much easier B4 "the flake" took a ride. It has at least 2 variations. 1st var, from the pedestal climb left on an arching ripple (5.10 or so). There is another variation that works to the right (just a bit) to surmount the pedestal, it's very delicate.
Solar Flare, 5.11b, is also a variation off the main route 1/3 the way up. A left-arching crack leads to a vertical seam. With 2 buckets and 2 cruxes on the climb, you'll be happy to have strong fingers and a cool day, as warm weather makes all the routes at Rose greasy, especially this one.
Feb 17, 2007
[Hide Comment] This climb is very fun, a great climb! I think it would protect very well on gear, maybe having a little runout (gear by your feet when finishing the crux). I highly recommend this climb!
Dec 2, 2011
[Hide Comment] Climbed this yesterday with a couple people shorter than myself. We didn't believe the "consensus 5.9 to 5.11" before, but afterwards came to the same conclusion. Wingspan of 5'11" or greater, it's 5.9. Wingspan of 5'9" or less, it's at least 5.11.
Apr 8, 2013
[Hide Comment] A nice change of pace after doing Guillotine, this classic is steep and requires some layback and balance moves, as well as some carefully timed high stepping with small hand holds. Others rate it 5.10 and higher, and suggest that the finish is rather height dependent. At 5' 10" and 6' 1" neither of us had a problem with the finish, so the hard finish might enter into the equation somewhere below 5' 10" in height. Another in-your-face route for gym climbers transitioning to finding good holds outdoors.
Some of the rock is so chalky that it is getting a little slick.
May 27, 2014
[Hide Comment] For me, this route was a delightful introduction to the quality climbing Rose Ledge has to offer. The route seeps right above the crux after rainy days, but it can be easily dried, as it is only a minor drip.
Avg: 3.3 from 102
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Spfld, Ma
Solar Flare, 5.11b, is also a variation off the main route 1/3 the way up. A left-arching crack leads to a vertical seam. With 2 buckets and 2 cruxes on the climb, you'll be happy to have strong fingers and a cool day, as warm weather makes all the routes at Rose greasy, especially this one. Feb 17, 2007
Center Harbor, NH
Watertown, MA
Some of the rock is so chalky that it is getting a little slick. May 27, 2014
Fitchburg, MA
First person beta here: youtube.com/watch?v=fq__eAl…. Jan 3, 2024