Elevation: | 450 ft | 137 m |
GPS: |
42.45498, -72.55399 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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Page Views: | 34,234 total · 325/month | |
Shared By: | Jameson Cycz on Apr 18, 2016 · Updates | |
Admins: | sara pax, Old Timer, jim.dangle, Joe M |
Description
The Sunbowl is a small craglett in Sunderland, MA. The cliff is composed of what is known as Mt. Toby Conglomerate which is a pockety hodge-podge of medium quality rock, a stark contrast to the gneiss in the region but a pleasant change. The Sunbowl hosts llitle more than a dozen routes overall, but they range from approximately 5.6 to 5.11 as well as a boulder traverse of the base of the cliff (~V2).
The crag stands at about 35 feet tall overall. A slabby section on the far left gives way to a slightly overhanging buttress which then leads to a steep center face and moderate right side face. All routes are well-protected sport lines with installed rappel anchors (any climb here can be climbed with 6 or fewer draws). Due to the nature of the rock here, it is best to inspect each bolt for security upon using it. Top access at the Sunbowl is poor, so the best option is to simply lead a climb then hang a top-rope.
The Sunbowl is generally southwest- facing and receives sun from at least noon onwards (hence the name). In the fall, winter, and early spring, the crag gets nice sun for warmth and in the summer is shaded well enough under the canopy of trees. A large flat rock is situated at the center of the crag and is a great staging area for gear. Remember to bring bug spray, sun screen, and sunglasses.
Getting There
From WMCC website:
Parking
From RT 116, turn onto North Silver Lane, then onto Reservoir Road. Continue on Reservoir Rd. when the pavement ends, until you come to a water tower. Park near the water tower. Please, DO NOT BLOCK GATES OR ACCESS TO THE TOWER!
Approach
Walk up the road about 20 yards, turning right into the woods on an ATV trail that crosses the stream. Continue up the hill. Before it starts to go steeply down, turn left at a fork going uphill again with short cliffs on the left. At the height of land, at a cairn, turn right onto a foot path in the woods. Follow the meandering trial using cairns to navigate, until the Sunbowl appears on your left.
This approach took 15 minutes and is an approved approach per the WMCC
Reporting Climbing Anchor or Trail Maintenance Issues to the WMCC
If you encounter an issue with a bolt anchor or a trail maintenance issue at any Western Mass crag that the WMCC stewards, please let us know about it by filling out this form: Western Massachusetts Hardware Replacement and Crag Maintenance Reporting Form
Non-Liability Policy for Fixed Anchors and Rock Climbing:
"The WMCC shall assist landowners, land managers and other pertinent individuals regarding fixed anchor applications and make recommendations concerning fixed anchors based upon aesthetic and natural resource criteria. The custom and practice in the climbing community is for individual climber members of the community to install and maintain fixed anchors and other hardware. The WMCC itself does not install or maintain any fixed anchors or other hardware and shall make no representations or warranties regarding the safety, reliability, or suitability for use of any fixed anchors or other hardware, currently existing or installed in the future, on any climbing route or otherwise. Moreover, the WMCC shall make no representations or warranties regarding the degree of hazard or danger involved, or lack thereof, on any rock climbing route or access trail."
Classic Climbing Routes at Sunbowl
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