Elevation: 450 ft
GPS: 42.455, -72.554 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 22,675 total · 368/month
Shared By: Jameson Cycz on Apr 18, 2016 · Updates
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer, jim.dangle
Access Issue: Closed Area Details

Description

The Sunbowl is a small craglett in Sunderland, MA. The cliff is composed of what is known as Mt. Toby Conglomerate which is a pockety hodge-podge of medium quality rock, a stark contrast to the gneiss in the region but a pleasant change. The Sunbowl hosts less than a dozen routes overall, but they range from approximately 5.6 to 5.11 as well as a boulder traverse of the base of the cliff (~V2).

The crag stands at about 35 feet tall overall. A slabby section on the far left gives way to a slightly overhanging buttress which then leads to a steep center face and moderate right side face. All routes are well-protected sport lines with installed rappel anchors (any climb here can be climbed with 6 or fewer draws). Due to the nature of the rock here, it is best to inspect each bolt for security upon using it. Top access at the Sunbowl is poor, so the best option is to simply lead a climb then hang a top-rope.

The Sunbowl is generally southwest- facing and receives sun from at least noon onwards (hence the name). In the fall, winter, and early spring, the crag gets nice sun for warmth and in the summer is shaded well enough under the canopy of trees. A large flat rock is situated at the center of the crag and is a great staging area for gear. Remember to bring bug spray, sun screen, and sunglasses.

Getting There

From WMCC website: 

Parking

From RT 116, turn onto North Silver Lane, then onto Reservoir Road. Continue on Reservoir Rd. when the pavement ends, until you come to a water tower. Park near the water tower. Please, DO NOT BLOCK GATES OR ACCESS TO THE TOWER!

Approach

Walk up the road about 20 yards, turning right into the woods on an ATV trail that crosses the stream. Continue up the hill. Before it starts to go steeply down, turn left at a fork going uphill again with short cliffs on the left. At the height of land, at a cairn, turn right onto a foot path in the woods. Follow the meandering trial using cairns to navigate, until the Sunbowl appears on your left.

This approach took 15 minutes and is an approved approach per the WMCC

14 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Sunbowl

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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