Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Alan Watts, Bill Ramsey, July 14 1981
Page Views: 1,187 total · 15/month
Shared By: Max Tepfer on Sep 6, 2012
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Description

Another killer stem line in the Lower Gorge! Thin, but doable moves open things up after which the difficulty slowly builds. The crux comes high on the route moving past a flare protected by bolts followed by a wild move to a jug.

Location

In between Cry of the Gerbil and Neutron Star.

Protection

Thin. Bring lots of 00 and 0 Metolius sized cams and your quiver of RPs. 0-2 Metolius cams for the opening finger crack. There are bolts at the top.

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The pins seemed alright to me. However I do agree that backing them up is worthwhile and easy enough to do Jun 25, 2014
Jon Rhoderick
Redmond, OR
 
Jon Rhoderick   Redmond, OR
 
All the pins have been pulled, and replaced with 3 bolts. There was a debate whether to retain the lowest bolt, but maybe 3 inches below the pin placement is a very bomber nut placement. I have fallen on both the pin and the nut, I felt a little more comfortable on the nut. Kent said that the 1st pin came out with 2 or 3 taps, another pin snapped it's head off and is still insitu. Because there are only 3 bolts I think this climb retains a lot of the excitement it had when it had pins. This aint no spurt climb.

I'm making a case for this being solid 12a. That's the original rating (and in the Thesenga guide), only being downgraded for sticky rubber (for comparison Sunshine was downgraded too, then upgraded). Climbing through to the first bolt is about 5.11b/c. From the last gear placement to the 3rd bolt I feel I'm pulling 3 11 or 11+ cruxes, with imperfect rests separating them. Definitely more stacked than other 11+'s I have done or tried.

But I dunno, maybe its just hard 11d... Sep 16, 2014
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
  5.11d
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
  5.11d
I've only been on it once, and can't speak too much to the grade, but almost sent first go and I don't usually do that on 12a. Also, wasn't Sunshine upgraded due to a key foothold breaking? (I think that scar on the left wall below/near the crux) I'm all for keeping rock climbing hard...

Also, I skipped the first two bolts when I went back last Spring to clean up unfinished business. There's good albeit small natural pro available. It would be a very different route without them and not entirely out of style with other LG trad climbs. Sep 20, 2014
Blake Allen Green  
  5.12a
This thing felt harder than Try to be Hip and easier than Neutron star. Think it only makes sense to call it 11d because neutron is 12a. Great gear, placed no wires at all, just cams from 00-2 metolius. Sep 7, 2015
Chuck Becker
Portland, OR
  5.12a
Chuck Becker   Portland, OR
  5.12a
I thought this felt harder than Neutron Star May 29, 2018