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Routes in (4) Star Wall

Asteroid Dust (Morning Star Extension) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cry of the Gerbil S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dark Star T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Daytime Drama S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Freon T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Johnny and the Mellonheads T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Last Days T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Left Wing T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lethal Dose T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Levitate T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mantra T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mantra Extension T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Morning Star T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Neutron Star T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
St. Paddee's Day T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tim S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Turning Point T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Alan Watts, Bill Ramsey, July 14 1981
Page Views: 871 total · 13/month
Shared By: Max Tepfer on Sep 6, 2012
Admins: Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Description

Another killer stem line in the Lower Gorge! Thin, but doable moves open things up after which the difficulty slowly builds. The crux comes high on the route moving past a flare protected by an old fixed pin (easily backed up) followed by a wild move to a jug.

Location

In between Cry of the Gerbil and Neutron Star.

Protection

Thin. Bring lots of 00 and 0 Metolius sized cams and your quiver of RPs. 0-2 Metolius cams for the opening finger crack. There are four old, slightly manky pins on the route and each can easily be backed up by small (but bomber) gear placements.

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Blake Allen Green  
  5.12a
This thing felt harder than Try to be Hip and easier than Neutron star. Think it only makes sense to call it 11d because neutron is 12a. Great gear, placed no wires at all, just cams from 00-2 metolius. Sep 7, 2015
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
 
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
 
I've only been on it once, and can't speak too much to the grade, but almost sent first go and I don't usually do that on 12a. Also, wasn't Sunshine upgraded due to a key foothold breaking? (I think that scar on the left wall below/near the crux) I'm all for keeping rock climbing hard... Sep 20, 2014
All the pins have been pulled, and replaced with 3 bolts. There was a debate whether to retain the lowest bolt, but maybe 3 inches below the pin placement is a very bomber nut placement. I have fallen on both the pin and the nut, I felt a little more comfortable on the nut. Kent said that the 1st pin came out with 2 or 3 taps, another pin snapped it's head off and is still insitu. Because there are only 3 bolts I think this climb retains a lot of the excitement it had when it had pins. This aint no spurt climb.

I'm making a case for this being solid 12a. That's the original rating (and in the Thesenga guide), only being downgraded for sticky rubber (for comparison Sunshine was downgraded too, then upgraded). Climbing through to the first bolt is about 5.11b/c, far harder than Crime Wave, maybe not as stopper as Crack-a-no-go but way more sustained and on smaller gear. From the last gear placement to the 3rd bolt I feel I'm pulling 3 11 or 11+ cruxes, with imperfect rests separating them. Definitely more stacked and with more tenuous rests than other 11+'s I have done or tried, and the cruxes are probably harder than many 12a's.

But I dunno, maybe its just hard 11d... Sep 16, 2014
The pins seemed alright to me. However I do agree that backing them up is worthwhile and easy enough to do Jun 25, 2014

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