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Elevation: 2,031 ft 619 m
GPS: 34.9992, -85.3554
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Shared By: saxfiend on Nov 17, 2006 · Updates
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Description Suggest change

Stretching along the western face of Lookout Mountain in Chattanooga is Sunset Park, home of some of Tennessee's finest single-pitch trad climbing.

Sunset has a long and interesting history, both for climbers and Civil War buffs. Lookout Mountain was an important vantage point for observation of troop movements during the siege of Chattanooga. Climbers began scaling the excellent sandstone back in the early 60s; Rusty's Crack, one of the earliest ascents, remains a classic.

Route development continued through the 60s and 70s, with pioneers like Tim McMillan, Stan Wallace and Bill Smith putting up numerous lines on old-school gear. In the 80s, the ubiquitous Rob Robinson and Forrest Gardner pushed the grades ever higher at Sunset with their ground-up trad first ascents of strenuous routes like The Prow.

Sunset has a great variety of climbing for anyone from beginners to the hardest trad leaders (there is no sport climbing at Sunset due to a total ban on fixed protection). New leaders can try their skills on routes like One-Ten, while 5.12s like Jennifer's World will make the most experienced leaders stop and think. And there's plenty to toprope for non-leaders.

Because it's a west-facing crag, Sunset is a nice destination in the summer months; it stays in the shade until well after lunchtime. This makes it a chilly place to climb in the wintertime, however.

Some important considerations:

  • Sunset is a national park, so to help maintain future climber access, be aware of and observe all park regulations. One of the most important of these is to be off the crag before sundown; this is strictly enforced and rangers will be waiting at the trailhead to write you a hefty ticket after sundown.
  • This is a residential neighborhood, and residents' attitude toward climbers tends to be hostile. Keep noise to a minimum and park only in designated areas (parking at the trailhead is extremely limited).
  • Erosion has been an issue on the crag trail, and the Southeastern Climbers Coalition has been active in work to remediate this problem. Stay off sections that are closed due to erosion.
  • Being an urban crag, there is no camping anywhere near Sunset Park. If you want to camp, you'll have to head over to nearby Tennessee Wall or Prentice Cooper State Forest.

The Dixie Cragger's Atlas is the guidebook for this area.

Getting There Suggest change

In downtown Chattanooga, take exit 178 off I-24 onto U.S. 27 north, then exit to Market Street. Continue to a left on Broad Street (going south) and follow this for several traffic lights and under a railroad overpass. Watch for signs for Ruby Falls and turn left onto a ramp; this is the South Scenic Highway (148). Follow this up the mountain past the Ruby Falls entrance, then turn in at the Cravens House historic site and park in either the upper or lower parking area. From the upper parking area, hike the wooded trail.

For access to Sunset North, continue up the Cravens House trail for about 20-30 minutes; this will bring you to the north end of the North section in the area of routes like Slip Stream and Bubble Bath. For access to Sunset South, either hike to the North section as above and continue through to the South section; or shortly after leaving the Cravens House parking, look for a fork trail on the right (Rifle Pits Trail). Follow this for about 10 minutes to a sort of access road (Upper Truck Trail) and continue another 10 minutes to the intersection with the Gum Spring Trail on the left. Take this fork and hike up to the main cliffline trail, turning right for Sunset South. NOTE: These two alternate ways of getting to Sunset South are about equal in length, though the Gum Spring Trail is somewhat steeper.

152 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Sunset Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 124
Stan's Crack
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 62
Wind Walker
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 141
R.J. Gold
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 57
Stan's Crack Direct Finish
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 112
Jefferson Airplane
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 56
Train Time
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 50
Silent Runner
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 106
Rusty's Crack
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 57
Scream Wall
Trad
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 38
Pigs in Space
Trad 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 55
Flagstone
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
 33
Back Street Revelations
Trad
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 28
Cornerstone
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 18
Space Ranger
Trad
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 14
Jennifer's World
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Stan's Crack Sunset North
 124
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Wind Walker Sunset South
 62
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
R.J. Gold Sunset North
 141
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Stan's Crack Direct Finish Sunset North
 57
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Jefferson Airplane Sunset North
 112
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Train Time Sunset South
 56
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Silent Runner Sunset South
 50
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Rusty's Crack Sunset North
 106
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Scream Wall Sunset North
 57
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Pigs in Space Sunset South
 38
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Flagstone Sunset North
 55
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Back Street Revelations Sunset South
 33
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 Trad
Cornerstone Sunset North
 28
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Space Ranger Sunset North
 18
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Jennifer's World Sunset North
 14
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in Sunset Park »

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