All Locations > Tennessee > Sunset Park > Sunset North

Stan's Crack

Name: Stan's Crack
Rating: 3.6

5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British

Routes in Sunset North

L › R R › L A › Z

	A Sense of Adventure T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Alpha Omega T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Ambidextrous T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	Another Fallen Angel T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Arena, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Banshee T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
	Beginner's Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Bill's Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Broemel's Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Broken Arrow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Bubble Bath T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Caught Red-handed T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C2
	Cobb, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Copperhead T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Cornerstone T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Crazy Eights T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Diamond, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Dire Straights T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Drainpipe, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Euphoria T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Fault Line T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Flagstone T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Flute Loops T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Fool's Gold T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Friday the Thirteenth T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Ghost Dancers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Golden Ledges T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13
	Grand Cave, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Harassic Park (aka Devil Dog) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Heavy Hands T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Hit the Slopers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Horribilus Maximus T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	In the Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Infidel Zombies T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Inside Moves T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Jams and Shams T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Jefferson Airplane T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Jennifer's World T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
	Jungle Gym T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Lefthand Crack T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Lichen to Lose It T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13
	Mineral Fright T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Moccasin Bend T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A2
	More Fun with Dick and Jane T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Nuclear Blue T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	One-Ten T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Peace and Tranquility T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Prisoners of Zenda T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Prow, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	R.J. Gold T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Rattlesnake Route T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Righthand Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Rusty's Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	S'More T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Scare Voyager T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
	Scream Wall T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Scream Wall Direct T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
	Slip Stream T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Space Ranger T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Spring Break T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Stan's Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Stan's Crack Direct Finish T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Stitch in Time T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Stone Harvest T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Sunset Boulevard T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Table For Six V4- 6B PG13
	Tantrum T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Terrier in Trouble T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Test Tube T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Thin Pockets T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Thin Slivers C2
	Toothpick T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Total Eclipse T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Towers Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Turkey and Coke T A3
	Twilight Zone C2
	Under the Rainbow V1 5 PG13
	Unleashed T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Vulture Warfare C2
	Water in Motion T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Where’s Jessup, Bugaboo? C2-
	Whiz Bang T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Womb, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

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Type:	Trad, 90 ft (27 m), 2 pitches
FA:	Stan Wallace, Spencer Turrentine - 1970s
Page Views:	9,731 total · 50/month
Shared By:	Danny Inman on May 6, 2007
Admins:	Stonyman Killough, Luke Cornejo, saxfiend Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

This route follows a great handcrack in a left-facing corner for about 65-70 feet to a spacious belay ledge, at which point there is an obvious off-width (direct finish 9+) to the left or easier terrain to the right -- the original route goes right following mellow terrain to the anchors. I found the route to be sustained at the grade with no particular crux. The face holds are plentiful, so the rests come easy as does protection.

Though it's officially a two-pitch route, Stan's Crack can easily be done in one pitch without serious rope drag issues.