Type: Trad, 90 ft (27 m), 2 pitches
FA: Stan Wallace, Spencer Turrentine - 1970s
Page Views: 10,387 total · 50/month
Shared By: Danny Inman on May 6, 2007
Admins: Stonyman Killough, Luke Cornejo, saxfiend

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Description Suggest change

This route follows a great handcrack in a left-facing corner for about 65-70 feet to a spacious belay ledge, at which point there is an obvious off-width (direct finish 9+) to the left or easier terrain to the right -- the original route goes right following mellow terrain to the anchors. I found the route to be sustained at the grade with no particular crux. The face holds are plentiful, so the rests come easy as does protection.

Though it's officially a two-pitch route, Stan's Crack can easily be done in one pitch without serious rope drag issues.

Location Suggest change

Continue past RJ gold etc., down a couple of steps-follow the trail for 30 yards or so. The route is a prominent left-facing corner.

Protection Suggest change

Mainly hand-sized cams. A rack from 1" up to 3" will do fine, double up on the 2 - 2.5" pieces to really sew it up. Bolted anchors at the top.