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Routes in Sunset North
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A Sense of Adventure T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Alpha Omega T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ambidextrous T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Another Fallen Angel T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Arena, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Banshee T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R |
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Beginner's Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Bill's Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bolt Pinnacle T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Boulderer Of Fortune T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Broemel's Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Broken Arrow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Bubble Bath T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Caught Red-handed T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C2 |
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Cobb, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Copperhead T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cornerstone T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Cranial Reconstruction T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Crazy Eights T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Diamond, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Dire Straights T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Doberman's T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Drainpipe, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Erroneous Zone, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Euphoria T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Fault Line T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Flagstone T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Flute Loops T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Fool's Gold T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Friday the Thirteenth T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ghost Dancers T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Golden Ledges T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Grand Cave, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Great White Fright T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Harassic Park (aka Devil Dog) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Heavy Hands T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hit the Slopers T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Horribilus Maximus T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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In the Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Infidel Zombies T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Inside Moves T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Invisible Touch T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Jams and Shams T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Jefferson Airplane T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Jennifer's World T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Jungle Gym T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lefthand Crack T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Lichen to Lose It T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Lost Arrow Chimney T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Mineral Fright T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Moccasin Bend T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A2 |
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More Fun with Dick and Jane T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Nuclear Blue T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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One-Ten T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Peace and Tranquility T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pearl, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Power Ranger T 5.14 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b R |
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Prisoners of Zenda T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Prow, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Puppy Rodeo T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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R.J. Gold T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rattlesnake Route T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Righthand Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Rusty's Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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S'More T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Scare Voyager T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Scream Wall T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Scream Wall Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Slip Stream T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Space Ranger T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Spring Break T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Spud Boys T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Stan's Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Stan's Crack Direct Finish T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Stitch in Time T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Stone Harvest T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sunset Boulevard T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Table For Six V4- 6B PG13 |
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Tantrum T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Terrier in Trouble T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Test Tube T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Thin Pockets T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Thin Slivers C2 |
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Toothpick T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Total Eclipse T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Towers Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Turkey and Coke T A3 |
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Twilight Zone C2 |
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Under the Rainbow V1 5 PG13 |
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Unknown T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Unleashed T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Vulture Warfare C2 |
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Water in Motion T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Where’s Jessup, Bugaboo? C2- |
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Whiz Bang T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Womb, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Stan Wallace, Spencer Turrentine - 1970s |
| Page Views: | 10,533 total · 48/month |
| Shared By: | Danny Inman on May 6, 2007 |
| Admins: | Stonyman Killough, Luke Cornejo, saxfiend |
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Description
This route follows a great handcrack in a left-facing corner for about 65-70 feet to a spacious belay ledge, at which point there is an obvious off-width (direct finish 9+) to the left or easier terrain to the right -- the original route goes right following mellow terrain to the anchors. I found the route to be sustained at the grade with no particular crux. The face holds are plentiful, so the rests come easy as does protection.
Though it's officially a two-pitch route, Stan's Crack can easily be done in one pitch without serious rope drag issues.
Though it's officially a two-pitch route, Stan's Crack can easily be done in one pitch without serious rope drag issues.
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