Type: Aid, 90 ft (27 m), 2 pitches
FA: Anderson and Arsenault, March 2019
Page Views: 798 total · 11/month
Shared By: Manderson198 on Mar 16, 2019
Admins: Stonyman Killough, Luke Cornejo, saxfiend

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Description Suggest change

Fun route. As far as I know, this is the first time this has been climbed. It is really a linkup of Chris Chesnutt’s Infidel Zombies and Rob Robinson’s The Toothpick. The new section is a 30 foot horizontal traverse under a roof.

Pitch 1 starts at the wide corner. Climb for 30 feet to a roof. Traverse left for 30 feet, and build an anchor in the crack that makes up the Toothpick headwall. Hanging belay.

Pitch 2 climbs The Toothpick’s laser cracks for 35 feet to the bolted anchors at the top of Stan’s Crack’s first pitch.

These two pitches could easily be linked if soloing, or if using double ropes.

Location Suggest change

Towers area at Sunset. The route starts 30 feet to the right of the obvious chimney where Stan’s Crack begins. The climb begins on Infidel Zombies, the obvious left-facing corner.

Protection Suggest change

Aid gear. Small cams, nuts, and ballnuts aplenty, as well as a BD grappling hook.

Photos

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