Type: Trad, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: Paul Landram, 1975
Page Views: 834 total · 5/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Oct 14, 2007
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


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Description

With balancey moves in places and a stiff finish, Ghost Dancers makes a nice lead for the 5.8 leader ready to push herself/himself.

Starting under a thin crack, climb on thin, hard-to-protect face holds to a stance where you can get in some pro. Continue up the crack to an overhang, then move slightly right to pull the overhang via a handcrack (crux) and up to the top.

For a somewhat easier-to-protect start, climb up to a flake system under flaring cracks a few feet right of the regular start, then tiptoe left to the regular route's crack.

Location

Starts just left of Thin Pockets, on a wide rock face about 80' down the trail north from Broken Arrow. Rap from the fixed anchors.

Protection

Mostly small stuff, nuts and cams up to 1.5"; a #3 or 4 camalot can be handy for the big horizontal just below the crux. Ring anchors at the top.

Photos