Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Paul Landram, 1975
Page Views: 476 total · 3/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Oct 14, 2007
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


33 Opinions

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Description

With balancey moves in places and a stiff finish, Ghost Dancers makes a nice lead for the 5.8 leader ready to push herself/himself.

Starting under a thin crack, climb on thin, hard-to-protect face holds to a stance where you can get in some pro. Continue up the crack to an overhang, then move slightly right to pull the overhang via a handcrack (crux) and up to the top.

For a somewhat easier-to-protect start, climb up to a flake system under flaring cracks a few feet right of the regular start, then tiptoe left to the regular route's crack.

Location

Starts just left of Thin Pockets, on a wide rock face about 80' down the trail north from Broken Arrow. Rap from the fixed anchors.

Protection

Mostly small stuff, nuts and cams up to 1.5"; a #3 or 4 camalot can be handy for the big horizontal just below the crux. Ring anchors at the top.

Photos

saxfiend
Decatur, GA
  5.8+
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
  5.8+
This is really a nice line, challenging without being outrageously scary. The climbing down low isn't that tough, making up for the thin protection, and excellent gear at the crux hand crack up top means a clean, well-protected fall if you miss the moves. Too bad it's not longer. Aug 9, 2009
TKHouse
  5.8
TKHouse  
  5.8
Climbed this today, one of my favorite climbs in Sunset park.

The craggers atlas calls the direct start a 10, and it's definitely pretty height dependent. The flakes and such to the right are, as I understand, the standard start.

This climb is absolutely phenomenal, although a hair short to be a classic. Great fun climbing with thought provoking moves and pro. I wouldn't say any part of the climb lacked adequate pro, but it definitely makes you work for it. I found a small metolius and a tricam helpful.

The finish is heaps of fun. And once you think it's over, even the topout gives a few thought provoking twists. Jun 3, 2012
highneed
  5.8-
highneed  
  5.8-
Only wish this climb was longer, it has three distinct sectionsand they are all fun. Sep 23, 2012
paul.adams.3
Knoxville, TN
 
paul.adams.3   Knoxville, TN
 
In Chattrad the photo seems to show the standard start as going straight up. Doing so would set your first piece of gear well off the deck - probably 20' or so. As someone mentioned above, just traverse in from the right for a less heady start. Fun route with a cruxy move down low and a tough finish Jul 19, 2016