Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,484 total · 18/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Jul 8, 2007
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

A wonderfully-misnamed route, since most beginners will probably not find chimney climbing particularly easy. The Dixie Cragger's Atlas lists this at 5.5, but most leaders find it a grade or two harder. Excellent protection and a good opportunity for practicing chimney technique make Beginner's Route a fun lead.

Starting below the obvious V-shaped chimney, make a bouldering move into the slot and work your way up to a slight overhang. Transition out of the chimney and up a crack to a slabby finish.

Location

Starts about 15' left of Water in Motion. Rap from a tree with fixed slings and quicklinks.

Protection

Standard rack, no big gear required. Build an anchor using trees and pro.

Photos

Joey Wolfe
  5.6
Joey Wolfe  
  5.6
This climb is longer then it looks from the ground, and a lot more fun. The transition from chimney to turning and stemming at the top is a memorable (fun) series of moves. Aug 18, 2007
TKHouse
  5.6
TKHouse  
  5.6
Uncommon style at the crags in Tennessee. Well worth the grunting.

The anchor at the top (slings with no padding around a tree) is beginning to look questionable. The tree is alive but not particularly well rooted. I recommend building an anchor, belaying up the second, and traversing right about twenty feet to another set of rings. Jun 3, 2012
Adam Hallin
  5.7
Adam Hallin  
  5.7
Wicked fun chimney with good pro!

I left a sling on the pine tree above/climbers right of the route on 6/25/18. Be warned, there is significant deadfall above this route, and the "anchor" sits below a giant patch of poison ivy. I think this route deserves a bolted anchor, there is a great spot directly above the chimney for an anchor in solid rock. Otherwise, you risk poison ivy exposure, anchoring off a sub-optimal tree, and potentially sending the hanging deadfall onto your belayer. This is a great route, just be aware of the anchor situation. Jun 26, 2018