Beginner's Route [Edit]
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 2.2 from 11 votes
Routes in Sunset North
A Sense of Adventure T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Alpha Omega T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Ambidextrous T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R | |
Another Fallen Angel T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Arena, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Banshee T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R | |
Beginner's Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Bill's Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Broemel's Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Broken Arrow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Bubble Bath T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Cobb, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c | |
Copperhead T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Cornerstone T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Crazy Eights T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R | |
Diamond, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 | |
Fault Line T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c | |
Flagstone T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Flute Loops T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Fool's Gold T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b | |
Friday the Thirteenth T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Ghost Dancers T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Golden Ledges T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 | |
Grand Cave, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Harassic Park (aka Devil Dog) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Heavy Hands T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Hit the Slopers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Horribilus Maximus T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
In the Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Jams and Shams T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Jefferson Airplane T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Jennifer's World T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a | |
Jungle Gym T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Lefthand Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Lichen to Lose It T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 | |
Mineral Fright T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c | |
More Fun with Dick and Jane T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c | |
Nuclear Blue T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
One-Ten T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Peace and Tranquility T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Prisoners of Zenda T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Prow, The T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a | |
R.J. Gold T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Righthand Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Rusty's Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
S'More T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Scare Voyager T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 | |
Scream Wall T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Scream Wall Direct T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 | |
Slip Stream T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Space Ranger T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Spring Break T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Stan's Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Stan's Crack Direct Finish T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Stitch in Time T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
Sunset Boulevard T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Tantrum T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b | |
Terrier in Trouble T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Test Tube T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Thin Pockets T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 | |
Toothpick T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Total Eclipse T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Towers Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c | |
Water in Motion T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Womb, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Type: | Trad, 70 ft |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 2,304 total · 17/month |
Shared By: | saxfiend on Jul 8, 2007 |
Admins: | saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough |
Description [Edit]
A wonderfully-misnamed route, since most beginners will probably not find chimney climbing particularly easy. The Dixie Cragger's Atlas lists this at 5.5, but most leaders find it a grade or two harder. Excellent protection and a good opportunity for practicing chimney technique make Beginner's Route a fun lead.
Starting below the obvious V-shaped chimney, make a bouldering move into the slot and work your way up to a slight overhang. Transition out of the chimney and up a crack to a slabby finish.
Starting below the obvious V-shaped chimney, make a bouldering move into the slot and work your way up to a slight overhang. Transition out of the chimney and up a crack to a slabby finish.
Location [Edit]
Starts about 15' left of Water in Motion. Rap from a tree with fixed slings and quicklinks.
The anchor at the top (slings with no padding around a tree) is beginning to look questionable. The tree is alive but not particularly well rooted. I recommend building an anchor, belaying up the second, and traversing right about twenty feet to another set of rings. Jun 3, 2012