Type: Trad, 95 ft
FA: Steve Goins and Doug Merriam 1978
Page Views: 1,314 total · 9/month
Shared By: Danny Inman on May 6, 2007
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


25 Opinions

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Description

Stan's Crack Direct follows the off-width near the top of Stan's Crack proper. This variation is highly recommended. Climb Stan's Crack to the base of the offwidth/flake approximately 30 feet below the top, jam and stem your way to the bolted anchors.

Location

See Stan's Crack.

Protection

Small wires protect the moves gaining the crack, 3, 3.5, and 4" cams protect the crack.

Photos

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saxfiend
Decatur, GA
  5.10+
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
  5.10+
Strenuous; the jams are good but feet aren't. Felt more 10-ish to me, but that's probably in keeping with the sandbagged nature of the rest of Stan's. Jul 26, 2008
David Draper
Chattanooga, TN
David Draper   Chattanooga, TN
Stans is probably the best 5.8 crack at sunset, it has gear a go-go and cadillac smooth hand jams wherever you want them. I think you could throw a cam at the crack and it would be bomber! A bolted anchor is off to the right at about two thirds height, but a more fun and natural line takes you straight up the steep crack. A 3.5 or a 4 old BD is useful here. If you have big hands the grade stays at 8plus, but my small hands wife stems her way out and gives it a 9. A must do! Sep 24, 2008
Adam Kunis
Athens
Adam Kunis   Athens
The top protects with small gear where you need it. I brought a single rack and while a little thought provoking with the massive 3-4" crack in your face, it's all there Jun 23, 2017