Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Rob Robinson, Bruce Rogers - 1979 FFA: Forrest Gardner, Rob Robinson - 1980
Page Views: 2,337 total · 23/month
Shared By: Monica Jones on Nov 15, 2010
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Description

There are three variations for the top half of the climb, the J.W. original goes far right next to the offwidth at 11a and ends at chains. There are two other variations that are more difficult and runout that go straight up or slightly left of the original finish.

Location

Next obvious buttress climber's left of Sunset Rock; starts 25' left of Lost Arrow Chimney.

Protection

Gear. Anchors at top.

Photos

Monica Jones
Bishop, CA
  5.12a/b
Monica Jones   Bishop, CA
  5.12a/b
Really fun, beautiful climb. Nov 15, 2010
Wei-Ming Lam
Phoenix, AZ
 
Wei-Ming Lam   Phoenix, AZ
 
Going up the middle seemed to be the most logical option for me. I haven't gone up the right side.

To do this, climb the initial layback and walk right for a good no-hands rest. Hand traverse back left along the obvious horizontal using thin feet/smears and fire up the face: 5.11+ish. I didn't find the climbing to be that run out - there's good pro to be had!

Enjoy one of Sunset's finest! May 26, 2016