All Locations > Tennessee > Sunset Park > Sunset North

Golden Ledges

Name: Golden Ledges
Rating: 2.0

5.11a/b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British PG13

Routes in Sunset North

L › R R › L A › Z

	A Sense of Adventure T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Alpha Omega T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Ambidextrous T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	Another Fallen Angel T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Arena, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Banshee T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
	Beginner's Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Bill's Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Birth Canal, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Bolt Pinnacle T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R
	Boulderer Of Fortune T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Broemel's Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Broken Arrow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Bubble Bath T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Caught Red-handed T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C2
	Cobb, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Congo Bongo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Copperhead T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Cornerstone T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Cranial Reconstruction T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
	Crazy Eights T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Diamond, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Dire Straights T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Doberman's T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Drainpipe, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Erroneous Zone, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
	Euphoria T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Fault Line T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Flagstone T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Flute Loops T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Fool's Gold T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Friday the Thirteenth T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Ghost Dancers T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Golden Ledges T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
	Grand Cave, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Great White Fright T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Green Hills of Africa T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Harassic Park (aka Devil Dog) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Heavy Hands T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Hit the Slopers T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Horribilus Maximus T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	In the Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Infidel Zombies T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Inside Moves T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Invisible Touch T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Jams and Shams T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Jefferson Airplane T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Jennifer's World T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
	Jungle Gym T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Kaleidoscope Eyes T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
	Lefthand Crack T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Lichen to Lose It T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13
	Lost Arrow Chimney T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Mineral Fright T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Moccasin Bend T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A2
	More Fun with Dick and Jane T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Nuclear Blue T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	One-Ten T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Osmosis T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Peace and Tranquility T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Pearl, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Power Ranger T 5.14 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b R
	Prisoners of Zenda T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Prow, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Puppy Rodeo T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	R.J. Gold T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Rattlesnake Route T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Righthand Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Rusty's Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	S'More T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Scare Voyager T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
	Scream Wall T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Scream Wall Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Slip Stream T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Space Ranger T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Spring Break T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Spud Boys T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Stan's Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Stan's Crack Direct Finish T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Stitch in Time T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Stone Harvest T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Sunset Boulevard T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Table For Six V4- 6B PG13
	Tantrum T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Terrier in Trouble T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Test Tube T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Thin Pockets T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Thin Slivers C2
	Toothpick T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Total Eclipse T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Towers Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Turkey and Coke T A3
	Twilight Zone C2
	Under the Rainbow V1 5 PG13
	Unknown T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Unleashed T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Vulture Warfare C2
	Water in Motion T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Where’s Jessup, Bugaboo? C2-
	Whiz Bang T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Womb, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

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Type:	Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
GPS:	34.9992, -85.3554
FA:	Forrest Gardner, Mike Lewis - 5/1982
Page Views:	848 total · 7/month
Shared By:	Wei-Ming Lam on May 25, 2016
Admins:	Stonyman Killough, Luke Cornejo, saxfiend Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description

Climb up through some slightly broken rock and a roof crack. Follow a finger crack to gain a large ledge. Optional stop for a 1st pitch. 5.9+ ~50 feet.

Angle slightly left towards ledge systems along the line of least resistance. You'll arrive at a small (read: very small) ledge where you can now contemplate the crux guarding the bolted anchors. If you have read the Dixie Cragger guidebook and are expecting a fixed pin at the crux - there isn't one. 5.11- ~50 feet

This climb seems to rarely get traffic, and understandably so... Though the climbing is pretty good, it's heady as the Chat Trad guidebook points out. Expect a fair amount of lichen and spider webs.

Location

About 40' right of the classic Space Ranger.

Protection

Two bolt anchor.

Range of gear.

I don't usually include specific gear beta, but in this case if you don't have the right gear at the crux (like I did), you are facing a pretty severe fall with ledge out potential. Down climbing from the crux would be a harrowing proposition. To respect those on-sight hungry climbers amongst you, I've included crux gear beta in binary. If you're interested, convert it on a binary-to-text conversion website.
010000100100010000100000001011100011010100100000011011110111001000100000011100000110100101101110011010110010000001110100011100100110100101100011011000010110110100100000001010000110011001101111011100100010000001110011011101010111001001100101001010010010000000101011001000000110010101101001011101000110100001100101011100100010000001000010010001000010000000101110001101000010111101001111011100100110000101101110011001110110010100100000010011010110010101110100011011110110110001101001011101010111001100101110