Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Forrest Gardner, Mike Lewis - 5/1982
Page Views: 129 total · 4/month
Shared By: Wei-Ming Lam on May 25, 2016
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


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Description

Climb up through some slightly broken rock and a roof crack. Follow a finger crack to gain a large ledge. Optional stop for a 1st pitch. 5.9+ ~50 feet.

Angle slightly left towards ledge systems along the line of least resistance. You'll arrive at a small (read: very small) ledge where you can now contemplate the crux guarding the bolted anchors. If you have read the Dixie Cragger guidebook and are expecting a fixed pin at the crux - there isn't one. 5.11- ~50 feet

This climb seems to rarely get traffic, and understandably so... Though the climbing is pretty good, it's heady as the Chat Trad guidebook points out. Expect a fair amount of lichen and spider webs.

Location

About 40' right of the classic Space Ranger.

Protection

Two bolt anchor.

Range of gear.

I don't usually include specific gear beta, but in this case if you don't have the right gear at the crux (like I did), you are facing a pretty severe fall with ledge out potential. Down climbing from the crux would be a harrowing proposition. To respect those on-sight hungry climbers amongst you, I've included crux gear beta in binary. If you're interested, convert it on a binary-to-text conversion website.
010000100100010000100000001011100011010100100000011011110111001000100000011100000110100101101110011010110010000001110100011100100110100101100011011000010110110100100000001010000110011001101111011100100010000001110011011101010111001001100101001010010010000000101011001000000110010101101001011101000110100001100101011100100010000001000010010001000010000000101110001101000010111101001111011100100110000101101110011001110110010100100000010011010110010101110100011011110110110001101001011101010111001100101110

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