Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: Forrest Gardner, Mike Lewis - 5/1982
Page Views: 486 total · 7/month
Shared By: Wei-Ming Lam on May 25, 2016
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route

2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick


Climb up through some slightly broken rock and a roof crack. Follow a finger crack to gain a large ledge. Optional stop for a 1st pitch. 5.9+ ~50 feet.

Angle slightly left towards ledge systems along the line of least resistance. You'll arrive at a small (read: very small) ledge where you can now contemplate the crux guarding the bolted anchors. If you have read the Dixie Cragger guidebook and are expecting a fixed pin at the crux - there isn't one. 5.11- ~50 feet

This climb seems to rarely get traffic, and understandably so... Though the climbing is pretty good, it's heady as the Chat Trad guidebook points out. Expect a fair amount of lichen and spider webs.


About 40' right of the classic Space Ranger.


Two bolt anchor.

Range of gear.

I don't usually include specific gear beta, but in this case if you don't have the right gear at the crux (like I did), you are facing a pretty severe fall with ledge out potential. Down climbing from the crux would be a harrowing proposition. To respect those on-sight hungry climbers amongst you, I've included crux gear beta in binary. If you're interested, convert it on a binary-to-text conversion website.