Golden Ledges
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British PG13
Early Access
| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| GPS: | 34.99919, -85.35541 |
| FA: | Forrest Gardner, Mike Lewis - 5/1982 |
| Page Views: | 970 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Wei-Ming Lam on May 25, 2016 |
| Admins: | Stonyman Killough, Luke Cornejo, saxfiend |
Description
Climb up through some slightly broken rock and a roof crack. Follow a finger crack to gain a large ledge. Optional stop for a 1st pitch. 5.9+ ~50 feet.
Angle slightly left towards ledge systems along the line of least resistance. You'll arrive at a small (read: very small) ledge where you can now contemplate the crux guarding the bolted anchors. If you have read the Dixie Cragger guidebook and are expecting a fixed pin at the crux - there isn't one. 5.11- ~50 feet
This climb seems to rarely get traffic, and understandably so... Though the climbing is pretty good, it's heady as the Chat Trad guidebook points out. Expect a fair amount of lichen and spider webs.
Protection
Two bolt anchor.
Range of gear.
I don't usually include specific gear beta, but in this case if you don't have the right gear at the crux (like I did), you are facing a pretty severe fall with ledge out potential. Down climbing from the crux would be a harrowing proposition. To respect those on-sight hungry climbers amongst you, I've included crux gear beta in binary. If you're interested, convert it on a binary-to-text conversion website.
010000100100010000100000001011100011010100100000011011110111001000100000011100000110100101101110011010110010000001110100011100100110100101100011011000010110110100100000001010000110011001101111011100100010000001110011011101010111001001100101001010010010000000101011001000000110010101101001011101000110100001100101011100100010000001000010010001000010000000101110001101000010111101001111011100100110000101101110011001110110010100100000010011010110010101110100011011110110110001101001011101010111001100101110



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