Routes in Sunset North
A Sense of Adventure T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Alpha Omega T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Ambidextrous T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R | |
Another Fallen Angel T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Arena, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Banshee T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R | |
Beginner's Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Bill's Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Broemel's Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Broken Arrow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Bubble Bath T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Cobb, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c | |
Copperhead T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Cornerstone T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Crazy Eights T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R | |
Diamond, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 | |
Fault Line T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c | |
Flagstone T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Flute Loops T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Fool's Gold T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b | |
Friday the Thirteenth T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Ghost Dancers T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Golden Ledges T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 | |
Grand Cave, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Harassic Park (aka Devil Dog) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Heavy Hands T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Hit the Slopers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Horribilus Maximus T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
In the Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Jams and Shams T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Jefferson Airplane T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Jennifer's World T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a | |
Jungle Gym T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Lefthand Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Lichen to Lose It T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 | |
Mineral Fright T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c | |
More Fun with Dick and Jane T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c | |
Nuclear Blue T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
One-Ten T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Peace and Tranquility T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Prisoners of Zenda T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Prow, The T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a | |
R.J. Gold T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Righthand Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Rusty's Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
S'More T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Scare Voyager T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 | |
Scream Wall T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Scream Wall Direct T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 | |
Slip Stream T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Space Ranger T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Spring Break T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Stan's Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Stan's Crack Direct Finish T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Stitch in Time T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
Sunset Boulevard T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Tantrum T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b | |
Terrier in Trouble T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Test Tube T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Thin Pockets T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 | |
Toothpick T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Total Eclipse T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Towers Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c | |
Water in Motion T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Womb, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
Type: | Trad, 100 ft |
FA: | Forrest Gardner, Mike Lewis - 5/1982 |
Page Views: | 109 total · 5/month |
Shared By: | Wei-Ming Lam on May 25, 2016 |
Admins: | saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough |
Description
Climb up through some slightly broken rock and a roof crack. Follow a finger crack to gain a large ledge. Optional stop for a 1st pitch. 5.9+ ~50 feet.
Angle slightly left towards ledge systems along the line of least resistance. You'll arrive at a small (read: very small) ledge where you can now contemplate the crux guarding the bolted anchors. If you have read the Dixie Cragger guidebook and are expecting a fixed pin at the crux - there isn't one. 5.11- ~50 feet
This climb seems to rarely get traffic, and understandably so... Though the climbing is pretty good, it's heady as the Chat Trad guidebook points out. Expect a fair amount of lichen and spider webs.
Angle slightly left towards ledge systems along the line of least resistance. You'll arrive at a small (read: very small) ledge where you can now contemplate the crux guarding the bolted anchors. If you have read the Dixie Cragger guidebook and are expecting a fixed pin at the crux - there isn't one. 5.11- ~50 feet
This climb seems to rarely get traffic, and understandably so... Though the climbing is pretty good, it's heady as the Chat Trad guidebook points out. Expect a fair amount of lichen and spider webs.
Protection
Two bolt anchor.
Range of gear.
I don't usually include specific gear beta, but in this case if you don't have the right gear at the crux (like I did), you are facing a pretty severe fall with ledge out potential. Down climbing from the crux would be a harrowing proposition. To respect those on-sight hungry climbers amongst you, I've included crux gear beta in binary. If you're interested, convert it on a binary-to-text conversion website.
010000100100010000100000001011100011010100100000011011110111001000100000011100000110100101101110011010110010000001110100011100100110100101100011011000010110110100100000001010000110011001101111011100100010000001110011011101010111001001100101001010010010000000101011001000000110010101101001011101000110100001100101011100100010000001000010010001000010000000101110001101000010111101001111011100100110000101101110011001110110010100100000010011010110010101110100011011110110110001101001011101010111001100101110
Range of gear.
I don't usually include specific gear beta, but in this case if you don't have the right gear at the crux (like I did), you are facing a pretty severe fall with ledge out potential. Down climbing from the crux would be a harrowing proposition. To respect those on-sight hungry climbers amongst you, I've included crux gear beta in binary. If you're interested, convert it on a binary-to-text conversion website.
010000100100010000100000001011100011010100100000011011110111001000100000011100000110100101101110011010110010000001110100011100100110100101100011011000010110110100100000001010000110011001101111011100100010000001110011011101010111001001100101001010010010000000101011001000000110010101101001011101000110100001100101011100100010000001000010010001000010000000101110001101000010111101001111011100100110000101101110011001110110010100100000010011010110010101110100011011110110110001101001011101010111001100101110
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