Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: NA
Page Views: 2,622 total · 41/month
Shared By: kyle howe on Sep 15, 2013
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


27 Opinions

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Description

There are a few ways to begin this route, all of which lead to a very large ledge about 20' off the deck. Climb up another 10' or so until you hit a small roof. From here, you have the choice to begin climbing up the leftcrack or the rightcrack. If you decide the rightcrack, the move that positions you over the small roof and into the main crack is the crux. Once in the main crack, layback and head to the top!

Location

Just left of The Diamond, one of the first routes you come to after descent from Sunset Rock proper. Route is situated in a corner with two slightly overhung and obvious crack systems that share anchors: Righthand Crack and Lefthand Crack.

Protection

Standard rack. Anchors w/rings. Can be accessed from top for top-roping.

Photos

Matthew Vecchio
St. Francisville, LA
 
Matthew Vecchio   St. Francisville, LA
 
Tried this out all day today. As a relatively new trad climber, this was a particularly versatile route with lots of awesome pro placements. Its located towards the end of the walls on the trail, so there was a lotta excitement built up when we finally got there. Nice bolted route on the left, excellent crack right up the center, and a face climb on the right. Great for toprope too. Needless to say, this playground easily took up hours of the day with all the fun, and I got pretty worn out at the end. Unfortunately, I had a little "wobbly" trouble cleaning the last of my placements, so for whoever's interested, there's a shiny new BD stopper (#9) to the left of the nose on the corner crack ;) great climb, rave weather! Lots of little black ants tho. Cheers! Jul 8, 2014
eli poss
Durango, Co
 
eli poss   Durango, Co
 
As with all cracks, grade is dependent on hand size and if you can get hand jams in here it's definitely 5.7. I, however, get bomber hand-jams in the "off-finger" and "tight hand "size cracks and hand cracks are often too wide for me to get jams in. so for me with was more like a 5.8/8+ because i either had to layback or use face holds where it was too big to jam. i found it to be of similar difficulty as more fun with dick and jane Nov 27, 2014
Mattisadude
  5.7+
Mattisadude  
  5.7+
Spoiler alert: If you don't like gear beta, don't read any further.
Plenty of good passive gear (nuts) in the crack. Feels like I used #8-12 BD stoppers. First moves (off the ledge) protect well with a #1 and #2 camalot equalized w/ magic x. Would be classic if longer. May 22, 2015