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Routes in Sunset North

A Sense of Adventure T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Alpha Omega T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ambidextrous T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Another Fallen Angel T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Arena, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Banshee T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Beginner's Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bill's Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Broemel's Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Broken Arrow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bubble Bath T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cobb, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Copperhead T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cornerstone T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crazy Eights T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Diamond, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Fault Line T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Flagstone T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Flute Loops T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fool's Gold T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Friday the Thirteenth T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ghost Dancers T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Golden Ledges T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Grand Cave, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Harassic Park (aka Devil Dog) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Heavy Hands T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hit the Slopers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Horribilus Maximus T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
In the Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jams and Shams T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jefferson Airplane T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jennifer's World T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Jungle Gym T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lefthand Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lichen to Lose It T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Mineral Fright T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
More Fun with Dick and Jane T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Nuclear Blue T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
One-Ten T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Peace and Tranquility T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Prisoners of Zenda T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Prow, The T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
R.J. Gold T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Righthand Crack T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rusty's Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
S'More T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scare Voyager T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Scream Wall T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Scream Wall Direct T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Slip Stream T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Space Ranger T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Spring Break T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stan's Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stan's Crack Direct Finish T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stitch in Time T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sunset Boulevard T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tantrum T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Terrier in Trouble T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Test Tube T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thin Pockets T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Toothpick T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Total Eclipse T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Towers Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Water in Motion T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Womb, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: NA
Page Views: 2,154 total, 42/month
Shared By: khowe on Sep 15, 2013
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


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Description

There are a few ways to begin this route, all of which lead to a very large ledge about 20' off the deck. Climb up another 10' or so until you hit a small roof. From here, you have the choice to begin climbing up the leftcrack or the rightcrack. If you decide the rightcrack, the move that positions you over the small roof and into the main crack is the crux. Once in the main crack, layback and head to the top!

Location

Just left of The Diamond, one of the first routes you come to after descent from Sunset Rock proper. Route is situated in a corner with two slightly overhung and obvious crack systems that share anchors: Righthand Crack and Lefthand Crack.

Protection

Standard rack. Anchors w/rings. Can be accessed from top for top-roping.

Photos

Mattisadude
  5.7+
Mattisadude  
  5.7+
Spoiler alert: If you don't like gear beta, don't read any further.
Plenty of good passive gear (nuts) in the crack. Feels like I used #8-12 BD stoppers. First moves (off the ledge) protect well with a #1 and #2 camalot equalized w/ magic x. Would be classic if longer. May 22, 2015
eli poss
Durango, Co
 
eli poss   Durango, Co
 
As with all cracks, grade is dependent on hand size and if you can get hand jams in here it's definitely 5.7. I, however, get bomber hand-jams in the "off-finger" and "tight hand "size cracks and hand cracks are often too wide for me to get jams in. so for me with was more like a 5.8/8+ because i either had to layback or use face holds where it was too big to jam. i found it to be of similar difficulty as more fun with dick and jane Nov 27, 2014
Matthew Vecchio
St. Francisville, LA
 
Matthew Vecchio   St. Francisville, LA
 
Tried this out all day today. As a relatively new trad climber, this was a particularly versatile route with lots of awesome pro placements. Its located towards the end of the walls on the trail, so there was a lotta excitement built up when we finally got there. Nice bolted route on the left, excellent crack right up the center, and a face climb on the right. Great for toprope too. Needless to say, this playground easily took up hours of the day with all the fun, and I got pretty worn out at the end. Unfortunately, I had a little "wobbly" trouble cleaning the last of my placements, so for whoever's interested, there's a shiny new BD stopper (#9) to the left of the nose on the corner crack ;) great climb, rave weather! Lots of little black ants tho. Cheers! Jul 8, 2014