Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Tom Martin, Noel McGlothin, and Tom Kimbro 1964
Page Views: 7,255 total · 51/month
Shared By: Danny Inman on Jun 4, 2007
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


57 Opinions

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Description

This route begins in an obvious flared chimney. Climb the chimney and work out a large roof via the splitter 4" crack. Pull the roof and jam the crack until it ends at a ledge. From the ledge climb the steep and exposed face to a set of ring anchors.

Location

From the trail turn right. The route is located in the main area just past the closures.

Protection

Standard rack up to a #4 WC Friend. An old-sized #3.5 camalot is nice for the crack above the roof. The face section accepts mainly finger size and smaller.

Photos

saxfiend
Decatur, GA
  5.10b
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
  5.10b
Excellent! The moves are all there if you can get a good jam high enough to place your feet well. Maybe next time I will . . . Aug 24, 2008
cshuey77 shuey
Asheviile,nc
 
cshuey77 shuey   Asheviile,nc
 
2- ways to climb the crux, both are 10a May 27, 2010
JohnWesely
Red River Gorge
JohnWesely   Red River Gorge
How do you do this route? I had to french free the crux. This is the only 5.10 I have ever not been able to complete. Aug 15, 2011
I pulled the roof crux by keeping my feet right as long as possible, then leaning way out left to a good hold about even with the base of the crack on the left. Once you've got that, cut your feet, swing left, and pull up to squeeze (hump?) the left overhanging arete between your feet. Before your thighs give out, squeeze hard, stand up, and jam a right hand fist jam as high as you can in the crack. Pray it holds while you match your left foot at your left hand, then you're golden!

Take a long rest at the spacious ledge a few feet above to bask in the glory and proclaim your excellence to the crowds, which have undoubtedly gathered. Mar 4, 2013
This is the rare climb that actually is safer to lead than it is to follow, you'll be top roping the crux any way with zero rope stretch, and its 5.7 the rest of the way. Sep 6, 2016