Type: Trad, 70 ft (21 m), 2 pitches
FA: Rob Robinson, Steve Goins Nov. 1978
Page Views: 279 total · 19/month
Shared By: Andrew Richardson on Sep 20, 2023
Admins: Stonyman Killough, Luke Cornejo, saxfiend

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

A classic exercise in stemming and jamming.

P1: The obvious left-facing corner presents some challenges getting off the ground, and it's a touch headier than it's 5.9 rating suggests. It finishes after a short-but-interesting 30 feet on a nice ledge.

P2: Continue off the ledge into the ever steepening corner. Lieback, jam, and stem through a couple cruxes, and savor the rest positions when you find them. None of the individual moves are terribly hard, but it'll take some core tension and willpower to link them all together!

The route also goes in a single pitch if extended well. Overall, it's surprisingly clean until the final 10 or so feet, at which point erosion from the top of the main rock keeps things in a seemingly permanent state of dirt. Suck it up and do it anyway!

Location Suggest change

Main Sunset Rock, to the left of The Prow

Protection Suggest change

Gear to #4, heavy on hand to fist size pro. #2-3 for the anchors or walk off

Photos

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