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Routes in Sunset North

A Sense of Adventure T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Alpha Omega T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ambidextrous T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Another Fallen Angel T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Arena, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Banshee T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Beginner's Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bill's Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Broemel's Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Broken Arrow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bubble Bath T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cobb, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Copperhead T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cornerstone T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crazy Eights T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Diamond, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Fault Line T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Flagstone T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Flute Loops T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fool's Gold T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Friday the Thirteenth T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ghost Dancers T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Golden Ledges T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Grand Cave, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Harassic Park (aka Devil Dog) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Heavy Hands T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hit the Slopers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Horribilus Maximus T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
In the Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jams and Shams T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jefferson Airplane T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jennifer's World T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Jungle Gym T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lefthand Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lichen to Lose It T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Mineral Fright T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
More Fun with Dick and Jane T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Nuclear Blue T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
One-Ten T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Peace and Tranquility T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Prisoners of Zenda T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Prow, The T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
R.J. Gold T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Righthand Crack T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rusty's Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
S'More T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scare Voyager T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Scream Wall T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Scream Wall Direct T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Slip Stream T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Space Ranger T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Spring Break T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stan's Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stan's Crack Direct Finish T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stitch in Time T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sunset Boulevard T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tantrum T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Terrier in Trouble T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Test Tube T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thin Pockets T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Toothpick T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Total Eclipse T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Towers Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Water in Motion T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Womb, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,037 total, 21/month
Shared By: Alex Whitman on Nov 8, 2013
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


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Description

This might be my favorite pitch at Sunset, and I really like Sunset. True arete climbing, heel hooks and technical footwork included, but on gear. Good gear at that. Start in a small left facing corner, traverse a sloping rail to the left and then venture up the thin finger-crack/arete. Something extra special awaits the at the top, a little taste of the FA I would imagine.

Location

The last route to the left on the RJ Gold/Jefferson Airplane Buttress. Look for the awesome arete/finger crack feature just asking to be climbed on the far edge of the buttress.

Protection

Bring the small things, nothing that is a surprise from the ground. A new shiny two bolt anchor will finally appear around the 30m mark. Use a 60 or better.

Photos

Mason M
Carrollton
Mason M   Carrollton
Maybe this hasn't phased anyone else, but at the top of the arete on the face the climbing becomes covered in big lichen and you can see the grassy top, but no anchors. Don't be discouraged. Keep going up and passed the licheny slopers and above the grassy ledge there are anchors. May 25, 2015