Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,214 total · 19/month
Shared By: Alex Whitman on Nov 8, 2013
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Description

This might be my favorite pitch at Sunset, and I really like Sunset. True arete climbing, heel hooks and technical footwork included, but on gear. Good gear at that. Start in a small left facing corner, traverse a sloping rail to the left and then venture up the thin finger-crack/arete. Something extra special awaits the at the top, a little taste of the FA I would imagine.

Location

The last route to the left on the RJ Gold/Jefferson Airplane Buttress. Look for the awesome arete/finger crack feature just asking to be climbed on the far edge of the buttress.

Protection

Bring the small things, nothing that is a surprise from the ground. A new shiny two bolt anchor will finally appear around the 30m mark. Use a 60 or better.

Photos

Mason M
Carrollton
Mason M   Carrollton
Maybe this hasn't phased anyone else, but at the top of the arete on the face the climbing becomes covered in big lichen and you can see the grassy top, but no anchors. Don't be discouraged. Keep going up and passed the licheny slopers and above the grassy ledge there are anchors. May 25, 2015