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Routes in Sunset North
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A Sense of Adventure T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Alpha Omega T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ambidextrous T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Another Fallen Angel T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Arena, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Banshee T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R |
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Beginner's Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Bill's Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bolt Pinnacle T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Boulderer Of Fortune T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Broemel's Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Broken Arrow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Bubble Bath T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Caught Red-handed T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C2 |
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Cobb, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Copperhead T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cornerstone T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Cranial Reconstruction T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Crazy Eights T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Diamond, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Dire Straights T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Doberman's T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Drainpipe, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Erroneous Zone, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Euphoria T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Fault Line T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Flagstone T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Flute Loops T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Fool's Gold T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Friday the Thirteenth T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ghost Dancers T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Golden Ledges T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Grand Cave, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Great White Fright T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Harassic Park (aka Devil Dog) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Heavy Hands T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hit the Slopers T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Horribilus Maximus T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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In the Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Infidel Zombies T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Inside Moves T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Invisible Touch T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Jams and Shams T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Jefferson Airplane T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Jennifer's World T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Jungle Gym T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lefthand Crack T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Lichen to Lose It T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Mineral Fright T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Moccasin Bend T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A2 |
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More Fun with Dick and Jane T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Nuclear Blue T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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One-Ten T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Peace and Tranquility T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pearl, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Power Ranger T 5.14 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b R |
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Prisoners of Zenda T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Prow, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Puppy Rodeo T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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R.J. Gold T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rattlesnake Route T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Righthand Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Rusty's Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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S'More T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Scare Voyager T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Scream Wall T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Scream Wall Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Slip Stream T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Space Ranger T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Spring Break T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Spud Boys T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Stan's Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Stan's Crack Direct Finish T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Stitch in Time T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Stone Harvest T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sunset Boulevard T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Table For Six V4- 6B PG13 |
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Tantrum T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Terrier in Trouble T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Test Tube T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Thin Pockets T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Thin Slivers C2 |
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Toothpick T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Total Eclipse T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Towers Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Turkey and Coke T A3 |
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Twilight Zone C2 |
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Under the Rainbow V1 5 PG13 |
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Unleashed T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Vulture Warfare C2 |
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Water in Motion T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Where’s Jessup, Bugaboo? C2- |
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Whiz Bang T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Womb, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | P1: Tom Martin, Tom Kimbro 1961 (!!!), P2: Eric Janoscrat 1981 |
| Page Views: | 167 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | Andrew Richardson on Mar 13, 2024 |
| Admins: | Stonyman Killough, Luke Cornejo, saxfiend |
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Description
A forgotten Sunset classic! Don't let the R scare you. A climber who has any business on 5.11- trad should have zero issue navigating the moderate runout terrain (5.7 at worst).
Chimney up the wall and pillar to the right of RJ Gold. There's a couple opportunities for gear along the way, so bring tiny microcams for a seam above the chockstone. It's still not terrain to fall on, but it's very classic pure chimney movement with plenty of edges and holds. Before long, you can reach back, grab the juggy pinnacle, and clamber onto the thing for one of the most exposed positions at Sunset.
The step across the gap for pitch 2 (climb it in a single pitch) is airy but easy, and it rewards boldness with bomber gear. Continue up an easy corner crack, clip an oddly placed bolt, then attack the crux to its right.
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