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Routes in Sunset North
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A Sense of Adventure T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Alpha Omega T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ambidextrous T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Another Fallen Angel T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Arena, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Banshee T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R |
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Beginner's Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Bill's Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bolt Pinnacle T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Boulderer Of Fortune T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Broemel's Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Broken Arrow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Bubble Bath T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Caught Red-handed T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C2 |
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Cobb, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Copperhead T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cornerstone T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Cranial Reconstruction T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Crazy Eights T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Diamond, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Dire Straights T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Doberman's T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Drainpipe, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Erroneous Zone, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Euphoria T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Fault Line T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Flagstone T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Flute Loops T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Fool's Gold T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Friday the Thirteenth T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ghost Dancers T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Golden Ledges T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Grand Cave, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Great White Fright T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Harassic Park (aka Devil Dog) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Heavy Hands T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hit the Slopers T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Horribilus Maximus T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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In the Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Infidel Zombies T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Inside Moves T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Invisible Touch T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Jams and Shams T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Jefferson Airplane T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Jennifer's World T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Jungle Gym T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lefthand Crack T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Lichen to Lose It T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Mineral Fright T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Moccasin Bend T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A2 |
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More Fun with Dick and Jane T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Nuclear Blue T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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One-Ten T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Peace and Tranquility T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pearl, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Power Ranger T 5.14 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b R |
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Prisoners of Zenda T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Prow, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Puppy Rodeo T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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R.J. Gold T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rattlesnake Route T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Righthand Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Rusty's Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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S'More T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Scare Voyager T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Scream Wall T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Scream Wall Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Slip Stream T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Space Ranger T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Spring Break T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Spud Boys T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Stan's Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Stan's Crack Direct Finish T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Stitch in Time T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Stone Harvest T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sunset Boulevard T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Table For Six V4- 6B PG13 |
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Tantrum T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Terrier in Trouble T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Test Tube T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Thin Pockets T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Thin Slivers C2 |
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Toothpick T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Total Eclipse T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Towers Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Turkey and Coke T A3 |
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Twilight Zone C2 |
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Under the Rainbow V1 5 PG13 |
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Unleashed T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Vulture Warfare C2 |
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Water in Motion T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Where’s Jessup, Bugaboo? C2- |
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Whiz Bang T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Womb, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | Rob Robinson, '78 |
| Page Views: | 4,701 total · 36/month |
| Shared By: | Blake Allen Green on Apr 27, 2014 |
| Admins: | Stonyman Killough, Luke Cornejo, saxfiend |
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Description
A southern style trad route quintessential to the aspiring hardman/woman's ticklist. Comitting, safe, and with hard slab and steep roof in one pitch.
This route climbs like multiple stacked boulder problems separated by good rests. Begin up the white face protecting with .3-.75 sized pieces. The initial section is deceptively pumpy, so don't underestimate the bottom 40'. This technical crux ends when you grab the huge ledge, or else log some huge flight time for missing it. Rest, then make some cool lock off moves until you find the huge jug over the roof. Summon your courage and cut feet in what could be the most exposed move at Sunset! Once you reestablish, fight the pump through steep southern jug climbing and top out the huge ledge at the top of the wall.
Classic.
This route climbs like multiple stacked boulder problems separated by good rests. Begin up the white face protecting with .3-.75 sized pieces. The initial section is deceptively pumpy, so don't underestimate the bottom 40'. This technical crux ends when you grab the huge ledge, or else log some huge flight time for missing it. Rest, then make some cool lock off moves until you find the huge jug over the roof. Summon your courage and cut feet in what could be the most exposed move at Sunset! Once you reestablish, fight the pump through steep southern jug climbing and top out the huge ledge at the top of the wall.
Classic.
Location
This route is just left of and shares anchors with Stitchin' Time. It is the blunt white arete about 100' right of the R J Gold/Jefferson Airplane area.
Protection
Doubles in Purple metolius through #2 C4, a quickdraw for the bolt. Near the top, you can protect the end with either 00 Metolius or a #4 C4. Have lots of 24" slings, as the gear does not place in a naturally straight line. Occasionally, long falls are possible, but in these cases the falls are clean and pretty safe from obstructions or ground fall potential.
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