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Routes in Sunset North

A Sense of Adventure T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Alpha Omega T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ambidextrous T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Another Fallen Angel T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Arena, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Banshee T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Beginner's Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bill's Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Broemel's Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Broken Arrow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bubble Bath T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cobb, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Copperhead T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cornerstone T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crazy Eights T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Diamond, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Fault Line T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Flagstone T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Flute Loops T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fool's Gold T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Friday the Thirteenth T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ghost Dancers T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Golden Ledges T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Grand Cave, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Harassic Park (aka Devil Dog) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Heavy Hands T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hit the Slopers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Horribilus Maximus T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
In the Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jams and Shams T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jefferson Airplane T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jennifer's World T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Jungle Gym T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lefthand Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lichen to Lose It T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Mineral Fright T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
More Fun with Dick and Jane T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Nuclear Blue T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
One-Ten T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Peace and Tranquility T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Prisoners of Zenda T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Prow, The T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
R.J. Gold T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Righthand Crack T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rusty's Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
S'More T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scare Voyager T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Scream Wall T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Scream Wall Direct T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Slip Stream T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Space Ranger T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Spring Break T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stan's Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stan's Crack Direct Finish T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stitch in Time T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sunset Boulevard T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tantrum T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Terrier in Trouble T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Test Tube T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thin Pockets T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Toothpick T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Total Eclipse T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Towers Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Water in Motion T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Womb, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Rob Robinson, '78
Page Views: 1,211 total, 27/month
Shared By: Blake Allen Green on Apr 27, 2014
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


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Description

A southern style trad route quintessential to the aspiring hardman/woman's ticklist. Comitting, safe, and with hard slab and steep roof in one pitch.

This route climbs like multiple stacked boulder problems separated by good rests. Begin up the white face protecting with .3-.75 sized pieces. The initial section is deceptively pumpy, so don't underestimate the bottom 40'. This technical crux ends when you grab the huge ledge, or else log some huge flight time for missing it. Rest, then make some cool lock off moves until you find the huge jug over the roof. Summon your courage and cut feet in what could be the most exposed move at Sunset! Once you reestablish, fight the pump through steep southern jug climbing and top out the huge ledge at the top of the wall.

Classic.

Location

This route is just left of and shares anchors with Stitchin' Time. It is the blunt white arete about 100' right of the R J Gold/Jefferson Airplane area.

Protection

Doubles in Purple metolius through #2 C4, a quickdraw for the bolt. Near the top, you can protect the end with either 00 Metolius or a #4 C4. Have lots of 24" slings, as the gear does not place in a naturally straight line. Occasionally, long falls are possible, but in these cases the falls are clean and pretty safe from obstructions or ground fall potential.

Photos

Just... No. Jun 26, 2017
ATX
 
ATX  
 
Few climbs approach the brilliance this test piece offers. With few exceptions, you will no longer rate other climbs 4 stars after deciphering this beast.

SPOILER BETA BELOW!
Protection is awkward in a few spots:
-Just above the start there's ground potential during the first mini-crux if you don't set everything up just right.**
-Just before the sustained crux peaks, you'll have to decide whether you want to keep a good hand or place gear. Skipping this placement is a clean fall, but is WELL above your last protection.
-Definitely bring a larger #4 C4 cam for the top. ChattTRAD suggests a 00 TCU will work instead, but that's insanity. You'll thank yourself for hauling all that extra weight.
-Make sure to use a long sling on the high ledge placement; a 1 meter sling suffices, but will cause considerable rope drag. A 2 meter sling is ideal.
-The anchors are 10 feet back from the edge.

  • **How to not deck at the start: Step up off the starting ledge on two good footholds. Place a #6 BD hex directly overhead in a constriction, then place a 0.4" BD cam 2' to the left (just right of a flat rail). By themselves, these are marginal placements, but when tied together with an equalized sling they are bomber. This is the last gear you'll get through the first mini-crux.
Jun 26, 2017