Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Rob Robinson, '78
Page Views: 1,624 total · 28/month
Shared By: Blake Allen Green on Apr 27, 2014
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


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Description

A southern style trad route quintessential to the aspiring hardman/woman's ticklist. Comitting, safe, and with hard slab and steep roof in one pitch.

This route climbs like multiple stacked boulder problems separated by good rests. Begin up the white face protecting with .3-.75 sized pieces. The initial section is deceptively pumpy, so don't underestimate the bottom 40'. This technical crux ends when you grab the huge ledge, or else log some huge flight time for missing it. Rest, then make some cool lock off moves until you find the huge jug over the roof. Summon your courage and cut feet in what could be the most exposed move at Sunset! Once you reestablish, fight the pump through steep southern jug climbing and top out the huge ledge at the top of the wall.

Classic.

Location

This route is just left of and shares anchors with Stitchin' Time. It is the blunt white arete about 100' right of the R J Gold/Jefferson Airplane area.

Protection

Doubles in Purple metolius through #2 C4, a quickdraw for the bolt. Near the top, you can protect the end with either 00 Metolius or a #4 C4. Have lots of 24" slings, as the gear does not place in a naturally straight line. Occasionally, long falls are possible, but in these cases the falls are clean and pretty safe from obstructions or ground fall potential.

Photos

ATX
 
ATX  
 
Few climbs approach the brilliance this test piece offers. With few exceptions, you will no longer rate other climbs 4 stars after deciphering this beast.

SPOILER BETA BELOW!
Protection is awkward in a few spots:
-Just above the start there's ground potential during the first mini-crux if you don't set everything up just right.**
-Just before the sustained crux peaks, you'll have to decide whether you want to keep a good hand or place gear. Skipping this placement is a clean fall, but is WELL above your last protection.
-Definitely bring a larger #4 C4 cam for the top. ChattTRAD suggests a 00 TCU will work instead, but that's insanity. You'll thank yourself for hauling all that extra weight.
-Make sure to use a long sling on the high ledge placement; a 1 meter sling suffices, but will cause considerable rope drag. A 2 meter sling is ideal.
-The anchors are 10 feet back from the edge.

  • **How to not deck at the start: Step up off the starting ledge on two good footholds. Place a #6 BD hex directly overhead in a constriction, then place a 0.4" BD cam 2' to the left (just right of a flat rail). By themselves, these are marginal placements, but when tied together with an equalized sling they are bomber. This is the last gear you'll get through the first mini-crux.
Jun 26, 2017
Blake Allen Green  
  5.12-
Just... No. Jun 26, 2017