Type: Trad, 90 ft (27 m)
FA: Rob Robinson, '78
Page Views: 3,230 total · 41/month
Shared By: Blake Allen Green on Apr 27, 2014
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


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Description

A southern style trad route quintessential to the aspiring hardman/woman's ticklist. Comitting, safe, and with hard slab and steep roof in one pitch.

This route climbs like multiple stacked boulder problems separated by good rests. Begin up the white face protecting with .3-.75 sized pieces. The initial section is deceptively pumpy, so don't underestimate the bottom 40'. This technical crux ends when you grab the huge ledge, or else log some huge flight time for missing it. Rest, then make some cool lock off moves until you find the huge jug over the roof. Summon your courage and cut feet in what could be the most exposed move at Sunset! Once you reestablish, fight the pump through steep southern jug climbing and top out the huge ledge at the top of the wall.

Classic.

Location

This route is just left of and shares anchors with Stitchin' Time. It is the blunt white arete about 100' right of the R J Gold/Jefferson Airplane area.

Protection

Doubles in Purple metolius through #2 C4, a quickdraw for the bolt. Near the top, you can protect the end with either 00 Metolius or a #4 C4. Have lots of 24" slings, as the gear does not place in a naturally straight line. Occasionally, long falls are possible, but in these cases the falls are clean and pretty safe from obstructions or ground fall potential.

Photos