GPS: 34.999, -85.355 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 85,603 total · 513/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Nov 23, 2006 with 3 Suggestions
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

Description

Home of some of the earliest routes at Sunset. Classics include Bill's Route (5.8), Rusty's Crack (5.10a/b) and Jefferson Airplane (5.10a).

Getting There

Take the trail down from the small parking lot at the top. When you come to the main cliffline trail, go right to Sunset North.

An alternative approach (with much better parking) is the trail from below the cliff, which starts at the Craven house. Follow this trail up for a little over a mile until you pass the park service kiosk; shortly after this, you'll be at the furthest end of the Sunset North climbs.

73 Total Climbs

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Location: Sunset North Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Sunset North

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 91
One-Ten
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 68
Slip Stream
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 73
Bill's Route
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 84
Stan's Crack
Trad 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 45
Broemel's Route
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 73
S'More
Trad, TR
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 60
More Fun with Dick and Jane
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 84
R.J. Gold
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 41
Bubble Bath
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 34
Stan's Crack Direct Finish
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 64
Jefferson Airplane
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 43
Broken Arrow
Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 67
Rusty's Crack
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 35
Scream Wall
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 35
Flagstone
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
One-Ten
 91
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Slip Stream
 68
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Bill's Route
 73
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Stan's Crack
 84
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Broemel's Route
 45
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
S'More
 73
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
More Fun with Dick and Jane
 60
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad
R.J. Gold
 84
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Bubble Bath
 41
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Stan's Crack Direct Finish
 34
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Jefferson Airplane
 64
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Broken Arrow
 43
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Rusty's Crack
 67
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad
Scream Wall
 35
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Flagstone
 35
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
More Classic Climbs in Sunset North »

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