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Routes in Sunset North

A Sense of Adventure T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Alpha Omega T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ambidextrous T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Another Fallen Angel T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Arena, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Banshee T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Beginner's Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bill's Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Broemel's Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Broken Arrow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bubble Bath T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cobb, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Copperhead T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cornerstone T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crazy Eights T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Diamond, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Fault Line T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Flagstone T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flute Loops T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fool's Gold T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Friday the Thirteenth T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ghost Dancers T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Golden Ledges T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Grand Cave, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Harassic Park (aka Devil Dog) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Heavy Hands T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hit the Slopers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Horribilus Maximus T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
In the Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jams and Shams T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jefferson Airplane T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jennifer's World T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Jungle Gym T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lefthand Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lichen to Lose It T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Mineral Fright T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
More Fun with Dick and Jane T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Nuclear Blue T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
One-Ten T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Peace and Tranquility T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Prisoners of Zenda T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Prow, The T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
R.J. Gold T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Righthand Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rusty's Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
S'More T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scare Voyager T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Scream Wall T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Scream Wall Direct T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Slip Stream T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Space Ranger T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Spring Break T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stan's Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stan's Crack Direct Finish T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stitch in Time T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sunset Boulevard T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tantrum T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Terrier in Trouble T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Test Tube T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thin Pockets T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Toothpick T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Total Eclipse T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Towers Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Water in Motion T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Womb, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Description [Edit]

Home of some of the earliest routes at Sunset. Classics include Bill's Route (5.8), Rusty's Crack (5.10a/b) and Jefferson Airplane (5.10a).

Getting There [Edit]

Take the trail down from the small parking lot at the top. When you come to the main cliffline trail, go right to Sunset North.

An alternative approach (with much better parking) is the trail from below the cliff, which starts at the Craven house. Follow this trail up for a little over a mile until you pass the park service kiosk; shortly after this, you'll be at the furthest end of the Sunset North climbs.

65 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Sunset North

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 71
One-Ten
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 45
Slip Stream
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 54
Bill's Route
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 64
Stan's Crack
Trad 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 30
Broemel's Route
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 57
S'More
Trad
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 43
More Fun with Dick and Jane
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 65
R.J. Gold
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 22
Stan's Crack Direct Finish
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 49
Jefferson Airplane
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 34
Broken Arrow
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 53
Rusty's Crack
Trad
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 28
Scream Wall
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 26
Flagstone
Trad
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 7
Jennifer's World
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
One-Ten
 71
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Slip Stream
 45
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Bill's Route
 54
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Stan's Crack
 64
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Broemel's Route
 30
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
S'More
 57
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
More Fun with Dick and Jane
 43
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad
R.J. Gold
 65
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Stan's Crack Direct Finish
 22
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Jefferson Airplane
 49
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Broken Arrow
 34
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Rusty's Crack
 53
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Scream Wall
 28
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Flagstone
 26
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Jennifer's World
 7
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Trad
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