Description

Home of some of the earliest routes at Sunset. Classics include Bill's Route (5.8), Rusty's Crack (5.10a/b) and Jefferson Airplane (5.10a).

Getting There

Take the trail down from the small parking lot at the top. When you come to the main cliffline trail, go right to Sunset North.

An alternative approach (with much better parking) is the trail from below the cliff, which starts at the Craven house. Follow this trail up for a little over a mile until you pass the park service kiosk; shortly after this, you'll be at the furthest end of the Sunset North climbs.

66 Total Climbs

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Location: Sunset North Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Sunset North

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 77
One-Ten
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 53
Slip Stream
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 58
Bill's Route
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 68
Stan's Crack
Trad 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 32
Broemel's Route
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 62
S'More
Trad
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 49
More Fun with Dick and Jane
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 69
R.J. Gold
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 25
Stan's Crack Direct Finish
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 52
Jefferson Airplane
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 37
Broken Arrow
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 57
Rusty's Crack
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 30
Scream Wall
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 27
Flagstone
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 12
Cornerstone
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
One-Ten
 77
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Slip Stream
 53
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Bill's Route
 58
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Stan's Crack
 68
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Broemel's Route
 32
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
S'More
 62
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
More Fun with Dick and Jane
 49
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad
R.J. Gold
 69
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Stan's Crack Direct Finish
 25
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Jefferson Airplane
 52
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Broken Arrow
 37
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Rusty's Crack
 57
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Scream Wall
 30
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Flagstone
 27
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Cornerstone
 12
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
More Classic Climbs in Sunset North »

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