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Routes in Sunset North

A Sense of Adventure T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Alpha Omega T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ambidextrous T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Another Fallen Angel T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Arena, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Banshee T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Beginner's Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bill's Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Broemel's Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Broken Arrow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bubble Bath T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cobb, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Copperhead T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cornerstone T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crazy Eights T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Diamond, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Fault Line T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Flagstone T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Flute Loops T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fool's Gold T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Friday the Thirteenth T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ghost Dancers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Golden Ledges T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Grand Cave, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Harassic Park (aka Devil Dog) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Heavy Hands T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hit the Slopers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Horribilus Maximus T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
In the Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jams and Shams T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jefferson Airplane T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jennifer's World T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Jungle Gym T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lefthand Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lichen to Lose It T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Mineral Fright T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
More Fun with Dick and Jane T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Nuclear Blue T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
One-Ten T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Peace and Tranquility T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Prisoners of Zenda T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Prow, The T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
R.J. Gold T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Righthand Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rusty's Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
S'More T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scare Voyager T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Scream Wall T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Scream Wall Direct T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Slip Stream T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Space Ranger T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Spring Break T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stan's Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stan's Crack Direct Finish T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stitch in Time T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sunset Boulevard T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tantrum T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Terrier in Trouble T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Test Tube T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thin Pockets T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Toothpick T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Total Eclipse T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Towers Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Water in Motion T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Whiz Bang T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Womb, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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GPS: 34.999, -85.355 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: saxfiend on Nov 23, 2006 with updates from drayray and 1 other
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough
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Description

Home of some of the earliest routes at Sunset. Classics include Bill's Route (5.8), Rusty's Crack (5.10a/b) and Jefferson Airplane (5.10a).

Getting There

Take the trail down from the small parking lot at the top. When you come to the main cliffline trail, go right to Sunset North.

An alternative approach (with much better parking) is the trail from below the cliff, which starts at the Craven house. Follow this trail up for a little over a mile until you pass the park service kiosk; shortly after this, you'll be at the furthest end of the Sunset North climbs.

66 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Sunset North

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 77
One-Ten
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 53
Slip Stream
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 58
Bill's Route
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 67
Stan's Crack
Trad 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 32
Broemel's Route
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 61
S'More
Trad
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 48
More Fun with Dick and Jane
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 68
R.J. Gold
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 25
Stan's Crack Direct Finish
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 52
Jefferson Airplane
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 37
Broken Arrow
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 57
Rusty's Crack
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 30
Scream Wall
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 27
Flagstone
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 12
Cornerstone
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
One-Ten
 77
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Slip Stream
 53
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Bill's Route
 58
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Stan's Crack
 67
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Broemel's Route
 32
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
S'More
 61
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
More Fun with Dick and Jane
 48
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad
R.J. Gold
 68
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Stan's Crack Direct Finish
 25
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Jefferson Airplane
 52
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Broken Arrow
 37
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Rusty's Crack
 57
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Scream Wall
 30
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Flagstone
 27
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Cornerstone
 12
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
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