GPS: 34.999, -85.355 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 105,176 total · 594/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Nov 23, 2006 · Updates
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

Description

Home of some of the earliest routes at Sunset. Classics include Bill's Route (5.8), Rusty's Crack (5.10a/b) and Jefferson Airplane (5.10a).

Getting There

Take the trail down from the small parking lot at the top. When you come to the main cliffline trail, go right to Sunset North.

An alternative approach (with much better parking) is the trail from below the cliff, which starts at the Craven house. Follow this trail up for a little over a mile until you pass the park service kiosk; shortly after this, you'll be at the furthest end of the Sunset North climbs.

76 Total Climbs

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Location: Sunset North Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Sunset North

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 101
One-Ten
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 76
Slip Stream
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 78
Bill's Route
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 94
Stan's Crack
Trad 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 53
Broemel's Route
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 81
S'More
Trad, TR
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 68
More Fun with Dick and Jane
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 95
R.J. Gold
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 46
Bubble Bath
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 39
Stan's Crack Direct Finish
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 73
Jefferson Airplane
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 46
Broken Arrow
Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 72
Rusty's Crack
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 41
Scream Wall
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 40
Flagstone
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
One-Ten
 101
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Slip Stream
 76
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Bill's Route
 78
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Stan's Crack
 94
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Broemel's Route
 53
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
S'More
 81
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
More Fun with Dick and Jane
 68
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad
R.J. Gold
 95
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Bubble Bath
 46
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Stan's Crack Direct Finish
 39
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Jefferson Airplane
 73
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Broken Arrow
 46
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Rusty's Crack
 72
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad
Scream Wall
 41
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Flagstone
 40
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
More Classic Climbs in Sunset North »

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