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GPS: 35.0019, -85.35427
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: saxfiend on Nov 23, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Stonyman Killough, Luke Cornejo, saxfiend

Description Suggest change

Home of some of the earliest routes at Sunset. Classics include Bill's Route (5.8), Rusty's Crack (5.10a/b) and Jefferson Airplane (5.10a).

Getting There Suggest change

Climbers must approach via the Bluff Trail from the parking area at the Cravens House. The small parking area at the top of the climbing is 1-hour parking only. Follow the Bluff Trail up for a little over a mile until you pass the park service kiosk; shortly after this, you'll be at the furthest end (climber's left) of the Sunset North climbs.

103 Total Climbs

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Location: Sunset North Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Sunset North

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 143
Stan's Crack
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 172
R.J. Gold
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 69
Stan's Crack Direct Finish
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 133
Jefferson Airplane
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 38
Scream Wall Direct
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 121
Rusty's Crack
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 67
Scream Wall
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 61
Flagstone
Trad
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 35
Cornerstone
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 15
Euphoria
Trad
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 34
Toothpick
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 4
Great White Fright
Trad 2 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 18
The Prow
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 27
Space Ranger
Trad
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 18
Jennifer's World
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Stan's Crack a. The Towers > Towers Main Crag
 143
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
R.J. Gold b. Bolt Pinnacle & Sp…
 172
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Stan's Crack Direct Finish a. The Towers > Towers Main Crag
 69
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Jefferson Airplane b. Bolt Pinnacle & Sp…
 133
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Scream Wall Direct h. Sunset Rock
 38
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad
Rusty's Crack h. Sunset Rock
 121
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Scream Wall h. Sunset Rock
 67
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Flagstone h. Sunset Rock
 61
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Cornerstone b. Bolt Pinnacle & Sp…
 35
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Euphoria h. Sunset Rock
 15
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Toothpick a. The Towers > Towers Main Crag
 34
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Great White Fright d. Jennifer's World
 4
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad 2 pitches
The Prow h. Sunset Rock
 18
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Space Ranger b. Bolt Pinnacle & Sp…
 27
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Jennifer's World d. Jennifer's World
 18
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in Sunset North »

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