Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Bill Smith and Steve Jones - 1977
Page Views: 3,993 total · 28/month
Shared By: Danny Inman on May 6, 2007
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


58 Opinions

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Description

This route begins just left of Jefferson Airplane. Follow the left-leaning crack to the prominent roof. Negotiate this (crux) and climb the steep corner and face to a two-bolt anchor.

Location

Same as Jefferson Airplane.

Protection

Standard rack, thin wires and tcu's protect the crux.

Photos

saxfiend
Decatur, GA
  5.8+
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
  5.8+
Great lead! Stays on you most of the way. The squeeze V-slot is an interesting problem to solve. Jul 8, 2007
the vslot would be an interesting lead for a 5.8 leader; its pretty awkward or i suck at vslots; hard to tell Sep 1, 2008
Joey Wolfe
  5.8
Joey Wolfe  
  5.8
The V-slot, once your back is in, is a no hands rest. So don't let it intimidate you. It is awkward to get into and out of, but just relax and THINK. I thought it was just a touch PG-13 in a couple of places, typical Sunset finish. Sep 21, 2008
TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
 
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
 
Better gear out left at crux is bigger and reduces rope drag when extended. Relieved to find it. Heady old school 5.8! Jun 2, 2009
Ben Hogan
Chattanooga, TN
 
Ben Hogan   Chattanooga, TN
 
Somehow managed to get a red BD stopper stuck about 3/4 the way up in a hole. Was running on tight schedule and had to leave it, if anyone gets it out and feels like they need to return it :) ... just PM me. Great climb by the way. Jul 4, 2009
cshuey77 shuey
Asheviile,nc
 
cshuey77 shuey   Asheviile,nc
 
v slot would climb easier if the gear was a little better. May 27, 2010
J W
Las Vegas, NV
  5.8
J W   Las Vegas, NV
  5.8
a microstopper protects the slot nicely- a #4 or something like that is bomber.

also, for those folks who are a little spooked by the slot- you dont actually climb it- you face climb up and left, only marginally entering it, but never actually needing to climb it.

a great route! Oct 25, 2010