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Routes in Sunset North

A Sense of Adventure T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Alpha Omega T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ambidextrous T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Another Fallen Angel T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Arena, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Banshee T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Beginner's Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bill's Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Broemel's Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Broken Arrow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bubble Bath T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cobb, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Copperhead T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cornerstone T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crazy Eights T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Diamond, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Fault Line T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Flagstone T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Flute Loops T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fool's Gold T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Friday the Thirteenth T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ghost Dancers T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Golden Ledges T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Grand Cave, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Harassic Park (aka Devil Dog) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Heavy Hands T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hit the Slopers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Horribilus Maximus T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
In the Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jams and Shams T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jefferson Airplane T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jennifer's World T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Jungle Gym T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lefthand Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lichen to Lose It T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Mineral Fright T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
More Fun with Dick and Jane T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Nuclear Blue T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
One-Ten T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Peace and Tranquility T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Prisoners of Zenda T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Prow, The T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
R.J. Gold T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Righthand Crack T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rusty's Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
S'More T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scare Voyager T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Scream Wall T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Scream Wall Direct T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Slip Stream T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Space Ranger T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Spring Break T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stan's Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stan's Crack Direct Finish T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stitch in Time T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sunset Boulevard T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tantrum T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Terrier in Trouble T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Test Tube T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thin Pockets T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Toothpick T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Total Eclipse T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Towers Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Water in Motion T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Womb, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,643 total, 20/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Nov 23, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


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Description

A devious climb with a tough start, Slip Stream is a true sandbag for its 5.6 rating in the DCA. Excellent protection makes up for committing moves in some sections, especially down low. This is NOT a good choice for a beginning leader.

Start at a crack in a right-facing corner. Move up and left to a left-facing corner, then continue up to mantel onto a slopy ledge. Continue up the face, passing the Bubble Bath anchors on your right, to finish at anchors at the top of the cliff.

Location

Starts 10' left of Bubble Bath.

Protection

Small to medium gear -- nuts, cams, hexes. Bolted anchors

Photos

Tim Bryant
Portland, OR
Tim Bryant   Portland, OR
First trad lead! Do it. May 9, 2014
Cres Simpson
Cambridge, MA
  5.7
Cres Simpson   Cambridge, MA
  5.7
The bottom part of this climb is pump-y to protect which was very surprising for a 5.6 -- that said, I don't think the moves actually go at any harder than 5.7 if you're not pumping out trying to place gear.

Still agree with above -- not a good choice for a novice leader. Nov 4, 2013
Geissler Golding  
  5.7
In a way I'm kind of glad I didn't read all the comments before I climbed this as it may have made me think there was some hidden difficulty I couldn't see... True the first 2 or 3 moves are non-trivial but with a little patience you can slot a good piece for protection and move through. In the end, I'd suggest you look at the start for yourself and call it at that time.

I found the route quite enjoyable and the spice at the bottom certainly helps the overall flavor! Only thing I regret is not having taken my small and medium hexes... Oct 8, 2012
TKHouse
  5.6
TKHouse  
  5.6
Although the start might be a bit of a challenge, 5.6 would be fairly consistent with other Chattanooga crag ratings (T-Wall comes to mind...).

Very well protected, great climb for the beginner leader to practice some rope drag management as well.

Take it all the way to the top as well, fantastic view! Dec 3, 2010
Justin Dansby
GA
  5.8-
Justin Dansby   GA
  5.8-
Instead of stopping and using the Bubble Bath anchors, continue up the easy face and to the anchors at the very top. You can also get to these anchors from the top of Jams and Shams and setup TR. Mar 31, 2008
Even though it a slight sandbag, don't miss it. The gear is great all the way and if you go to the left most anchors by climbing almost straight up the steeper face, the belay spot is really nice place to enjoy. The face section has big positive holds. Sep 24, 2007
Joey Wolfe
  5.7+
Joey Wolfe  
  5.7+
This climb is stiffer than the guide book , but the crux of the climb is right off the ground. spot the leader and then it is a cruise to the top. Aug 18, 2007
Jethro Bodine-Clampett
Hixson, Tn
  5.8
Jethro Bodine-Clampett   Hixson, Tn
  5.8
I've seen 5.10 leaders freak on the first 30 ft. of this climb. Best to move along if you're really looking for a 6. Dec 26, 2006