More Fun with Dick and Jane
5.9- YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 16 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.6 from 61 votes
Routes in Sunset North
A Sense of Adventure T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Alpha Omega T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Ambidextrous T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R | |
Another Fallen Angel T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Arena, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Banshee T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R | |
Beginner's Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Bill's Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Broemel's Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Broken Arrow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Bubble Bath T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Caught Red-handed T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C2 | |
Cobb, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c | |
Copperhead T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Cornerstone T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Crazy Eights T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R | |
Diamond, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 | |
Fault Line T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c | |
Flagstone T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Flute Loops T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Fool's Gold T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b | |
Friday the Thirteenth T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Ghost Dancers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Golden Ledges T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 | |
Grand Cave, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Harassic Park (aka Devil Dog) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Heavy Hands T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Hit the Slopers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Horribilus Maximus T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
In the Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Infidel Zombies T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Jams and Shams T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Jefferson Airplane T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Jennifer's World T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a | |
Jungle Gym T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Lefthand Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Lichen to Lose It T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 | |
Mineral Fright T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c | |
Moccasin Bend T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A2 | |
More Fun with Dick and Jane T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c | |
Nuclear Blue T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
One-Ten T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Peace and Tranquility T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Prisoners of Zenda T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Prow, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a | |
R.J. Gold T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Righthand Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Rusty's Crack T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b | |
S'More T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Scare Voyager T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 | |
Scream Wall T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Scream Wall Direct T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 | |
Slip Stream T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Space Ranger T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Spring Break T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Stan's Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Stan's Crack Direct Finish T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Stitch in Time T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
Sunset Boulevard T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Tantrum T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b | |
Terrier in Trouble T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Test Tube T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Thin Pockets T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 | |
Thin Slivers C2 | |
Toothpick T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Total Eclipse T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Towers Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c | |
Twilight Zone C2 | |
Vulture Warfare C2 | |
Water in Motion T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Where’s Jessup, Bugaboo? C2- | |
Whiz Bang T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Womb, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
FA: | Forrest Gardner - 1986 (FRA) |
Page Views: | 3,346 total · 22/month |
Shared By: | BirminghamBen on May 19, 2008 |
Admins: | saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough |
Description
Layback and smear up the flake getting good gear as you go, transition into the crack and move up to a good rest on a ledge above. Steel your nerves, get yo' mind right and slip and slide up the slopers and edges until you reach a final slopey rail with poor feet...now, figure out how to let go and clip the rings at the same time...
Location
Located in Sunset North section, 10' left of The Diamond. Start is marked by a big, sweeping flake at the base... Look at the photo.
Protection
Sew it up down low. There is very little gear after the flake/crack. There is one horizontal that will take a pink tricam/0.4 Camalot at chest height once on the small ledge after the crack and another pocket that will take a 00 TCU 5' after that. Then, it is a 25' unprotected run to the top on slopers and edges.
9 Comments