Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Forrest Gardner - 1986 (FRA)
Page Views: 2,374 total · 18/month
Shared By: BirminghamBen on May 19, 2008
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


49 Opinions

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Description

Layback and smear up the flake getting good gear as you go, transition into the crack and move up to a good rest on a ledge above. Steel your nerves, get yo' mind right and slip and slide up the slopers and edges until you reach a final slopey rail with poor feet...now, figure out how to let go and clip the rings at the same time...

Location

Located in Sunset North section, 10' left of The Diamond. Start is marked by a big, sweeping flake at the base... Look at the photo.

Protection

Sew it up down low. There is very little gear after the flake/crack. There is one horizontal that will take a pink tricam/0.4 Camalot at chest height once on the small ledge after the crack and another pocket that will take a 00 TCU 5' after that. Then, it is a 25' unprotected run to the top on slopers and edges.

Photos

Charles Cooper  
  5.9
This was a fun route with lots of variety. Probably pretty close to 5.9, sort of run out beneath the anchors for the leader. May 14, 2013
kyle howe
Knoxville, TN
kyle howe   Knoxville, TN
Anchors accessible from the top. Sep 15, 2013
Cres Simpson
Cambridge, MA
 
Cres Simpson   Cambridge, MA
 
So a word of warning--

I got on this climb this past Sunday (11/3) and took a fall in the bottom flake section when I lost my footing on the lieback in the beginning. I had placed a single very good (to my assessment) #1 C4 shortly before I fell. My #1 managed to pry off a 12"x6"x4" piece of rock off the bottom of the flake and I decked from about 12ft off the ground. The flake was obviously rotten looking at where it broke (there is a line of rotten rock on the inside of the flake) but the rock on the outside is very solid, which leads to it feeling deceptively solid when you try and bang on it / assess it for placing gear.

I'll post a picture of the broken rock when I get a chance. Flakes are always subject to skepticism as to their integrity, but the flake on this route is very commonly utilized for placement and did not seem hollow or suspect to my nonexpert assessment. I would be very careful falling on gear placed on the flake which comprises the first 20 feet or so of the climb. Given that this first 20' is certainly the crux of the route, I would say this route is better left for those very solid at the grade for whom a fall is very unlikely.

Thankfully other than some nasty bruises I wasn't hurt, but I would encourage caution to those looking to get on this climb for whom 5.9 is at or near the top end of their lead range.

FWIW, the upper slab section seemed easy despite the runout if you've had some experience slab climbing. Nov 4, 2013
Chad N
Central California
 
Chad N   Central California
 
+1 on the lower part of the flake. Good #1 size but don't want to fall here. Feels like two flakes though. Lower part is hollow and crap. Then there's a horn/ jug thing and more of the flake above that. That upper part sounded/ felt much better. Jan 1, 2015
Do not place cams until you get to the right arching part of the crack. If you can get into position you will find 2-3 excellent nut placements down low back behind the flack where the rock is solid. Sep 6, 2016
Benandstuff
Winston-Salem, NC
 
Benandstuff   Winston-Salem, NC
 
A really good climb. Use big nuts on the lower flake.

There is a horizontal way out left in the runout section that will take a .4 or a .3, although an offset .3/.4 would do best. Not sure if it would hold a 20 ft fall from the final anchor move, but it's better to try than take an assured 50 ft fall onto lower gear. Apr 10, 2017
Nick Metzger
Chattanooga, TN
  5.9- PG13
Nick Metzger   Chattanooga, TN
  5.9- PG13
Bring a tricam for the top.... Mar 15, 2018
Griffin Ash
Birmingham, AL
Griffin Ash   Birmingham, AL
Nick, is there a pocket for the tricam towards the top? Mar 19, 2018
Nick Metzger
Chattanooga, TN
  5.9- PG13
Nick Metzger   Chattanooga, TN
  5.9- PG13
@Griffin Ash
Out left there's a pocket for a pink or brown (if my memory serves me well) tricam. Wish I would have had one. Without it it's definitely a no fall zone. May 8, 2018