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Routes in Sunset North

A Sense of Adventure T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Alpha Omega T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ambidextrous T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Another Fallen Angel T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Arena, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Banshee T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Beginner's Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bill's Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Broemel's Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Broken Arrow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bubble Bath T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cobb, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Copperhead T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cornerstone T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crazy Eights T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Diamond, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Fault Line T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Flagstone T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Flute Loops T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fool's Gold T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Friday the Thirteenth T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ghost Dancers T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Golden Ledges T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Grand Cave, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Harassic Park (aka Devil Dog) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Heavy Hands T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hit the Slopers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Horribilus Maximus T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
In the Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jams and Shams T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jefferson Airplane T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jennifer's World T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Jungle Gym T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lefthand Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lichen to Lose It T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Mineral Fright T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
More Fun with Dick and Jane T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Nuclear Blue T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
One-Ten T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Peace and Tranquility T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Prisoners of Zenda T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Prow, The T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
R.J. Gold T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Righthand Crack T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rusty's Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
S'More T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scare Voyager T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Scream Wall T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Scream Wall Direct T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Slip Stream T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Space Ranger T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Spring Break T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stan's Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stan's Crack Direct Finish T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stitch in Time T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sunset Boulevard T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tantrum T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Terrier in Trouble T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Test Tube T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thin Pockets T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Toothpick T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Total Eclipse T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Towers Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Water in Motion T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Womb, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Rob Robinson, Greg Collins - 1981
Page Views: 99 total · 1/month
Shared By: Jeff Mekolites on Aug 6, 2007
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


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Description

Motor out a short series of tiered roofs off the ground to a good stance/rest. Layback/jam the finger crack using the arete to the left to reach a horn. Rest. Crimp up to a short dihedral, then wander up the face to the anchors.

Location

Located next to One-Ten, about a 5 minute walk from Sunset Rock proper, look for a short finger crack to the right.

Protection

Thin gear, one bolt (missing), rap rings at the top.

Photos

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TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
 
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
 
There is good gear just left of the horn, "the TCU placement" the guide suggests. I don't think you would deck falling onto that piece. Bring a few larger pieces to protect the first bit of crack at the crux and the slab above. The crack size is pretty easy to see from the ground. Oct 12, 2015
Mason M
Carrollton
Mason M   Carrollton
Do be careful after the horn until you get to the next rest cause if you wall you will deck. It would suck. Jun 7, 2015
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.11a/b
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.11a/b
This route would be VERY dangerous to lead without the bolt- you might not hit the ground, but it'd be very close.

Its a shame the bolts missing- its a great route, even if the crux is height dependent. (sorry short folks- this one's HARD if you're little) Oct 25, 2010

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