Moccasin Bend
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British A2
Avg: 3 from 1 vote
Routes in Sunset North
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Alpha Omega T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Ambidextrous T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R | |
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Beginner's Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Bill's Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Broemel's Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
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Caught Red-handed T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C2 | |
Cobb, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c | |
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Cornerstone T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
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Diamond, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 | |
Fault Line T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c | |
Flagstone T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
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Fool's Gold T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b | |
Friday the Thirteenth T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Ghost Dancers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Golden Ledges T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 | |
Grand Cave, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Harassic Park (aka Devil Dog) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Heavy Hands T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Hit the Slopers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Horribilus Maximus T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
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Jams and Shams T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Jefferson Airplane T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Jennifer's World T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a | |
Jungle Gym T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Lefthand Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Lichen to Lose It T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 | |
Mineral Fright T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c | |
Moccasin Bend T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A2 | |
More Fun with Dick and Jane T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c | |
Nuclear Blue T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
One-Ten T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
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Prow, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a | |
R.J. Gold T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Righthand Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Rusty's Crack T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b | |
S'More T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
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Stan's Crack Direct Finish T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
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Test Tube T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Thin Pockets T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 | |
Thin Slivers C2 | |
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Total Eclipse T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Towers Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c | |
Twilight Zone C2 | |
Vulture Warfare C2 | |
Water in Motion T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Where’s Jessup, Bugaboo? C2- | |
Whiz Bang T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Womb, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Type: | Trad, Aid, 110 ft (33 m) |
FA: | Forrest Gardner and Rob Robinson, February 1980 |
Page Views: | 314 total · 17/month |
Shared By: | Manderson198 on Mar 16, 2019 |
Admins: | saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough |
Description
Really fun route!
Climb a nice handcrack to a two-foot wide ledge. Make some thoughtful and committing moves up to a left-leaning crack. Climb the thin crack to a bulge. Surpass this bulge on the right side, slightly below and to the right of a tree. Sling the tree and rap, or climb to the top via Tower's Chimney-ish. I stayed in the chimney until I made it to a left-facing corner about 15 feet from the top. Sling a tree at the very top. Bask in the amazing topout and view!
NOTE: Robinson guidebook has it mixed free/aid at 5.10+ A2 and 60 feet long, which would have it stopping at a tree on the ledge. I aided the route proper clean at C2+, and chose my own adventure for the remaining 50 feet. I passed my middle mark about 20 feet from the top, but accounting for my anchor at the bottom, I probably only climbed about 10 feet past, on a 60m rope---hence, route length of 110 feet.
Climb a nice handcrack to a two-foot wide ledge. Make some thoughtful and committing moves up to a left-leaning crack. Climb the thin crack to a bulge. Surpass this bulge on the right side, slightly below and to the right of a tree. Sling the tree and rap, or climb to the top via Tower's Chimney-ish. I stayed in the chimney until I made it to a left-facing corner about 15 feet from the top. Sling a tree at the very top. Bask in the amazing topout and view!
NOTE: Robinson guidebook has it mixed free/aid at 5.10+ A2 and 60 feet long, which would have it stopping at a tree on the ledge. I aided the route proper clean at C2+, and chose my own adventure for the remaining 50 feet. I passed my middle mark about 20 feet from the top, but accounting for my anchor at the bottom, I probably only climbed about 10 feet past, on a 60m rope---hence, route length of 110 feet.
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