Type: Trad, Aid, 110 ft
FA: Forrest Gardner and Rob Robinson, February 1980
Page Views: 115 total · 22/month
Shared By: Manderson198 on Mar 16, 2019
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

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Description

Really fun route!

Climb a nice handcrack to a two-foot wide ledge. Make some thoughtful and committing moves up to a left-leaning crack. Climb the thin crack to a bulge. Surpass this bulge on the right side, slightly below and to the right of a tree. Sling the tree and rap, or climb to the top via Tower's Chimney-ish. I stayed in the chimney until I made it to a left-facing corner about 15 feet from the top. Sling a tree at the very top. Bask in the amazing topout and view!

NOTE: Robinson guidebook has it mixed free/aid at 5.10+ A2 and 60 feet long, which would have it stopping at a tree on the ledge. I aided the route proper clean at C2+, and chose my own adventure for the remaining 50 feet. I passed my middle mark about 20 feet from the top, but accounting for my anchor at the bottom, I probably only climbed about 10 feet past, on a 60m rope---hence, route length of 110 feet.

Location

The Towers area at Sunset North. Start ~10 feet right of Thin Slivers, at an obvious hand crack at a tree sticking out of the wall.

Protection

Aid rack. Small nuts, offsets, and ball nuts helpful, along with small cams. A few places where a number 4 C4 is helpful. BD grappling hook is helpful for a move into the left-leaning crack.

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