All Locations > Tennessee > Sunset Park > Sunset North

Moccasin Bend

Name: Moccasin Bend
Rating: 3.0

5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British A2

Routes in Sunset North

L › R R › L A › Z

	A Sense of Adventure T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Alpha Omega T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Ambidextrous T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	Another Fallen Angel T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Arena, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Banshee T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
	Beginner's Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Bill's Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Bolt Pinnacle T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R
	Boulderer Of Fortune T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Broemel's Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Broken Arrow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Bubble Bath T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Caught Red-handed T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C2
	Cobb, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Copperhead T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Cornerstone T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Cranial Reconstruction T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
	Crazy Eights T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Diamond, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Dire Straights T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Doberman's T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Drainpipe, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Erroneous Zone, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
	Euphoria T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Fault Line T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Flagstone T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Flute Loops T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Fool's Gold T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Friday the Thirteenth T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Ghost Dancers T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Golden Ledges T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
	Grand Cave, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Great White Fright T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Harassic Park (aka Devil Dog) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Heavy Hands T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Hit the Slopers T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Horribilus Maximus T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	In the Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Infidel Zombies T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Inside Moves T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Invisible Touch T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Jams and Shams T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Jefferson Airplane T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Jennifer's World T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
	Jungle Gym T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Lefthand Crack T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Lichen to Lose It T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13
	Mineral Fright T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Moccasin Bend T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A2
	More Fun with Dick and Jane T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Nuclear Blue T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	One-Ten T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Peace and Tranquility T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Pearl, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Power Ranger T 5.14 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b R
	Prisoners of Zenda T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Prow, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Puppy Rodeo T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	R.J. Gold T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Rattlesnake Route T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Righthand Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Rusty's Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	S'More T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Scare Voyager T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
	Scream Wall T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Scream Wall Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Slip Stream T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Space Ranger T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Spring Break T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Spud Boys T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Stan's Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Stan's Crack Direct Finish T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Stitch in Time T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Stone Harvest T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Sunset Boulevard T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Table For Six V4- 6B PG13
	Tantrum T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Terrier in Trouble T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Test Tube T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Thin Pockets T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Thin Slivers C2
	Toothpick T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Total Eclipse T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Towers Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Turkey and Coke T A3
	Twilight Zone C2
	Under the Rainbow V1 5 PG13
	Unleashed T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Vulture Warfare C2
	Water in Motion T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Where’s Jessup, Bugaboo? C2-
	Whiz Bang T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Womb, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Order Wrong? Sort Routes

Type:	Trad, Aid, 110 ft (33 m)
FA:	Forrest Gardner and Rob Robinson, February 1980
Page Views:	821 total · 12/month
Shared By:	Manderson198 on Mar 16, 2019
Admins:	Stonyman Killough, Luke Cornejo, saxfiend Page Updates (admin only)

You & This Route

1 Opinions

Your To-Do List: ·

Your Star Rating:
Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change

Your Ticks:Add New Tick

-none-

Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description

Really fun route!

Climb a nice handcrack to a two-foot wide ledge. Make some thoughtful and committing moves up to a left-leaning crack. Climb the thin crack to a bulge. Surpass this bulge on the right side, slightly below and to the right of a tree. Sling the tree and rap, or climb to the top via Tower's Chimney-ish. I stayed in the chimney until I made it to a left-facing corner about 15 feet from the top. Sling a tree at the very top. Bask in the amazing topout and view!

NOTE: Robinson guidebook has it mixed free/aid at 5.10+ A2 and 60 feet long, which would have it stopping at a tree on the ledge. I aided the route proper clean at C2+, and chose my own adventure for the remaining 50 feet. I passed my middle mark about 20 feet from the top, but accounting for my anchor at the bottom, I probably only climbed about 10 feet past, on a 60m rope---hence, route length of 110 feet.

Location

The Towers area at Sunset North. Start ~10 feet right of Thin Slivers, at an obvious hand crack at a tree sticking out of the wall.

Protection

Aid rack. Small nuts, offsets, and ball nuts helpful, along with small cams. A few places where a number 4 C4 is helpful. BD grappling hook is helpful for a move into the left-leaning crack.