Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Rob Robinson, Peter Henley - 1981
Page Views: 1,047 total · 9/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Aug 9, 2009
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Description

Lots of variety on this climb: chimney moves, a roof to pull and tricky face climbing. Not a routine 5.9.

Starting at an obvious chimney, climb up to where the chimney turns into a left-facing corner just below a small roof. Grunt through the roof to a nice ledge, where you can rest and take stock of the thin, bulgey section to come. Finesse past the bulge and continue past a tree ledge to the anchors.

Location

Starts about 15' right of Broken Arrow.

Protection

Mostly small to medium cams and passive pro. Shares anchors with Broken Arrow.

Photos

TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
  5.10b
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
  5.10b
I would not recommend this to a 5.9 leader. The crux gear below the roof is very tricky and not a great stance. I used RP's and a 2.5 tricam. The move over the roof and the next move from the following stances are both not 5.9. The + just means your about to get sandbagged. Felt like both of these moves were just as hard if not harder than it's neighbor Broken Arrow, which is a 10a. Mar 21, 2012
paul.adams.3
Knoxville, TN
paul.adams.3   Knoxville, TN
I agree with Tom. I followed my buddy on this after leading Broken Arrow and I thought the moves here were comparable. The route basically comes down to 2 cruxes, but they are stiff Sep 27, 2016