Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Rob Robinson, Peter Henley - 1981
Page Views: 1,120 total · 9/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Aug 9, 2009
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route

13 Opinions

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Lots of variety on this climb: chimney moves, a roof to pull and tricky face climbing. Not a routine 5.9.

Starting at an obvious chimney, climb up to where the chimney turns into a left-facing corner just below a small roof. Grunt through the roof to a nice ledge, where you can rest and take stock of the thin, bulgey section to come. Finesse past the bulge and continue past a tree ledge to the anchors.


Starts about 15' right of Broken Arrow.


Mostly small to medium cams and passive pro. Shares anchors with Broken Arrow.


Clemson, S.C.
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
I would not recommend this to a 5.9 leader. The crux gear below the roof is very tricky and not a great stance. I used RP's and a 2.5 tricam. The move over the roof and the next move from the following stances are both not 5.9. The + just means your about to get sandbagged. Felt like both of these moves were just as hard if not harder than it's neighbor Broken Arrow, which is a 10a. Mar 21, 2012
Knoxville, TN
paul.adams.3   Knoxville, TN
I agree with Tom. I followed my buddy on this after leading Broken Arrow and I thought the moves here were comparable. The route basically comes down to 2 cruxes, but they are stiff Sep 27, 2016