Type: Trad, 115 ft
FA: Chris Chestnutt, Randy Lane; June 1987
Page Views: 58 total · 14/month
Shared By: J Hollada on Jun 16, 2019
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


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Description

Overlooked and adventurous long climb with a bit of everything that deserves to be more popular.

Climb a left-facing dihedral working right at the roof and pulling around the corner onto the face.
Route find your way up the face by angling right following protection and finding good holds under the lichen. Small to mid-sized gear will be your friend from black alien through #1. Gain intermediate ledge at 3/4 height with smallish tree and single cord as rap station.  
Bypass this on the left and continue up the face into arcing hand crack and upper headwall with a few surprise pockets for gear.  Top-out on flat rock, build an anchor creatively using whatever gear you have left and slinging shrubs and tree.  Bring your partner up and walk off the back side.

Location

Obvious left-facing dihedral a few paces south of Stan's Crack and Toothpick.  Tops out 25' south of Stan's Crack anchors.

Protection

Dihedral is well protected with bigger gear up to #5, can get by up to #3. Face takes everything from black Alien up to #2 and lots of slings. Doubles from .4 to #3 would not be unwelcome.

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