Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: David Broemel, Steve Jones, Bill Smith - 1970s
Page Views: 1,573 total · 11/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Aug 6, 2007
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


32 Opinions

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Description

Broemel's is yet another nice choice from among a high concentration of quality routes in a small section of Sunset North (others include RJ Gold and Jefferson Airplane). The climbing is sustained and stiff for the grade, like so many other Sunset routes, but protection is plentiful.

Broemel's Route has a somewhat awkward roofy start on what the Dixie Cragger politely calls "suspect rock." This leads into a shallow flaring dihedral with a nice hand crack, followed by face climbing and a roof or two, then a headwall finale similar to Bill's Route. As with the other routes in this area, take a moment to relax and enjoy the view of the valley before you lower/rap.

Location

Starts at trailside about 30' left of the Bill's Route/Jefferson Airplane/RJ Gold ledge. Look for a prominent protruding block above a left-facing dihedral/crack system.

Protection

Take a full range up to 3"; some big gear can come in handy. Ring anchors at the top.

Photos

saxfiend
Decatur, GA
  5.8+
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
  5.8+
The rock isn't as nice as on the other nearby classics, but a challenging, fun climb nevertheless. I was wishing for my #4 Camalot in the big crack down low. Tip: traversing to the crack system too low makes it a lot more work. Aug 6, 2007
Joey Wolfe
  5.8+
Joey Wolfe  
  5.8+
a #4 does make the transition into the crack less mental.

There is a small crack a little higher that will take a blue alien if you don't have a #4.

Watch for the large flexing flake, before you exit the crack system for the face to the left, up high. Either bury one down low or as a buddy of mine does (i didn't) put a cam on both sides to pin it. This will make sense when you see it. Jul 15, 2008
Darbley Sterway
Aspen
5.8+
Darbley Sterway   Aspen
5.8+
Fun climb. I think I actually enjoyed this one more than Stan's Crack. Jun 18, 2015
Jordan Simon  
 
Most spots have a #4 walking back or almost tipping out unless you go really far back in the lower crack. A #5 seems more appropriate personally, if you're looking to put a big piece in there. Great climb! May 21, 2017
I agree with Jordan! A #4 right before entering the corner was sloppy slop. One of the best pitches I have climbed in the southeast! Jun 16, 2018