Broemel's Route
5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.8 from 32 votes
Routes in Sunset North
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Beginner's Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Bill's Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Broemel's Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
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S'More T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
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Whiz Bang T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Womb, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Type: | Trad, 100 ft |
FA: | David Broemel, Steve Jones, Bill Smith - 1970s |
Page Views: | 1,573 total · 11/month |
Shared By: | saxfiend on Aug 6, 2007 |
Admins: | saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough |
Description
Broemel's is yet another nice choice from among a high concentration of quality routes in a small section of Sunset North (others include RJ Gold and Jefferson Airplane). The climbing is sustained and stiff for the grade, like so many other Sunset routes, but protection is plentiful.
Broemel's Route has a somewhat awkward roofy start on what the Dixie Cragger politely calls "suspect rock." This leads into a shallow flaring dihedral with a nice hand crack, followed by face climbing and a roof or two, then a headwall finale similar to Bill's Route. As with the other routes in this area, take a moment to relax and enjoy the view of the valley before you lower/rap.
Broemel's Route has a somewhat awkward roofy start on what the Dixie Cragger politely calls "suspect rock." This leads into a shallow flaring dihedral with a nice hand crack, followed by face climbing and a roof or two, then a headwall finale similar to Bill's Route. As with the other routes in this area, take a moment to relax and enjoy the view of the valley before you lower/rap.
Decatur, GA
There is a small crack a little higher that will take a blue alien if you don't have a #4.
Watch for the large flexing flake, before you exit the crack system for the face to the left, up high. Either bury one down low or as a buddy of mine does (i didn't) put a cam on both sides to pin it. This will make sense when you see it. Jul 15, 2008
Aspen