Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: David Broemel, Steve Jones, Bill Smith - 1970s
Page Views: 2,351 total · 14/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Aug 6, 2007
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route

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Broemel's is yet another nice choice from among a high concentration of quality routes in a small section of Sunset North (others include RJ Gold and Jefferson Airplane). The climbing is sustained and stiff for the grade, like so many other Sunset routes, but protection is plentiful.

Broemel's Route has a somewhat awkward roofy start on what the Dixie Cragger politely calls "suspect rock." This leads into a shallow flaring dihedral with a nice hand crack, followed by face climbing and a roof or two, then a headwall finale similar to Bill's Route. As with the other routes in this area, take a moment to relax and enjoy the view of the valley before you lower/rap.


Starts at trailside about 30' left of the Bill's Route/Jefferson Airplane/RJ Gold ledge. Look for a prominent protruding block above a left-facing dihedral/crack system.


Take a full range up to 3"; some big gear can come in handy. Ring anchors at the top.